• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Compression ratio, how do you change it

Paul_G

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:32 AM
Joined
Dec 24, 2013
Messages
2,098
Reaction score
3,364
Location
Surprise, Arizona
The compression ratio is comprised of several factors, the basics being the volume of the cylinder, the height of the piston, and the thickness of the head gasket right? The volume of the cylinder is basically fixed, as long as you dont do any grinding. The thickness of the head gasket can be chosen. That leaves the piston. How do you choose a piston? What factor in piston choices effect the compression?
 
Height of piston head above the piston pin. From recent reading I’m of the opinion that it’s more difficult to find anything that is set up like the old days. My 440 has stock pistons but they were put in in the late 70’s when they were all still the “stock”(?) height.
 
Would this distance be the compression distance? I see compression distance listed on the summit website for pistons. Then, how much material that has been machined from the block deck must be considered. can these things be measured with basic tools? Or is this machinist work?
 
Would this distance be the compression distance? I see compression distance listed on the summit website for pistons. Then, how much material that has been machined from the block deck must be considered. can these things be measured with basic tools? Or is this machinist work?
Maybe IQ52 or one of the racers will chime in, like Mike or Budnicks...
 
what is your ultimate goal. what kind of compression do you have.
the easiest is shaving the head but depends what motor you have. my slant six had 8 .5 now I'm at 9.5
any higher you need better gas , who knows how they will blend are fuel in the next years.
you might have to buy racing fuel and cut it with that. i shaved . 100 thousands of my head.
 
Paul, if you're talking a stock stroke 440, it is pretty simple. You want a piston with a 1.060 - 1.065" CD. This gives you maximum flexibility in achieving a decent compression ratio and quench. After that you just need to balance the deck machining, gasket thickness and combustion chamber volume. Pretty simple if you're going with aftermarket heads. With the availability of pistons with that CD, and variety of heads available. You can probably hit any desired pump gas friendly compression ratio.

If you go with an open chamber iron head, or a piston with less than 1.060", your path forward becomes more challenging.

Generally speaking, a 1.060" piston will be about 0.020" below in an cut block. If you deck the block to zero deck, and use a 0.040" gasket, you'll be good to go.
 
Last edited:
The engine I am planning for is a 1978 low compression motor home 440. It has 54000 miles. Dont know yet what bore size, staying stock stroke. It runs very well and is super clean inside. I plan on using the PP240 heads with a 78cc volume. Want to shoot for no more than 10.25:1 compression. If I am lucky and the bores are good I would love to just put a higher compression piston in it, no machine work, if possible.
 
What are the costs of new pistons, vs. planing the head to gain compression? Or finding a set of 915 heads at an affordable price?
 
Your chance of the bores being straight and round on a used motor is about Zero. Can you put new standard bore pistons in a worn stock bore, yes. Will the ring seal be proper, no. If this is the case I'd leave the short block alone. You will make more power with increased compression but the motor should be bored to take advantage with proper ring seal. The factors of the piston that affect compression would be; compression height (distance of the piston pin C/L to the top of the flat area of the piston) , dome or dish, and valve notches. The amount of cylinder volume that is reduced by increasing the piston volume is the key.
Doug
 
So then best to have the block decked, aligned, bored over, and get new pistons and rings, plus the gasket and heads work?
 
What are the costs of new pistons, vs. planing the head to gain compression? Or finding a set of 915 heads at an affordable price?
A set of new pistons can run from the $350 range to the $550 range. Plus rings. Good flowing aluminum heads are the key to making 500+ HP. Iron heads won't get there without equaling the cost in machine work, parts and labor. No point in doing that.
 
The compression ratio is comprised of several factors, the basics being the volume of the cylinder, the height of the piston, and the thickness of the head gasket right? The volume of the cylinder is basically fixed, as long as you dont do any grinding. The thickness of the head gasket can be chosen. That leaves the piston. How do you choose a piston? What factor in piston choices effect the compression?

