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Clutch/clutch linkage adjustments

Eric Johnson

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Nov 21, 2021
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Location
Charlotte
Hello,
I have a 70 Road Runner with a 440/4-speed. The original transmission is out of car and in its place is a later overdrive version of the A833 (how I got the car) that I believe came out of a later model Dodge truck (78-93??). The transmission would occasionally have trouble getting into reverse and trouble getting into a forward gear. So, a friend and I replaced the ball studs/bearings, Z bar, springs, etc. Also adjusted the shift rods on the trans to spec. The car then shifted perfectly for about 25 miles. Then the same problem resurfaced with difficulty getting into reverse and forward gears. I was informed that the truck transmission as a different number of splines than the original A833 (23 versus 18??). Don't know if that may be part of the problem.
I am at a loss as what to try next. Any thoughts??

Thank you
 
What kind of shifter do you have? It sounds like a clutch issue, or possibly a gear oil problem. What is the condition of the oil and the type that is in there? The input spline only has to do with the type of clutch disc that you use, both 18 and 23 spline A 833 were available over the years in a Mopar. Make sure that everything is tightened up good.
 
Do you have the same trouble getting it in gear with the enigne running and the engine not running?
 
What kind of shifter do you have? It sounds like a clutch issue, or possibly a gear oil problem. What is the condition of the oil and the type that is in there? The input spline only has to do with the type of clutch disc that you use, both 18 and 23 spline A 833 were available over the years in a Mopar. Make sure that everything is tightened up good.
Thank you. It is a Hurst pistol grip. i believe it is original. the car has less than 1000 miles in the last 8 years. i think the transmission change was performed around 2011-12. i don't see any issues with the oil, but haven't had an oil analysis done. I assume the proper lubricant was used when the change was made.
 
I do. I will check again when the weather clears.
One thing I just remembered. When I have the shifter in neutral and move it left and up to reverse (or, up to first or down to second) it will go partially up/down but not completely. So, i slowly let out the clutch pedal and the engine will begin to stall. I then push the clutch pedal back to prevent stalling. There is no grinding as i expected. Don't know if this information is helpful.....
 
Make sure that there is no slop in your shifter linkages. The holes on the levers may be worn a little and the holes on the shifter arms, a little as well, then maybe the slots on the levers where they bolt to the transmission. All that will add up to enough slop to make it not engage all the way. The tighter the better.
 
Just a suggestion...
Double-check U have the correct Z-bar.. Multiple Mopar Z-bars are of the same mounting width but..
There are different mounting variations of the tab that connects/pushes the adjustment rod back/forth. The adjustment rod should be parallel to the bellhousing or else it will not push the fork in a linear motion...

Just my $0.02...
 
Just a suggestion...
Double-check U have the correct Z-bar.. Multiple Mopar Z-bars are of the same mounting width but..
There are different mounting variations of the tab that connects/pushes the adjustment rod back/forth. The adjustment rod should be parallel to the bellhousing or else it will not push the fork in a linear motion...

Just my $0.02...
Thanks. Excellent suggestion. I ordered the Z-bar based on it being for 68-70 B-bodies. I will double check. Parallel vertically and horizontally? Thanks again.
 
Another thing to look into is that, at least on the 18 spline I worked on, a reverse detent ball that might be missing. I recall having an issue where the transmission wouldn't always shift, and sometimes would. Sort of reminded me of what you said.
 
Thanks. Excellent suggestion. I ordered the Z-bar based on it being for 68-70 B-bodies. I will double check. Parallel vertically and horizontally? Thanks again.
I mentioned it because I experienced that problem on my 70 RoadRunner. I had no idea about any Z-bar differences until the bellhousing stud ball end broke.. When I had the clutch linkage apart I talked to a close friend who is a well-known Mopar guru and he showed me (3) different Z-bars all the same width but the clutch tab was located differenetly on each. Sure enough the Z-bar on the RR when I bought it was incorrect, something that most people would never catch...

Just my $0.02...
 
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