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CrankShaft Help- 1970 B Body 4 Speed Six Pack Car

RoadRunner1970

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I was told the crankshaft in my 440 is for an automatic and not the correct one for a 4 speed six pack car. So is there a difference, and how can I tell the difference when buying a crankshaft? Thanks All
 
The auto crank has a locator so to speak pressed into the rear of the crank.Just remove it!:poke:

Pictures when I get home if needed...........
 
i ordered a piece from Passon Performance and it is too long and needs cut my mechanic is saying?
 
The auto crank has a locator so to speak pressed into the rear of the crank.Just remove it!:poke:

Pictures when I get home if needed...........
News to me.....! The auto crank isn't drilled deep enough for the pilot/input shaft or machined for a pilot bushing.
 
As Cranky said... Cut 3/4" off the end of the input shaft and install a roller bearing in the flange bore. You'll see on mine I have a standard trans crank and pilot bushing, but my numbers match trans had the input shaft cut, by me, back in 1979 to install behind 440 I put in our old Fury II that was an automatic's engine. Needed the bearing to make it work again as input shaft not long enough to reach the pilot bushing.

beerestoration2017 065.JPG beerestoration2017 066.JPG
 
So does anyone have the correct 440-6 crankshaft for sale?
 
As Cranky said... Cut 3/4" off the end of the input shaft and install a roller bearing in the flange bore. You'll see on mine I have a standard trans crank and pilot bushing, but my numbers match trans had the input shaft cut, by me, back in 1979 to install behind 440 I put in our old Fury II that was an automatic's engine. Needed the bearing to make it work again as input shaft not long enough to reach the pilot bushing.

View attachment 676751 View attachment 676752
Yup....but never said to cut the input shaft to fit :D And no, I have never done that but know several that have. I actually have a couple of 440 cranks that are original for 4 speeds that are still hanging around....
 
Yup....but never said to cut the input shaft to fit :D And no, I have never done that but know several that have. I actually have a couple of 440 cranks that are original for 4 speeds that are still hanging around....
rich rehrenberg, has often said with his roller bearing no cutting is needed,they are for automatic shafts that has not been drilled.go to his site and see that bearing.
 
You MUST cut the input shaft to install a standard to an automatics crankshaft. The pilot hole is not drilled deep enough to accept it in stock form. Something I learned way back in 1979!

I'd be pretty certain the bearing I showed above is the same.
 
If you already have the crank out just take it to a machine shop and have it drilled to depth and sized for the pilot bushing.
 
rich rehrenberg, has often said with his roller bearing no cutting is needed,they are for automatic shafts that has not been drilled.go to his site and see that bearing.
I know about the bearing but it still doesn't change the length of the parts......ya got to cut the end of the input shaft for it to fit if the crank shaft isn't drilled deep enough to accept it.
 
I've always heard the auto cranks weren't machined for the pilot bushing or whatever....
Here's the thing, though. The current 440 in the GTX is a 1972 according to the numbers.

When we did the whole transmission debacle (Passon) thing recently that some of you may recall,
I put a new bushing in the crank and it went in fine. We also put the Dakota roller bearing (from Professor
Ehrenberg, yes) into the recess in the crank for the hub of a torque convertor for good measure, too.
(I had fetched the roller bearing in advance, figuring the crank wouldn't accept a bushing.)

Hmmm, says I...
(I really did say that at the time)

Could it be that someone built the engine in the past with an older, forged crank that was already drilled?
Maybe. Unknown.
I do know the input shaft of this junk 4 speed is riding pretty in two freaking input "rides", though. :)
 
You MUST cut the input shaft to install a standard to an automatics crankshaft.......

Umm, hang on there a bit.
440 auto crank I have ………………….
CrnkFlgNoBush.gif


dims on this crank require the green bore area to be opened up for the STOCK size bushing. Depth is fine...……..
CrankDepthDiam1.jpg


Then too, way back, I had a '66 383 that just had just the center bore and needed to be drilled for diameter and depth. Same as the example 2/3 down this page before the bearing was available........
https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml
 
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Napa used to sell an undersized pilot bearing made to fit directly into non finish drilled automatic crankshafts. I have used them,and they fit without modification.
 
Napa used to sell an undersized pilot bearing made to fit directly into non finish drilled automatic crankshafts. I have used them,and they fit without modification.
And you didn't have to shorten the trans input shaft? Also, the 'small' hole usually wasn't concentric with the rest of the other machined surfaces because it was just drilled and not machined.
 
image.jpg
The autos were drilled .914 but not honed to .941. With the crank in block just hone it. If crank is out, let an engine building machine shop open it up. Why cut the shaft, wrong route, so is the needle bearing. Needles bearings are like electric fuel pumps, not old school, new fangled/prone to failure, stick with mechanical pump and oilite bronze bushing, just saying...
Pilot bushings
Standard. .941 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa-Balkanp 615-1026
Federal Mogul PB286HD

Undersized N/A
.914 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa 615-1034

Pilot needle bearing
Bower PCA FC69907
National Bearing FC-69907
Mopar 53009180AB
MP P5007051
 
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