Cooling system upgrade options

[gtx6970]

my 1966 Satellite
A recent purchase so I dont know much about the engines internals. Its a 383 and am told compression is in the 9.5 range , Stealth Aluminum heads . car will run on regular unleaded no problem so its not to high Timing is set in the low teens range as baseline
But car runs 200 or better, and get into the 220 or more range in traffic. It will cool down slightly once moving steadily. But stays in the 200-205 range . Far to hot for my taste. Ive tried 3 different thermostats , from a standard 180 stant, A high flow Mr Gasket and lastly a 180 Stewart Components and none have made any difference . And ambient temps have been in the 80 to mid 90s range. I currently have no thermostat in it and made no change what so ever


Ive found out the car has an aluminum water pump hsg from MP , And that the radiator is a 22 inch Champion and it has zero provisions for a shroud

Is there a better choice for a radiator and still keep it 22" and add a shroud out there

up grading to a larger 26 is an option if I have to as a last resort ,,,I just dont like the look that comes with it and still keeping the stock 22" opening
. Keeping it stock OE looking is not factor on this car


My other 2 cars ( one Hemi, one 440 and both 26" radiators ) have a Stewart Componets 180 in them and they run right on the stat if I'm moving, they might creep up a tad to maybe upper 190s range in traffic but cool right back down once moving steadily

 

[slepr1]

Imo I think you are lucky your other 2 cars are getting those lower temps. Both my mopars run 200-220 like your 66. And I have shrouds on both. From my understanding these temps are normal operating temps. It'll be interesting to hear other peoples opinions on this.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Imo I think you are lucky your other 2 cars are getting those lower temps. Both my mopars run 200-220 like your 66. And I have shrouds on both. From my understanding these temps are normal operating temps. It'll be interesting to hear other peoples opinions on this.

I don't have anything that runs that hot, and the summer temperatures here are in the high 90's to low 100's.
Most of mine are basically stock cooling systems. Number one, make sure your radiator is up to par. Then make sure the system is clean. From what you have said, I would look at the engine timing. You can load your engine and build excessive heat by there. I would put premium fuel in it, and increase the timing until it pings, and then dial it in a couple of degrees lower.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Did you do the sheet of paper face of radiator test at idle and make sure you are pulling air? if I were you I'd replace the water pump itself and also see if the fan is ideal (no flex fans, be wary of electric fans. A fixed steel fan works wonders).

As for radiators, I'm a big fan of Griffin for aluminum and US Car Tool for the copper rads.

How's the carb settings? Too lean can also cause heat.

 

[steve340]

What about a Cold Case radiator and using a fan shroud - this would probably nail it.

 

[beanhead]

I see you've discovered the fact that thermostat temp makes no difference. While I'm not a Cold Case fan, (full disclosure=I have one in my car) they do work well. I use the 70-up MP shroud and it bolted right on, with a factory 7-blade fan and Flow-Kooler pump. 10 to 1 505", 4000 stall, 600+hp and the hottest it gets is 195-200 and that's only during extended idling in traffic on hot (100-110) days and I'm not easy on it. Ambient temps DO make a difference, as you can have 150-170 degree air radiating off the asphalt...especially down there in Az--so airflow is key. A shroud will make a big difference. 210-220 is obviously not "overheating" but IMO that's way too hot. If things are right it should never see 220. Electric fans may be in your future!

 

[themechanic]

What about a Cold Case radiator and using a fan shroud - this would probably nail it.

OEM shrouds don't fit CC 26" radiators, even the one they recommend. Ask me how I know.

 

[themechanic]

I see you've discovered the fact that thermostat temp makes no difference. While I'm not a Cold Case fan, (full disclosure=I have one in my car) they do work well. I use the 70-up MP shroud and it bolted right on, with a factory 7-blade fan and Flow-Kooler pump. 10 to 1 505", 4000 stall, 600+hp and the hottest it gets is 195-200 and that's only during extended idling in traffic on hot (100-110) days and I'm not easy on it. Ambient temps DO make a difference, as you can have 150-170 degree air radiating off the asphalt...especially down there in Az--so airflow is key. A shroud will make a big difference. 210-220 is obviously not "overheating" but IMO that's way too hot. If things are right it should never see 220. Electric fans may be in your future!

What's the part number on the 70 up shroud you said bolts right on? I've tried 3 OEM shrouds and they don't come close to fitting my 26" CC radiator.

