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convert to a 1 wire alt ?

jprather

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so, not to sound stupid , in order to change from a 3 wire to a 1 wire alt do i need to do anything special?? or just tape off the ends to the 2 polarity wires? do i need to unplug the Voltage req on the fire wall?( i was going to leave it there just for astatics )
 
Unless you want to spend big bucks for a mopar style one wire, the only alternative is a GM style, and then you will need a anti drain back diode.
Just out of curiosity, why do you want to do this?

Mark
 
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i need to change alt on car, it is acting funny and i have a new 1 wire powerMaster 175091, single wire alt, than i need to either use or send back to summit. I had ordered it for my other car, but ended up not needing it. so was considering putting on on my satty.

thoughts ??
 
Well, good enough reason, not sure if a diode is required with a Powermaster or not.

Mark
 
You can leave the stock regulator in place. Like you mentioned, make sure to isolate (Heat shrink or tape) the field wires.
On the self-excited single output alternators I have used, no diode is needed.
 
should i unplug / wrap wires at V/R as well, or just at the alternator ?
 
If you're trying for the stock look, I would wrap each with tape, and then tape to the harness.

Mark
 
thanks,
thats what my thought was, but, i have never done this before, i do like the thought of a single wire.

thank you for your input !
 
Unless you want to spend big bucks for a mopar style one wire, the only alternative is a GM style, and then you will need a anti drain back diode.
Just out of curiosity, why do you want to do this?

Mark

Out of curiosity, what is "an anti drain back diode" and where is it located?? The GM 10SI and 12SI alternator systems used a "diode trio" for rotor power via the internal voltage regulator and the 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier circuit did not require it either.
BOB RENTON
 
another reason is the " field wires " are old and very brittle
 
I think he means blocking diode. Terminology trips people up.

I understand the technology and meaning.....but...not the reference to the purpose of the feed back diode or its location (schematically) in the system. The three positive diodes in a typical three phase full wave bridge rectifier circuit, prevents a "back-flow" or reverse current flow from the battery thru the alternator stator windings to ground when the system is off.
BOB RENTON
 
Unless you want to spend big bucks for a mopar style one wire, the only alternative is a GM style, and then you will need a anti drain back diode.
Just out of curiosity, why do you want to do this?

Mark

Do you mean this one?

10086d1451986580-delco-cs130-mopar-small-block-diode-wiring.jpg
 

I think that is what they mean. Goes to Alternator indicator light with key-on ignition power.
I don't know GM alternators, but pretty sure the alternator is still internally regulated, and the warning lamp power is the "exciter" to turn the regulator on.
 
another reason is the " field wires " are old and very brittle
If you have brittle wiring and old alt is working the problem could be the wiring. Unless i read the thread wrong which for myself i do that.
 
I think that is what they mean. Goes to Alternator indicator light with key-on ignition power.
I don't know GM alternators, but pretty sure the alternator is still internally regulated, and the warning lamp power is the "exciter" to turn the regulator on.

The GM 10SI and 12SI alternator systems (the 10SI unit is shown), both have an internal regulator. The internal regulator is powered by the built in "diode trio" and the regulated voltage is applied to the rotating field windings via the "piggybacked" brush holder assembly. The ignition switch circuit switches the battery reference voltage to the regulator so the internal regulator knows what the battery voltage is. The diode trio is connected to the same AC windings as the 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier circuit. The diode trio supplies a three parallel SINGLE PHASE AC reference voltage to supply the DC for the rotor circuit. The warning lamp does not initially excite the regulator/rotor circuit but merely is an indicator that is turned off (extinguished) as soon as the alternator begins to make voltage. Simply put, there is a voltage difference when the key is switched on. As soon as the alternator generates voltage, the voltage across the indicator lamp is the same potential, which results in the indicator lamp being extinguished. FYI....the origional GM alternator system used an EXTERNAL regulator, which contained a field relay which switched the indicator lamp on/off. The identification is the field wires plug in the BACK SIDE of the alternator. The 10SI and 12SI units have a flat plug entering on the outside diameter of the alternator.
BOB RENTON
 
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