Coolant Recommendations?

[HawkRod]

So I did some searching of the archives, and there are a few posts relating to coolant. One references a good Hemmings article for coolant types. Here it is again for reference:
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2014/08/01/tech-101-the-colors-of-antifreeze/?refer=news

So my car is now in the home stretch of its restoration. Given that I have a re-cored radiator, new hearer core, drained engine, etc., I have the ability to try different coolant.

What experience do folks have with Evans Waterless Coolant? Benefits seems to be very little pressure in the system and no corrosion. Negatives seem to be higher temps (it seems to run hotter) and it is %$#@! expensive too at ~$50 per gallon.

For my drive across country, I certainly want something that is reliable, so I appreciate any opinions and especially those with experience with Evans, both good and bad.

Thanks,

Hawk

 

[Dennis H]

Bigmanjb on here like the Evans. I only put the traditional green coolant in mine. After the Dexcool episode I don't want any part of long-life anything. Two years is enough. I check the ph and leave at least 2inches from the top. 180 Stant Superstat.

 

[Photon440]

hsorman, here are a couple of Evans discussions in the recent past:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...e-the-Evan-s-HP-coolant-a-try&highlight=evans
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...9-Evans-Coolant-with-6-1-Hemi&highlight=evans

Hope it answers some questions.

 

[Dreadl0ck]

Some of my friends swear by it - but I had some problems with the higher temperatures in my heavily bored gen 3 hemi. And if you look at the temperatures on my 440 - higher temps are not what I need at the moment. I go by the classic green and learned the hard way not to top it up...

 

[HawkRod]

hsorman, here are a couple of Evans discussions in the recent past:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...e-the-Evan-s-HP-coolant-a-try&highlight=evans
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...9-Evans-Coolant-with-6-1-Hemi&highlight=evans

Hope it answers some questions.

Hi Photon & Dennis,

I had seen the first thread with bigmanjb, but I had not read the second thread - thanks for the links! The second thread and the article leads me to be more suspicious of the Evans coolant. This is causing me to begin to lean towards conventional coolant. I'll keep looking for some internet articles and information and will post here for folks to check out.

Thanks,

Hawk

 

[747mopar]

I've only ever run the traditional Green but I always throw some bars leak in on a new motor to help seal the frost plugs. On my new motor I noticed some small seepage around a few plugs while breaking in the cam but in short order they were gone, I even had a buddy put a wrench into a radiator and the stuff sealed it. It's just added insurance

 

[440beep]

I use "Be Cool" coolant in my Glen Ray 26" radiator with 180 degree tstat and the "440" runs nice and cool. Doesn't even break 200 when stuck in traffic.

 

[HawkRod]

Some of my friends swear by it - but I had some problems with the higher temperatures in my heavily bored gen 3 hemi. And if you look at the temperatures on my 440 - higher temps are not what I need at the moment. I go by the classic green and learned the hard way not to top it up...

Tack. (Thanks for the English folks!)

The more I heard about the Evans, the more I heard stories like that. It may not be fully accurate, but with the limited time before my trip, I don't want to take a chance.

- - - Updated - - -

I've only ever run the traditional Green but I always throw some bars leak in on a new motor to help seal the frost plugs. On my new motor I noticed some small seepage around a few plugs while breaking in the cam but in short order they were gone, I even had a buddy put a wrench into a radiator and the stuff sealed it. It's just added insurance

Thanks - yeah the Bars is good stuff - thanks for the reminder. It is even put in some new cars on the assembly line. I may just add a little bit, since in my case I re-installed my original engine with 80,000 miles on it. It was running like a champ and not even the ream main seal was weeping, so I figured why mess with it. I did, however, replace a temperature sensor, so with my luck it will leak there!

- - - Updated - - -

I use "Be Cool" coolant in my Glen Ray 26" radiator with 180 degree tstat and the "440" runs nice and cool. Doesn't even break 200 when stuck in traffic.

You know, that's a good question (LOL, not that you really asked it, but it got me thinking) - I really don't know what thermostat I have in my car - I left the one in it that was there when I got the car. It seems a lot of new stats are junk and don't work out of the box, so I figured I would leave a working one alone. But I don't know the temperature setting of it. My car is supposed to have a 195* from the factory, although if I replaced it I might go with a 190* or so just to pinch down underhood temperatures a little bit...

Hawk

 

[Dreadl0ck]

I think that there's no miracle products that will keep your car from overheating - but when you do overheat - it's easier if it doesn't boil over and leave you stranded with no coolant. Sure, there's the corrosion aspect of things - but honestly - how hard is it to change your coolant every once in a while ;)

 

[GetX'd]

I'm in CA now but the car is still in Minnesota. Talk about being sensitive to what antifreeze you put in the car. I've always gone with the green stuff because it seems to be good winter and summer. We have extremes on both ends. I've never heard of this other stuff - for that I apologize - but I like to stick with what works in season and out. And change regularly.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Traditional green and RedLine Water Wetter: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

Works great on my built 440.

