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Crank bushing for manual conversion

Superb Bee

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A friend of mine called me today he needs the crank bushing to put a manual trans with an auto crank, I have 1 of them I got from napa a while back, I gave him the number 615-1933 and he said that napa doesnt have them.

Anyone know where to get these now, I hate to give up my last one, and he said his other option is a bearing they made which sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen to me..

Any help so I can help him would be great.
 
If you use the bearing, you'll be cutting about 3/4' off the trans input shaft.
 
Brewers or Passon.
Better ask the experts... there are several variations as to if, and what size hole is in the crank. Some are not drilled at all and then have to use a special bearing and cut off some of the tip on the input shaft..........................MO
 
Isn`t that only if your crank isn't drilled at all?
Not necessarily. As I've learned, some cranks are drilled deep enough but weren't "finish drilled" for the bushing.
Our Mopar hobbys' beloved "Professor" Rick Ehrenberg has one of this type for sale as well and, of course, he's a fountain of information on them (and anything Mopar) to boot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-PILOT...633782?hash=item4b14b01ef6:g:tXwAAOSwHPlWdGjm
With the decades of support he's given the hobby, I try to support him anytime I can. :)
 
Im not sold on that needle bearing assembly, I remember a conversation with wayne where he said he had a couple failures after a while and it caused shaft damage.

I am going to call them today and see what he is doing now, its been a while since i had to deal with this, I normally put a manual crank in the cars getting manuals and in the couple cases I didnt have one I had them machined and dealt with it out of the block, and for the auto stick conversions I have done I had good luck with that bushing.

Wayne used to sell a unit that looked just like that except it wasnt a roller, it fit into the at cranks large hole, and you could drill your crank or cut the shaft, I drilled a couple cranks in the car, used and over sized bit and only went as deep as i had to. Something about cutting the shafts I dont like although drilling the crank is not much better of a situation..
 
My crank was not drilled deep enough for a manual trans input shaft. I drilled it out myself to give the length required so I wouldn't have to cut the shaft off. Then I used one of these bearings vs the bushing. The bearing fits the standard input shaft dimension and the receiving pocket on the crank. I could have cut the shaft and used the bearing but I preferred to drill it out.
 
As long as it's done properly....I'd always go the drilled route.
 
A bushing will be more forgiving, might want to indicate the bell housing in first to avoid the possibility of this from the bearing................
Inputshaftwear.jpg
 
Pioneer make them
PB286 for std crank and PB286A for auto crank
It took awhile to find the listing to comfirm the number stuck in my head from selling them
20 years ago
looks like summit sells them
 
The one from Brewers comes with directions on how to fit this properly. A little more to it than cutting of the tip off...
 
I've been down this road more than once. I'm currently running the bearing & I'm very happy with it. It seemed a little bit easier to slide the trans in vs. the bushing and I've had no issues.

fyi- I've cut 4 spd trans input shafts for auto cranks. You can see the bushing contact area & all you're really cutting off is the 3/4"-1" of trans input shaft that is past the bushing and riding free in crankshaft hole, so it doesn't matter in my opinion. I like to put a slight bevel on my input shafts after shortening them. The only thing that ever worried me was side-loading the front trans bearing while cutting the input shaft (I did my first one with a grinder). Now I use small cutoff wheels and take my time so I minimize side-to-side vibration during the cut.
 
Not necessarily. As I've learned, some cranks are drilled deep enough but weren't "finish drilled" for the bushing.
Our Mopar hobbys' beloved "Professor" Rick Ehrenberg has one of this type for sale as well and, of course, he's a fountain of information on them (and anything Mopar) to boot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-PILOT...633782?hash=item4b14b01ef6:g:tXwAAOSwHPlWdGjm
With the decades of support he's given the hobby, I try to support him anytime I can. :)
I think he should have informed the buyer that the end of the input shaft has to be cut off...........................MO
 
My crank was not drilled deep enough for a manual trans input shaft. I drilled it out myself to give the length required so I wouldn't have to cut the shaft off. Then I used one of these bearings vs the bushing. The bearing fits the standard input shaft dimension and the receiving pocket on the crank. I could have cut the shaft and used the bearing but I preferred to drill it out.
Me too, but I understand you have to be real careful with how deep you drill as it could get into a drilled oil mpassage in the crank.......................MO
 
I wasn't sure about the passages, so I measured the engine the trans came off of and drilled my replacement to the same depth. At the time I was worried, but it was all ok. It worked out just fine! :)
 
That special bearing is just the stock bearing used on any magnum v8 with a stick. They go 500,000 in them with no issues
I have seen that bearing offered in a sintered bronze ( same material as a pilot bearing) instead of a roller bearing. I don't know why unless someone is worried that the roller bearing would go out?......................MO
 
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