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Coil for Mopar Electronic Ignition?

EngineerDoug

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Hello,

I have installed the Mopar electronic ignition kit on my '68 383 and am chasing a problem. At first it runs fine, but once it warms up it starts to stumble and waver at idle. I have a few things to chase on this issue, but one of them may be the coil.

I am using a cheapo no-name stock replacement coil with the ballast resistor provided in the ignition kit. That's the only part of the system that has not been replaced; can anybody recommend a decent replacement coil (brand) in case I find the coil is bad?

This is not a high rpm, high horsepower application, as the 383 is near stock.

Thanks.
 
Start with the coil for sure. Heating up causes issues, then it cools and all is well. Had one do that years ago. Ohm reading of primary and secondary might not show it either.
 
Hello,

I have installed the Mopar electronic ignition kit on my '68 383 and am chasing a problem. At first it runs fine, but once it warms up it starts to stumble and waver at idle. I have a few things to chase on this issue, but one of them may be the coil.

I am using a cheapo no-name stock replacement coil with the ballast resistor provided in the ignition kit. That's the only part of the system that has not been replaced; can anybody recommend a decent replacement coil (brand) in case I find the coil is bad?

This is not a high rpm, high horsepower application, as the 383 is near stock.

Thanks.
I've had good luck with both the Pertronix Flame Thrower II and MSD Blaster II.
 
The yellow Accel 8140 coil works well, and it is mentioned in several of the old Mopar books as a good match for the electronic ignition when also used with a stock ballast. I have used them with no problem. For looks I paint them black and then stencil the Mopar coil lettering.
 
I agree the coil is worth replacing. I've replaced the plugs, checked the wiring & voltages - all that looks OK. Grounds are new & clean. I see the old plugs were wet with gas - mebbe that suggests inconsistent ignition?
 
In picking a coil for what you are doing in way of set up, primary resistance matters. The 1.4-1.5 ohm resistance is right. Need to look at that if buying a performance coil as they often come in two flavors relative to this...normal resistance and very low.

A few other things to check based on your symptoms...vacuum leak that shows up when warm, particularly around the carb? Tightening the carb and manifold would be good. Your ECU is mounted firmly with regard to a good ground and in a place where it doesn’t get too warm?
 
Also, as I think about it...check the floats in the carb?
 
Carb float levels are OK; it is a new Holley 650. I will check the carb mounting bolts.

Thanks.
 
they sell a spark tester and when it happens if you pull a plug wire and crank it
it should spark well and constant. a proper coil is a good investment.
But I ve seen a rotor semi fail and leak the high voltage to the distributor shaft
so go with a rotor at the same time
 
When I did the the conversion from points to electronic ignition on my 68 Coronet,
I used an ignition coil for a mid 80's Ram Charger.
 
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