Clutch fork problems

[Conv440]

I am having problems adjusting my clutch engagement. No matter how short or long I make the adjuster the clutch doesn't disengage until the pedal is almost completely up. I'm wondering if I have the wrong clutch fork for this application. I bought a used bellhousing and am using the fork that came with it. I didn't measure it before installation. Are there different throwout bearings, thinner or thicker? The car is a 71 Roadrunner with a 340 and 1980 A833 O/D trans. Thanks again.

 

[AR67GTX]

Just went through this with a friends 69 Hemi Roadrunner who did not have enough adjustment in the clutch linkage to achieve any free play and his lower rod alignment was all wonky. Turned out part of the problem was an aftermarket aluminum bell housing that was fitted with a rubber boot and the boot rubber was so thick the outer end of the fork could not move forward far enough to get the TO bearing off the clutch fingers. Solved that by cutting away a notch in the front of the boot that allowed the fork end to travel forward more.

The other problem was his Z-bar to fork rod ran at a crazy angle. The rod did not run straight back to the fork. Dan Brewer suspected the fork was incorrect for the bell housing and sent him another fork. Comparing the two we could not see any significant difference between them - except the fingers that rest on the TO Bearing on the replacement protruded slightly further forward. But the outer end of the fork looked identical. Not expecting much difference, we put it in anyway and surprise, the rod now runs straight back to the fork end with good alignment. Not sure exactly why it is different but it is.

So, if you have an aluminum bellhousing I would check the boot and contact Brewers Transmissions on the fork to see if it’s correct or not.

 

[Bird 426]

When did this problem start? Did you switch from auto to manual? What year bellhousing? Is the O/D trans a 23 spline?
Does the geometry of your clutch linkage look correct?

 

[Conv440]

Problem has been there since I pulled the 727 and went back to the 4 speed. The car is an original D21. Not sure the year on the bellhousing but it has the larger diameter hole for the large bearing retainer. I'm pretty sure the part number was a 3743859 definitely aluminum. 23 spline O/D from 1980 truck. Here's the angle, I think it could be off.

 

[Bird 426]

Almost seems like a fork/fork pivot issue. Have tried getting hold of Dan Brewer! Your bellcrank/z-bar looks level.

 

[Conv440]

Not yet, that's next. But here's the million dollar question. Can you R&R a clutch fork without removing the tranny?

 

[Bird 426]

Yes, you can change the pivot too. It's just finessing and getting the fork back onto the bearing collar. You could measure your throwout bearing length, but, hard call on all of this without being there. Hopefully Dan recognizes something.

 

[Conv440]

I heard back from Dan and here are the part numbers he provided for using the 859 bellhousing in a 71 B-body:
Fork: 1966-UP B/E, A-BODY BIG BLOCK CLUTCH FORK, NEW - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists
Pivot: 1975-UP OVERDRIVE-FOR SHORT FORK CLUTCH FORK PIVOT - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

 

[AR67GTX]

You can probably pull the fork out without pulling the transmission but I believe it’s virtually impossible to get it hooked back on the TOBearing and pivot with the transmission and bearing in place. Kind of hard to be sure from that one picture but your linkage alignment appears OK. Do you have a fork boot on the BH? If so, I would suggest pulling it and see if you can’t adjust the clutch engagement closer to the floor.

Here is what my Roadrunner friend had to do to fix his.

 

[71Beeper]

Here's what the set-up looks like for a 1971 small block with the regular A833 4 speed.
Here's from the front looking at it.

And here is from the top looking down.

This photo is looking at the 'z' bar from under the car looking forward - it may not be of help to you.

 

[Conv440]

I got a new fork and pivot from Brewers. The fork I had was 12" long which was the issue. The correct one is 11". I was able to install the new pivot and fork without removing the tranny. It wasn't easy because I have big hands but I was able to get it done with a lot of fiddling around. I mounted the fork on the pivot and then installed as a unit. I don't know if it would be possible to put the pivot on first and then install the fork.

 

[Bird 426]

Yes, you can install the pivot, then the fork. That's usually the easy part, sliding the fork into place and getting the fork into the springs at the throwout bearing is the fun part! So, did this solve your problem?

 

[Conv440]

Yes, clutch is working as it should. Time to make some doughnuts.