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Cooling problems on my 426 max wedge

Car Man

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My engine is running around 190 to 220. I have two pusher fans in front. Would it help to put an additional fan back on the water pump?
 
If you have room.... a 18 " fixed or clutch fan with a oem style shroud will help alot.
180 stat. Make sure all hood to car seals are inplace.
This is guessing you have a decent radiator.
Keep one pusher up front if needed for stop and go traffic or AC.
Jmho.
 
Rule of thumb, 180 stat runs 195ish, 190 stat runs 205ish. The # on the stat is when they start to open and are fully open about 15° hotter. What stat n what ambient temps. I'm in AZ w 120+ temps n 180 stat. Run on interstate at about 186ish n in town 196ish. Idle w a/c for 10 minutes about 222°. Not a big deal.
 
What is the CR? What is the timing set at?Are you using anti-freeeze?

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I prefer a mechanically driven fan, clutch or otherwise, to most any electric, unless there is no alternative, or on a race only application.
I use a 26" high efficiency cordoba copper, with a plastic flex fan, with a ten inch pusher for between rounds. The flex costs power, but does a great job keeping 500hp cool. Im willing to give up some power for that.
I do use two huge electric pullers (supposed to work better than pushers) in the car that has the radiator mounted at a 30° angle. A mechanical simply wont work under that condition.
 
2 pusher fans? How big ? 10 or 12?

A pusher is not as effective as a puller. If you have the room there is not reason you should not have them setup as a puller with a shroud. IF you want to use the electric or mechanical , thats up to you .

You never said what temp your thermostat is OR what are the conditions when you are the getting these temps??

Assuming the 220 is at idle for a prolong period of time, you need more air flow
 
^ Agreed, I would swap to puller. I like Spal 30102130 if you have room for them.
 
I have a question. I’ve heard a couple times a puller is better than a pusher. Why? I know in industrial electrical cabinets it’s always a pusher to have extra turbulence and therefore heat transfer and because the fan stays cooler. All the new cars have pullers though, the reason for that might not be max heat transfer. Any solid reasons?

Just came back to edit. Found a video with a test of computer radiators with actual push vs pull data. Push did a little better. Holley’s website asserts that pull is better but with no data. They say the push “blocks the radiator” but then, so does the pull. If I have a hallway with a closed door at one end or the other it’s still closed.
 
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No scientific data . but this is my opinion.

1. The pusher is mounted to the front. It is covering some of the surface area of the rad during driving. It doesn't really matter when at a stop since the only air flow is basically that of what the fan can produce.

2. Pushers are usually almost always mounted directly to the rad surface, there is almost no room between the fan blades and the fins of the rad. What i noticed when I had a pusher mounted on mine for a short period of time, was that it is very hard to feel the direction of air flow. I found that alot of air flow seemed to be bouncing off the face of the rad and back out towards the fan. Basically causing it to fight itself.

I tested this out by simply holding a piece of tissue paper in front of fan, in various areas, and the air flow was all over the place, when placed on the engine side of the rad, with the pushing there was some air flow making it threw the rad but it was small .

3. The only air flow at a stop , is that covered by the fan. The surface area of the rest of the rad is getting absolutely zero air flow .

Moving the fan to the other side ( puller) and placing it in a shroud that fits well. Now when the fan is running any air that fan is moving is pulled threw the rad, it literally has no other place to get it from. The shroud increases the the surface area where the air is being pulled from. You are basically making a vacuum .

Using the tissue paper method here, air flow at the front of the rad can clearly be seen, sucking the tissue right up against the rad any where over the finned surface. Placed on the other side, the air flow direction is clear, and even blowing towards the engine bay and assisting in air movement under the hood , too help keep everything else in there cooler as well.
 
I have a question. I’ve heard a couple times a puller is better than a pusher. Why? I know in industrial electrical cabinets it’s always a pusher to have extra turbulence and therefore heat transfer and because the fan stays cooler. All the new cars have pullers though, the reason for that might not be max heat transfer. Any solid reasons?