Are you looking for information so you can chose a piston, or did you want someone to choose a piston for you?
 
narrow down the head choice and cc of the heads first
aftermarket heads come in a wide range of ccs
small cc heads would take proper compression height- 2.060+ with a dish
large cc heads you may be able to get there with flat top 2.060+ to get 10:1
easy to find gaskets run .028 to .050
think light pistons unless you're a truck
 
My bad, 2.060" to 2.065". Not 1.060" - 1.065".

The 2235 piston with the TF240, on an uncut block with a .040 - .055" gasket will give you the desired compression ratio and will likely be close enough for balance. But I agree with dvw.
 
Last edited:
Are you looking for information so you can chose a piston, or did you want someone to choose a piston for you?

Information only right now. I havent even tore the engine down yet. I do like to know the process of how things are done before I start a project. I'm kind of **** like that. After I tear it down it is just a pile of parts, until I get it back together and it works as intended.

My bad, 2.060" to 2.065". Not 1.060" - 1.065".

The 2235 piston with the TF240, on an uncut block with a .040 - .055" gasket will give you the desired compression ratio and will likely be close enough for balance. But I agree with Dave.

That makes more sense. I have been playing with the compression ratio calculator on Summit Racings website using specs listed for different pistons they sell and getting numbers in the 14:1 range.
 
Photon you can't cut the open chamber heads enough to make any real difference, and you have to cut the Intake manifold too
we used to weld up the chamber away from the spark plug side- before aluminum heads
or you can use the KB reverse deflector pistons- there are two depending on what compression you want
BS
uncut block and piston 14-20 down the hole and .040- 060 gasket = no quench
stock 6 pack piston and wedge chamber head with .20-28 gasket could work but then compression ratio
we used to take 6 pack piston and mill D Cup- like a chevy "turbo" piston to match the chamber on the 915 and other wedge chambers- easy to get 9:1 to 11:1 depending on what you are looking for today substitute Aluminum (check the ccs) for 915 unless you can do your own seat and guide work
 
In generic terms the compression ratio is the total cylinder volume with piston at bottom dead center divided by the volume above the piston at TDC.
Using a 440 as an example:
The block height from crankshaft centerline to the top of the deck surface is "speified" to be 10.725". It is unlikely the true deck height is "exactly" that measurement, but it gives a starting point of how much length the crank stroke, connecting rod and piston and take up.
Again as an example, stock 440 crank with 3.75" stroke, when at TDC is 1/2 the stroke length, or 1.875" (at center of pin). To have the top of the piston at zero deck height the rod length + piston pin to top of piston combined needs to be 10.725" - 1.875" = 8.850" or less or the piston top will be above the top of the engine block at TDC.
The specified 440 rod length (center of crank pin to center of piston pin) is 6.768", but again this may vary slightly and is used to get an estimate for our calculations. Subtracting the rod length, 8.850" - 6.768" = 2.082". This would be from the center of the piston pin to the top of the engine deck. A piston with 2.082" would theoretically pit the piston at zero deck height at TDC. I'm just mentioning these measurements because they come in handy when working out stroker engine combinations.
Looking at some common piston compression heights (center of pin to top of piston, but not including dome if equipped), a stock low compression piston has a height of 1.912". This would result in the piston being 0.170" below the engine deck at TDC. This additional volume would be added to the volume above the piston that is used to divide the total volume from, resulting in a lower compression ratio.
Many performance 440 pistons have a compression height greater than 2.06x", an example with a higher height would be the Keith black pistons with a 2.067", which if the block height and rod length were "spec", sit just 0.015" below the engine deck.
Note that the engine block deck may not be at spec, and it also may not be square to the Crank center line. This can cause different values front to back and side to side.
I usually have the machine shop "square" deck the block so all these distances are equal.
The piston to deck and gasket thickness also are used to calculate "quench" distance between the piston top and cylinder head. With a closed chamber head and flat top pistons, it is pretty easy to calculate, but with open chamber heads and dome or reverse dome "quench" pistons you have to account for the chamber to head deck and the dome clearance.
This is just showing how piston height can change compression ratio, but also starts to show the total stack up of what will actually fit in the block.
You could use different rod lengths to change where the piston sits at TDC relative to the block deck, This would be the same as changing piston height at far as calculating compression, the the change in rod length will also change the rod to crank ratio. Not going to get into that as were talking really small changes, but it does change things besides the compression ratio.
There is also the case of using s shorter piston or rod, and using a longer stroke crank. This makes a big difference in compression ratio (and some changes to rod ratio), because now the piston swept volume has changed (The engines displacement), not just where the piston sits relative to block deck height.

