Clutch

[Skychief]

Can anyone recommend the type/manufacturer of the clutch I should buy for my 1969 Charger R/T 440 that will be pushing close to 500HP that they had or are having luck with? There seems to be so many options out there. I rather stick with car drivers that had first hand experience with theirs.
Thanks in advance

 

[Bighouse]

Not a mopar- but I just put a Zoom in my big block 455 olds. Purely based on price, but it works nicely. And it’s a heavy, nasty car with wide tires.

 

[rmchrgr]

Do you want a diaphragm type or B&B/three finger? HP rating probably doesn't matter too much if you buy a brand name and you're not power shifting it every time you take the car out.

All the manly men will say three finger all the way but I prefer the diaphragm for regular driving. The pedal action is linear and smooth - no "hitch" after the first little push like with a three finger and an over center spring. In fact, the over center spring is removed with a diaphragm clutch.

I drove a McLeod 10.5" diaphragm clutch on the street behind a milder 383 for thousands of miles and I loved it. ZERO problems with it. I would suggest a hydraulic throwout bearing too to eliminate the clutch linkage but that's just personal choice.

Also, I recommend buying from Brewer's they are the best. McCleod Super Street Clutch.

 

[Texas97]

i dont know why they arent recommended more but Centerforce Dual Friction clutches are just awesome. i put 250k miles on one of my trucks years ago, AX15 5 speed.

i would assume it would be equally good with an A833. Brewers sells them.

 

[rmchrgr]

Nothing "wrong" or hard to operate with a 3 finger clutch. It doesn't need to be so rigid to need a weightlifters left leg. I run 3 finger clutches all the time. It's what these mopars were made to use.

Yes call brewers for parts, great advice.

I didn't mean to say there was anything wrong or hard about a three finger clutch but there is a difference in pedal feel with a diaphragm clutch. I'd say that's mostly due to the over center spring. I don't believe one style is better than the other, I'm just pointing out that there is a difference for someone that may not be aware of it.

At the same time I used a hydraulic throwout bearing with my 4 speed so again, it's all about what the driver prefers or doesn't.

 

[Bird 426]

If you should decide to go hydraulic, go RAM diaphragm, they disengage in a shorter window. I made the mistake with a new swap when I installed my hydraulic clutch and had to switch to the RAM. Now I have a couple of spare Centerforce clutches.

 

[rmchrgr]

If you should decide to go hydraulic, go RAM diaphragm, they disengage in a shorter window. I made the mistake with a new swap when I installed my hydraulic clutch and had to switch to the RAM. Now I have a couple of spare Centerforce clutches.

Not saying you did something wrong but I'm just clarifying - are you sure that "shorter window" was definitely due to the clutch itself or could it have been the hydraulic release bearing setup?

Hydraulic release bearings need to be set up in a specific way which involve using shims to get a desired distance from the fingers. It's like disc brake pistons - they're supposed to keep very light contact (drag) with the rotors but only "grab" when the pedal is depressed and hydraulic force is applied to the backs of the pistons forcing them out towards the friction surface. Same idea with a hydraulic release bearing. If you had too big or too little of a gap that would affect the timing (or window) of the clutch release.

Just throwing that out there because the physical clutch dimensions shouldn't really deviate too far between different manufacturers of the same part. In fact, I'd be willing to bet that most aftermarket clutches are made by a handful of larger anonymous manufacturers which then get sold under various names. A lot of stuff is like that now.

But back to the original post. We don't know if the O.P. has or wants a hydraulic release bearing anyway so this stuff might not even be relevant. Again, I'd say you can't go wrong with any brand name unit as long as it's appropriate for your application, gets installed properly and isn't asked to do more than it's designed to handle.

Or just make it easy on yourself - call Brewer's and ask them for a recommendation and report back here with what they suggest.

 

[coloradodave]

Hate to say it but this subject has been covered many times on this site. Do a search. No need to beat a dead horse. I also use a CenterForce clutch and a hydraulic T/O bearing. If I need another one I'd buy the same set-up...

 

[AR67GTX]

RAM or McLeod

 

[toolmanmike]

Contact Brewer Preformance.