 

[rscurtis]

I have Evans in my old Mercedes and will put it in the hemi after I fix a few issues with the engine. It seems to work great, and I run it at zero pressure. The advantage it has over conventional coolant is that it's waterless, therefore, no corrosion, cavitation or electrolysis. It is billed as a lifetime coolant. I didn't pay anywhere near $50/gallon either. If you're starting from scratch with a dry system, you won't need prep fluid or the refractometer either- another cost savings.

 

[Dennis H]

OK, I use the Amsoil version of water wetter to reduce surface tension. I hesitate to put Bars-Leaks in after a a recent flush and fill. Hope I don't regret it.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Hey there hsorman, I wouldn't recommend the Evan's coolant unless you have an aluminum radiator. As for me I love the stuff, yes expensive but in the end no pressure, no overheating, I sit in traffic and the temps go up to 200-210 but as soon as i get some wind in the sail it drops down like a rock back to its normal 165-170. I can cruise around all day at 160-170.

As far as higher temps go, if 210 is too hot than you have something else wrong with your motor. Remember Evans works by absorbing the heat from the cylinders and taking it to the radiator to be cooled then recirculated back to the block just like any normal coolant system. The difference is it does not vaporize once the temps get over 110° like water does and that make's it more efficient than water.

There are a lot of threads out there with negative attitudes about this stuff, and it takes a good long hard look for most of us to understand how it works and then give a shot in a real world test is hard because of the price. I should know I bought the stuff twice basically because of not understanding it fully and not following the directions to the T.

However, once you get it right the results are outstanding and the product becomes worth every penny. Especially knowing I will never have to change the fluid again at least for 10 years or a million miles. Also knowing I can pull my radiator cap off with out coolant blasting me in the face.

Also knowing that my engine is not rusting away from the inside out because of water and the 6 months breakdown of the inhibitors in antifreeze, yes 6 months that's all you get with antifreeze they lie if they say more. Do you change your coolant every 6 months? I never did.

I also was able to get rid of the restrictive stat, no more blockage! lol don't need it with this stuff as long as your water pump works you are good to go.


I sat at a Dyno for 4 runs 3 out of the 4 were back to back 5k rpm pulls temps were at 175-185 lmao It's up to you its your money but for me the benefits overwhelmingly outweigh the negatives, which are mostly people who don't' understand it or read other negative opinions and we know what opinions are like right? :headbang:


Oh one last thing, I switched from a giant champion 26" 3 row radiator to a smaller small block 3 row 26" the fit is better. Just to prove this stuff is better that a water mix of anything.

So I did some searching of the archives, and there are a few posts relating to coolant. One references a good Hemmings article for coolant types. Here it is again for reference:
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2014/08/01/tech-101-the-colors-of-antifreeze/?refer=news

So my car is now in the home stretch of its restoration. Given that I have a re-cored radiator, new hearer core, drained engine, etc., I have the ability to try different coolant.

What experience do folks have with Evans Waterless Coolant? Benefits seems to be very little pressure in the system and no corrosion. Negatives seem to be higher temps (it seems to run hotter) and it is %$#@! expensive too at ~$50 per gallon.

For my drive across country, I certainly want something that is reliable, so I appreciate any opinions and especially those with experience with Evans, both good and bad.

Thanks,

Hawk

 

[HawkRod]

Hey there hsorman, I wouldn't recommend the Evan's coolant unless you have an aluminum radiator. As for me I love the stuff, yes expensive but in the end no pressure, no overheating, I sit in traffic and the temps go up to 200-210 but as soon as i get some wind in the sail it drops down like a rock back to its normal 165-170. I can cruise around all day at 160-170.

As far as higher temps go, if 210 is too hot than you have something else wrong with your motor. Remember Evans works by absorbing the heat from the cylinders and taking it to the radiator to be cooled then recirculated back to the block just like any normal coolant system. The difference is it does not vaporize once the temps get over 110° like water does and that make's it more efficient than water.

There are a lot of threads out there with negative attitudes about this stuff, and it takes a good long hard look for most of us to understand how it works and then give a shot in a real world test is hard because of the price. I should know I bought the stuff twice basically because of not understanding it fully and not following the directions to the T.

However, once you get it right the results are outstanding and the product becomes worth every penny. Especially knowing I will never have to change the fluid again at least for 10 years or a million miles. Also knowing I can pull my radiator cap off with out coolant blasting me in the face.

