Cost of metal work?

[Feral]

I bought a 71 Super Bee off of a user on this forum and I'm needing to have a bit of metal work done to it, nothing structural as far as I can tell. I have most of the metal I need that I can cut from a donor car, but I need to buy the drivers side floor pan.

Can anyone give me a ball-park idea of what it would cost to have fenders/quarters patched, trunk and floor pans (drivers side floor) patched and wheel houses replaced? Minus the cost of parts, and not including painting...

 

[snakeoil24]

3K to 4K up here.

 

[moparpoor]

It starts at $40 per hour and up depending where you live! Around here $44 and up!

 

[hunt2elk]

Also make sure you find a bodyman who has worked on these older cars before and not just newer collision work. Replacng metal on our older cars is time consuming but it helps if you find someone who has done this type of work before.

 

[Dodge33]

These guy's are totally correct!!

 

[Feral]

Looks like I'll be finding some scrap sheet metal and get some practice in welding. At least to do the floor and trunk pans...

 

[wannadrag]

Looks like I'll be finding some scrap sheet metal and get some practice in welding. At least to do the floor and trunk pans...

Good choice,its not rocket science.Just don't rush it and take your time.Measure twice and then one more time before cutting.

 

[Feral]

Here are some pictures of the driver's side floor pan...

Even with the big hole, the floor support seems to be solid as a rock. I've sat in the car a number of times and I don't feel any give in the floor.

Anything I should know about cutting out the floor pan? Bracing, what to avoid, etc...

 

[flypaper]

buy a set of blair spotweld cutters
and go to town..
i would be hoping that the torsion x member isn't swiss cheese like the floor is.
you will find out soon enough
after the floor is gone...

 

[Feral]

buy a set of blair spotweld cutters
and go to town..
i would be hoping that the torsion x member isn't swiss cheese like the floor is.
you will find out soon enough
after the floor is gone...

My dad has a plasma cutter and a grinder I can use. But I think that crossmember is in good shape, but if it was in need of replacement; how hard would that be? Would I need to take it to a frame shop, or would that be something I could do?

I have a 72 Charger I could pull it from too.

 

[flypaper]

once the floor is out, it is easy to get to.
no need for a frame shop.
if you are taking off metal from a donor car,
you will end up needing those spot weld cutters or at least a good drill bit.
the cutters will do a neater job.

 

[snakeoil24]

You can do it. You will need to get the body square and level before you attempt that on stands using a long bubble level. Also look at your inner rockers. They will require the body be braced.

 

[Feral]

once the floor is out, it is easy to get to.
no need for a frame shop.
if you are taking off metal from a donor car,
you will end up needing those spot weld cutters or at least a good drill bit.
the cutters will do a neater job.

The 72 has got some poor floor boards too, but it's quarters and trunk pan seem to be in good enough shape to use with minimal patching. And I think my father might have all the tools I need to do good clean cutting, but I wouldn't swear to it. He's a welder, so I would assume he'd have these tools.

You can do it. You will need to get the body square and level before you attempt that on stands using a long bubble level. Also look at your inner rockers. They will require the body be braced.

Any work that needs me to do leveling and bracing like that, I'd just take to a professional shop. I'm willing to spare the extra money to make sure it's done right.

 

[roadrunnerman]

Judging from your photos, it looks like you're going t need as much floor as you can get. Maybe new or better shape floor braces, and I would almost plan on replacing the torsion bar cross member. At this point, it might be easier and cheaper to replace than repair.

 

[Feral]

I went to a local body shop and had the work "ball parked", they priced all the work at $5,000. And that's completely stripping the car, repairing/replacing the bad metal, complete sanding, primered and sealed, all new weather stripping; and I'd have to supply the parts.

 

[BeastlyBirdie]

Don't have them prime it. Shops are notorious for hiding things under primer. Also, you want it media blasted, not sanded. Then, you can see every area on the car.

 

[BarrsRestoration]

If they priced it that cheap, look out! Ballparks are for fun and games, and that ain't gonna be fun.
I suspect you have a can of worms, just no one has removed the lid yet. When they do, the price should go up if it's done correctly. I've opened quite a few of those cans, and I'm speaking based my own experience.
You mentioned you have a used trunk floor and quarter sections from another car, and they need "minimal patching". The labor for removing and repairing those parts will probably exceed the cost of new parts. Judging by the condition of the floor, the inside of the torsion bar cross member is rotten and thin, if not eaten through by now. Where the driver's side frame rail joins the cross member is probably toast, too. Is there swelling around the spot welds of the shock mounts? Remove the front wheels and check the top of the frame rails where the upper control arm is mounted. It's like a tray that holds dirt and crud. Make sure it's not eaten through or so swollen between the layers that it needs to be cut out and replaced.
Your left rocker is shot and so is the lt. hinge pillar. Very possibly the inner rocker is eaten away also, where it joins the cross member. If you can, trim away enough floor to determine how solid the adjoining metal is. Peel away the floor pan above the cross member and dig the dirt out of it. Remove the dash assembly and heater box, seats and all interior trim. Pull the gas tank out, drivetrain too if it's going to be rebuilt.
I'm not trying to discourage you from taking this on, only trying to enlighten you so that it doesn't end up being a dream you dump lots of money into that exceeds your finances or ability. Good luck!

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

If they priced it that cheap, look out! Ballparks are for fun and games, and that ain't gonna be fun.
I suspect you have a can of worms, just no one has removed the lid yet. When they do, the price should go up if it's done correctly. I've opened quite a few of those cans, and I'm speaking based my own experience.
You mentioned you have a used trunk floor and quarter sections from another car, and they need "minimal patching". The labor for removing and repairing those parts will probably exceed the cost of new parts. Judging by the condition of the floor, the inside of the torsion bar cross member is rotten and thin, if not eaten through by now. Where the driver's side frame rail joins the cross member is probably toast, too. Is there swelling around the spot welds of the shock mounts? Remove the front wheels and check the top of the frame rails where the upper control arm is mounted. It's like a tray that holds dirt and crud. Make sure it's not eaten through or so swollen between the layers that it needs to be cut out and replaced.
Your left rocker is shot and so is the lt. hinge pillar. Very possibly the inner rocker is eaten away also, where it joins the cross member. If you can, trim away enough floor to determine how solid the adjoining metal is. Peel away the floor pan above the cross member and dig the dirt out of it. Remove the dash assembly and heater box, seats and all interior trim. Pull the gas tank out, drivetrain too if it's going to be rebuilt.
I'm not trying to discourage you from taking this on, only trying to enlighten you so that it doesn't end up being a dream you dump lots of money into that exceeds your finances or ability. Good luck!

Absolutely agree with everything he said.

I've been there, done that.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I feel your pain. Unless this car is especially important to you, I would spend an extra $3-5 K for a car that does not need floor pans or extensive metal replacement. Unless you have a lot of sheet metal fabrication experience. Things like this is what stalls out a rebuild project. Good Luck.....................MO

 

[greenmachine]

My car had minimal trunk rot (only center if trunk), around back window at corners and my bill came to 3000. I have no sheet metal experience (yet) and paid the piper. If u love the car then go for it, but buying the cleanest body u can is the best way to go. Good luck. These guys know a ton.