 

[steve340]

Speedway Motors has some good tech articles on fans/shrouds etc on their web site you may find helpful.
You may find a good shroud is all you need - they can make a big difference.
Your 22 inch radiator if good is probably OK.
At least an aluminium radiator is easy to weld tags to for shroud mounts.

 

[beanhead]

What's the part number on the 70 up shroud you said bolts right on? I've tried 3 OEM shrouds and they don't come close to fitting my 26" CC radiator.

#2998326 shroud
#MOP754A radiator

 

[Wietse]

Since you did not mention it, did you verify the temperature by any other means?
Gauge might be off and showing higher than it really is.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I jave a $200 afco aluminum triple pass radiator and a 16 inch spal fan and in stop & go it might hit 195,
I don't get how these $1200 ti $1400 radiator packages with fancy shrouds and trap doors still run over 200*

 

[Don Frelier]

My 66 with a 383 has a 26" radiator?
I've been getting a lot of rust out from the block so I pulled the radiator and hosed it out from the outlet along with the block.
When I re-installed it I left the thermostat out on purpose to keep flushing out the rust and it ran at probably around 140 degrees.
I do have a clutch fan and a shroud on it. It's just a cheap E-bay aluminum radiator and the factory shroud fits perfect.

 

[themechanic]

I see you've discovered the fact that thermostat temp makes no difference. While I'm not a Cold Case fan, (full disclosure=I have one in my car) they do work well. I use the 70-up MP shroud and it bolted right on, with a factory 7-blade fan and Flow-Kooler pump. 10 to 1 505", 4000 stall, 600+hp and the hottest it gets is 195-200 and that's only during extended idling in traffic on hot (100-110) days and I'm not easy on it. Ambient temps DO make a difference, as you can have 150-170 degree air radiating off the asphalt...especially down there in Az--so airflow is key. A shroud will make a big difference. 210-220 is obviously not "overheating" but IMO that's way too hot. If things are right it should never see 220. Electric fans may be in your future!

What's the part number on the 70 up shroud you said bolts right on? I've tried 3 OEM shrouds and they don't come close to fitting my 26" CC radiator

#2998326 shroud
#MOP754A radiator

Thanks. I have MOP750A. It has the inlet and outlet on opposite sides. U tried that shroud but it doesn't fit. They must have designed the shroud mounting flanges different on the two shrouds. Seems like a dumb idea. Maybe our CC representative could chime in and educate us.

 

[gtx6970]

Thanks all for the replies.
1st I have not verified the temps with a temp gun. It does have a aftermkt electrical sender gauge on it thus my readings so far .
I have to go out of town this week for family . So it will be next weekend before I can get back to it .
Im thinking my next step is pull the radiator and flush both it and the engine . Pull the aluminum water pump hsg and make sure no offset core issues causing a blockage between it and and the block

 

[Don Frelier]

I have this one:

 

[gtx6970]

I have this one:

View attachment 1345456

Thanks, A couple people have referred me to that one. Once I get back to it next week. Odds are good Im going that route and add a shroud to it .

 

[diesel_lv]

This may have been resolved, but a 180° t-stat "starts" to open at 180°, not "run" at 180°. It's fully open at 195° and depending on the engine, radiator, water pump, fan, and shroud combo, it will stabilize anywhere from 195° n a little above. 200-205 is no big deal in town. If the needle is in the low to mid range of "normal" on the gauge, all is good.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

This may have been resolved, but a 180° t-stat "starts" to open at 180°, not "run" at 180°. It's fully open at 195° and depending on the engine, radiator, water pump, fan, and shroud combo, it will stabilize anywhere from 195° n a little above. 200-205 is no big deal in town. If the needle is in the low to mid range of "normal" on the gauge, all is good.

I've read this also, but in my real experience with my car using an aftermarket Autometer Sport Comp analog gauge, with 180F high flow t-stat, once engine is up to temp and under load, my coolant temp as it reads on the gauge stays at 175F-180F at cruise with air flow passing across the radiator and in stop and go traffic it might go up to 195F max.

 

[69Coronetrt]

Bill, my stock '69 440 with 22" 053 and 130 shroud (you know the one...), stock water pump and fan runs 170 all day. Maybe 190 on a hot humid Iowa summer day in stop and go traffic. Glen Ray did my radiator. The block was flushed/cleaned when rebuilt.

Mopar engineers were pretty smart. Before spending cubic dollars on aftermarket parts, how about taking a step back, talking with Glen Ray about what can be done with what you already have for a radiator and looking at a stock set up?