Also knowing that my engine is not rusting away from the inside out because of water and the 6 months breakdown of the inhibitors in antifreeze, yes 6 months that's all you get with antifreeze they lie if they say more. Do you change your coolant every 6 months? I never did.

I also was able to get rid of the restrictive stat, no more blockage! lol don't need it with this stuff as long as your water pump works you are good to go.


I sat at a Dyno for 4 runs 3 out of the 4 were back to back 5k rpm pulls temps were at 175-185 lmao It's up to you its your money but for me the benefits overwhelmingly outweigh the negatives, which are mostly people who don't' understand it or read other negative opinions and we know what opinions are like right? :headbang:


Oh one last thing, I switched from a giant champion 26" 3 row radiator to a smaller small block 3 row 26" the fit is better. Just to prove this stuff is better that a water mix of anything.

bigmanjb,

Thank you for the detailed response - much appreciated!

I do not have an aluminum radiator, I have my original 26" heavy duty radiator, rebuilt by Glenn-Ray. Before my restoration, I never had any overheating issues (or even close). I have now added air conditioning so that could change things, but I still doubt I will have overheating issues. I will, however, still use a thermostat since I want to easily be able to drive the car in cold weather. I also want to keep the engine running at ideal temperature, and depending on who you ask, that is somewhere between 180* and 195*. I think 195* was more to reduce some emissions but this was the factory setting in 1970. I may go somewhere between 180* and 190* in my system.

Perhaps it all boils down to (no pun intended) installation and use of either type. Each has pros and cons.

Thanks again to you and rscurtis for sharing your experience with Evans!

Hawk

 

[Hanover Mopar]

I know it's an old thread but didn't want to start another.

Installed Evans coolant and a shroud over the winter (should have done this separately)
Car now runs 20 degrees hotter.
Do I remove the Evans or the shroud.
I'm thinking of trying tap water and water wetter.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Do you feel the car is overheating at 20° hotter? is it bogging down? or is it just the gauge reading the hotter temps but the Evans is doing its job pulling the heat away and back to the radiator. I found that in my case with a beefier motor running without the stat worked best and what seemed like overheating was actually not. don't lose the shroud at all. what type of pump do you have and is the pulley stock? I called Evans and these were some of the things they needed to know in order to help, at some point I need a different pulley I think to keep the temps around 195-210 in super hot days like 110°+

I know it's an old thread but didn't want to start another.

Installed Evans coolant and a shroud over the winter (should have done this separately)
Car now runs 20 degrees hotter.
Do I remove the Evans or the shroud.
I'm thinking of trying tap water and water wetter.

 

[Moparsmitty]

One thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread (I may have missed it) is the downside of using tap water in your cooling system. The well water at my place has a lot of iron and magnesium in it so I use green 50/50 that I get at NAPA. Even municipal water systems can have a lot of minerals and other crap in the water that you don't want in your cooling system. Don't give corrosion a head start. If you are mixing your own coolant, at least use distilled water.

 

[Hanover Mopar]

She ran up to 230 degrees with Evans.
I drained out the Evans (and saved it) and tried water and Purple Ice. Still overheated and now because it's water it's boiling away and making a mess.
The trouble started after I installed the shroud and put a 180 thermostat in it this winter (I was bored). It had no shroud and a gutted thermostat in it.
Going to try switching back to old setup and see what happens. Like to use the Evans if I can for all obvious reasons.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Curious, when you first used the evans did you use the hydrometer to check the % of water content if any still in the mix? I had to keep filling draining until I reached 1%. Also one thing I learned the hard way was that a 440 block holds about 5 gals of water so if you don't drain the block "fully" a lot of that water mixes with the evans and screws things up. Also discovered that if you do have a bad mix of water and coolant you can use a pot on a camping stove to boil the water out of the evans and save the evans. it takes about 30 minutes and you have to monitor it but it works instead of wasting you product and $$$. I told evans about this and they thought it was great, a little dangerous but great idea. Can you see the coolant flowing now in the top tank? are you sure you "burped" the coolant when you switched back to water ice mix? Oh and I don't have cold issues with no stat, once the motor has warmed up to op temps the heater works great. just saying. Also what type of fans do you use stock clutch? and the OE radiator has cooper small 1/2" tubes which is a huge restrictor unless Glenn Ray changed it to 3/4" or bigger. Evans says to use a high flow pump, a good large 1" tube or bigger aluminum radiator and good fans. I switched to 12" electric pullers which give me about 4000 cfm at idle through the radiator. there is a lot to factor when using Evans and t has to be just right or it wont work. but the best part is the high boil point and the excellent heat exchanging yes it may register as a higher temp but know that the benefit is no pressure and cools off fast with the right equipment , pump, radiator etc.