 

[Bird 426]

I don't know, I did not mix match the hydraulic clutch and throwout bearing, same source that mfr's and sells it. Yes, I believe that I have it shimmed correctly. When given the phone number of a representative of RAM, I asked if this was a common problem with hydraulic clutches, his response was, yes. It took care of my problem. Glad that you had good luck with the Centerforce, I did not.
Do not care to argue about it, we all seem to have our own little issues.

 

[rmchrgr]

I don't know, I did not mix match the hydraulic clutch and throwout bearing, same source that mfr's and sells it. Yes, I believe that I have it shimmed correctly. When given the phone number of a representative of RAM, I asked if this was a common problem with hydraulic clutches, his response was, yes. It took care of my problem. Glad that you had good luck with the Centerforce, I did not.
Do not care to argue about it, we all seem to have our own little issues.

I actually used a McLeod brand clutch, not a Centerforce.

Again, I didn't mean for this to veer off into a debate about hydraulic release bearings. Click the link below for the Ram clutch website where they detail potential issues with these types of systems.

Ram clutch hyd. clutch FAQ

 

[dvw]

I have a Centerforce dual friction in my Challenger. Best clutch I've ever owned. Never shudders, shakes, slips. Has about 100 passes with slicks. Street car 12.50@110 in street trim except slicks. If you are going to race it on slicks only, it really should get a race clutch.
Doug

 

[Sinitro]

Today I found out the 3-finger B&B is only available from Ram or Hays...
My preference is being old school I use the 3-finger.
But as posted above the later diaphragm clutch does has lighter pedal pressure. In my RR with a built wedge I chose the
3-finger but got it direct from Ram talked with their tech support very helpful. I got a different combo than their
standard kits sold through Jegs, Summit, Mancini, Brewer...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Cojohnso1]

I have the Centerforce 11" behind a near stock 440 with an A833 18 spline trans. I was skeptical because of old school diaphragm prejudice. But have learned from experience that its a fine clutch. More street able than 3 finger Borg/Beck style. With shorter throw. Its designed to grip tighter as RPM performance is thrown at it. With easier pedal use.

 

[Sinitro]

I have the Centerforce 11" behind a near stock 440 with an A833 18 spline trans. I was skeptical because of old school diaphragm prejudice. But have learned from experience that its a fine clutch. More street able than 3 finger Borg/Beck style. With shorter throw. Its designed to grip tighter as RPM performance is thrown at it. With easier pedal use.

A few years back, based on a recommendation I did install a Centerforce diaphragm in another mopar I owned at the time...
I had really bad results with it...
Chattered badly, even though the flywheel was resurfaced, took it out after 1K miles.
Left a bad taste to me about Centerforce clutches, good it is working for U.

Just my $0.02...

 

[Bird 426]

Before I switched to the hydraulic, I did not really have any issues with the Centerforce diaphragm clutch, two of my cars had their flywheel also. My Dart always had a chatter, even after resurfacing the Centerforce flywheel. Same flywheel with a composite Ram disc and plate and hydraulic set up, the chatter is back. I will just live with it. It only shows up with engine rpm and how fast you let the clutch out, I just drive through it. The other car, an 11" version, I pulled the 4-speed and went auto. I am a retired truck driver, never hard on a clutch. I could go easily on a 20,000 mi oil change without adjusting the clutch. Unlike some of my fellow drivers that you could adjust their clutch every day! No joking! I was told that the difference in release between the Centerforce 3/4" vs the Ram at 1/2". That is why I switched. Otherwise, they are both good companies.

 

[Cojohnso1]

Before I switched to the hydraulic, I did not really have any issues with the Centerforce diaphragm clutch, two of my cars had their flywheel also. My Dart always had a chatter, even after resurfacing the Centerforce flywheel. Same flywheel with a composite Ram disc and plate and hydraulic set up, the chatter is back. I will just live with it. It only shows up with engine rpm and how fast you let the clutch out, I just drive through it. The other car, an 11" version, I pulled the 4-speed and went auto. I am a retired truck driver, never hard on a clutch. I could go easily on a 20,000 mi oil change without adjusting the clutch. Unlike some of my fellow drivers that you could adjust their clutch every day! No joking! I was told that the difference in release between the Centerforce 3/4" vs the Ram at 1/2". That is why I switched. Otherwise, they are both good companies.

I agree you can hardly go wrong choosing either company. Highly recommended. With build 600 HP or less? Easily handled by either technology.

 

[toolmanmike]

Contact Brewer Preformance.