Just came back to edit. Found a video with a test of computer radiators with actual push vs pull data. Push did a little better. Holley’s website asserts that pull is better but with no data. They say the push “blocks the radiator” but then, so does the pull. If I have a hallway with a closed door at one end or the other it’s still closed.
A cabinet, a hallway are sitting still. A cat is moving. A puller is "behind" the radiator on a car. Do some actual research, not "Holley" website.
 
A cabinet, a hallway are sitting still. A cat is moving. A puller is "behind" the radiator on a car. Do some actual research, not "Holley" website.
Ok, so ‘actual’ research. Show me test data because you’re claiming you have it. I found some actual data for a few computer radiator tests, happy to look at your actual test data for moving cars, I couldn’t find any. I can see a couple scientific arguments for push, none for pull. I “gut feel” would think pull would be better but can find nothing beyond assertions and pseudo-science arguments as to why.
 
Ok, so ‘actual’ research. Show me test data because you’re claiming you have it. I found some actual data for a few computer radiator tests, happy to look at your actual test data for moving cars, I couldn’t find any. I can see a couple scientific arguments for push, none for pull. I “gut feel” would think pull would be better but can find nothing beyond assertions and pseudo-science arguments as to why.
My simple unscientific answer would be.... you can pull with a shroud, over the whole core area. You can only push where there is a fan.
 
My simple unscientific answer would be.... you can pull with a shroud, over the whole core area. You can only push where there is a fan.
I agree with that. What I see no evidence of is pull being fundamentally better than pushing. I think the infrastructure and existing equipment for pull is better, often making that better in total. The assertion that “pull is better” with no evidence shown yet, I’m not buying, well, until I see it. I have no skin in this game, just looking at actual facts.
 
Just did some experimenting on one of my cars cooling system. First I replaced the PRW water pump with a FlowKooler high volume. That slowed down how fast the engine heated up idling on a hot day. Then I replaced the 180 Stant SuperStat with a full flow Milodon. This made a bigger difference, dropping the operating temp from 190 to 182-184. I was quite impressed with that. This is with a factory mechanical clutch fan setup, 22" radiator, and factory shroud. I have never run an electrical fan setup.
 
I agree with that. What I see no evidence of is pull being fundamentally better than pushing. I think the infrastructure and existing equipment for pull is better, often making that better in total. The assertion that “pull is better” with no evidence shown yet, I’m not buying, well, until I see it. I have no skin in this game, just looking at actual facts .

Your "actual facts" are that from a computer cooling system . With this line of thinking the conditions inside a computer are the exact same as a car running outside.........see how their might be a problem ?

If you want to put a pusher fan on your car go right ahead . Just ignore 99% of the mass produced cars as well as race cars on the road . Damn good evidence if you as me.

And maybe re read my previous post how a shroud (which you cannot put on a pusher fan ) increases the puller efficiency more than any pusher is capable of.

To each their own ..
 
Anything you put in front of the radiator, including a fan is going to deflect or disrupt some air flow.

Years ago I ALWAYS used bug screens over the radiator until one car started running hot. Pulled the bug screen and problem solved.

My money is on the pusher fans.
 
As i said above, i use a belt driven fan on my street/strip car, with a pusher in front (along with a trans cooler).
I have the pusher on a switch so it only is on when i want. I know it is some restriction, but when the engine is running, i can see the pusher freewheel from the air being sucked through it by the flex fan and shroud.
 
Running a single spall pusher. $200 Afco triple pass aluminum radiator. Keeps my 545ci around 180/185*

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Keep in mind...
When running a fan be a pusher or puller...
Make sure U have beefed up the electrical system..
They do draw a lot of current..

Just my $0.02... ;)
 
Just did some experimenting on one of my cars cooling system. First I replaced the PRW water pump with a FlowKooler high volume. That slowed down how fast the engine heated up idling on a hot day. Then I replaced the 180 Stant SuperStat with a full flow Milodon. This made a bigger difference, dropping the operating temp from 190 to 182-184. I was quite impressed with that. This is with a factory mechanical clutch fan setup, 22" radiator, and factory shroud. I have never run an electrical fan setup.
With those temps I'd say you don't need to!:)
 
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