So... Getting to the calculating of compression.
Compression is Total cylinder volume / Volume above the piston at TDC.
Total cylinder volume is piston swept volume + Volume above the piston at TDC
The formula for the volume of a cylinder is V = pi * radius^2 * height.
The swept volume is just the volume that the piston displaces from TDC to BDC, so in the equation, V = 3.14 * (Bore/2)^2 * Stroke, This is often simplified as pi/4 * Bore^2 * Stroke, or V=0.7854 * Bore * Bore * Stroke. For a stock 440 bore of 4.320" and Stroke of 3.750" the swept volume of one cylinder is 54.97 ci.
Not compression related, but Multiply by 8 cylinders to get total engine displacement = 439.72"
Because the cylinder volume is usually measured in cubic centimeters (cc), we need the conversion factor from cc to cubic inches (ci), or convert the other way of ci to cc so we are working with the same units of measurement.
cc to ci, ci = cc * 0.0610237
ci to cc, cc = ci * 16.3871

We have the piston swept volume of 54.97 ci = 900.72 cc
The volume above the piston at TDC will be the volume that the piston sits below the deck (or subtracted if above deck) calculated the same as above, just where stroke was before, just use the piston the deck distance. With the KB 2.067" piston that distance is 0.015". so that volume is 0.2199 ci or 3.603 cc
Then the head gasket. Sometimes you can get the volume from the manufacturer, but a close estimate is to again use the cylinder volume equation.
I usually use 4.410" for the "bore" diameter of the head gasket and then the gasket thickness. This equates to 5.007 cc for a 0.020" head gasket and 10.014 cc for a 0.040" head gasket.
Factory cylinder head volumes are usually much larger than the specs. They really need to be measured to know for sure. For this example I'll use 89cc
The pistons usually have valve reliefs which add to the volume or domes which subtract from the volume. A KB237 flat top has 5cc valve reliefs (from KB, not measured.)
Some calculator also account for the small volume around the piston to wall clearance down to the first cylinder ring. That is usually going to be pretty small, and I don't bother calculating it.

So Total Volume = Swept + piston to deck + head gasket + cylinder head volume. 900.72 + 3.603 + 5.007 + 89 .0 + 5 = 1003.33
Volume above piston at TDC = 1003.33 - 900.72 = 102.61
Compression ratio = 1003.33 / 102.61 = 9.778:1
 
451 that was a lot of information. It was really cool to read through it, now we all know how those online compression calculators work. Life is all about about learning. For me this is a hobby, for some of you it is a living. I envy you.
 
The first version of the KB piston mentioned above did not have the 2.067 CH--- required excessive decking- these make it easy with a clean up cut
still I have had 440's that did not clean up with an .020 cut thick gaskets to the rescue I used .050 gaskets to get .030 quench pistons were out .020
 
Photon you can't cut the open chamber heads enough to make any real difference, and you have to cut the Intake manifold too
we used to weld up the chamber away from the spark plug side
...
The 915 heads I mentioned are closed chamber. In the olden days, racers would swap the 1967 915 heads onto a 1968 HP 440 and get an instant 13:1 compression ratio.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top