Crate Motor Suggestion

[Heath Walker]

Hello everyone this is my first time posting in this forum so here goes! Recently purchased a 1966 Plymouth Satelite with a 383 big block and I am looking for suggestions on a good crate motor to put in it. There is nothing wrong with the motor in it but I want a bit more hp than that one makes! Is there a particular brand or size you guys could recommend? I would like to make around 500hp give or take

 

[Jerry Hall]

A 66 383 was 325 HP from the factory. If I were looking to do something like that, I would stroke the engine I have, use better heads with port work and a cam to meet your expectations. Fortunately I think that can still be done more economically than just buying someone else's crate engine and not knowing a lot about what you actually have.

 

[Heath Walker]

A 66 383 was 325 HP from the factory. If I were looking to do something like that, I would stroke the engine I have, use better heads with port work and a cam to meet your expectations. Fortunately I think that can still be done more economically than just buying someone else's crate engine and not knowing a lot about what you actually have.

It already has ported Aluminum heads and forged pistons

 

[Heath Walker]

And a cam

 

[33 IMP]

As far as I know, the only place that offers a big block mopar crate engine is CME,Carolina machine engines, and I'm not sure they still do. Do your due diligence, find out if they offer what you want, and check reputation . I have no personal experience with them.
Blueprint offers a 408 crate small block, but that would require a small block trans, and a bunch of other mods.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

https://ohiospeedshops.com/blueprint-engines-bpc4931ct-base-493-chrysler-525hp-590tq

 

[Richard Cranium]

And a cam

Good thing because it won't run without one. Did you check for lifters and pushrods?

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Hellephant!

 

[69 GTX]

Just put a 150 shot of NOS on it. You already have forged pistons. And it'll be a whole lot cheaper.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I believe a 383 strokes to a 432 with a 440 crankshaft, but there are more options available. You stated nothing about what you had or the modifications in your original question, so I assumed stock. Just remember some changes can take you backward in HP. It's hard for me to realize that after 50 plus years hardly anything is stock anymore. Best of luck in your quest for 500 HP.

 

[chargervert]

You are better off to use a mid 70s 400 block to build a low deck stroker wedge engine, you already have the heads which are the biggest expense. There was a build that uses common big block Chevy aftermarket connecting rods. By using the 400 block with the 440 crankshaft, big block Chevy rods,and the correct pistons for the stroke,you can achieve 472 cubic inch engine. The 400 block has larger main journals,than the 383 block, so the crankshaft will not have to be cut as deeply as it would in a 383 block. The block will require some clearancing for the larger 440 crank counterweights. Any competent machine shop should be able to build you a 400 based 472 stroker engine. I have a friend that runs one in an all steel 66 Charger, with a full interior that runs consistant 10.40s.

 

[69 GTX]

Chargervert, don't they have to offset grind the 440 cranks to get 470? I was thinking the 440 crank in the 400 block netted 451.

 

[33 IMP]

I'm almost positive that blueprint big block is no longer available.
And 383s and 400s have the same main bearing diameter, smaller than a 440.
Aftermarket 4.25" crank in a 383, 489" at .030 over, 496" at .060 over. Good heads on top, should be 500hp easy. No need to mess with a 440 crank, and all the machining necessary to make it work.

 

[chargervert]

I believe that the 400 block has larger main journals than the 383,thats why people prefer to use the 400 block over the 383 block. Either that or they have heavier webbing to allow the 400 mains to be line bored out to 440 main journal size. There was a reason why the 400 block was prefered over the 383 block. The build that I remember reading about netted 472 cubic inches using a 440 crankshaft, big block Chevy Manley rods,and the correct pistons with the necessary wrist pin offset. I don't remember what the bore was off the top of my head. The build I suggested is an affordable way to build a low deck stroker wedge, verses the price of a costly crate engine. I know that I paid the long dollar for my Cummins built crate Hemi, and it's in the machine shop being gone through before I even run it! The crate engine thing sounds great, but you have to really do your homework on the builder before you part with your money! I never felt so sick,after paying 13k for an engine, and then all the horror stories started coming out about quality control on the Cummins built engines! I know because I lived it!

 

[Jerry Hall]

Chargervert, don't they have to offset grind the 440 cranks to get 470? I was thinking the 440 crank in the 400 block netted 451.

400 block 30 over and 440 crank equals 451.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

For 500hp build any big block should handle that easily. The webbing is a lot thicker around the blocks mains on a 400 vs a 383. 400s very, some 400s have less material in the main webs then others. Journals sizes are the same 383 or 400. Pretty typical to install aftermarket caps when going to 440 sizes mains. But that is not necessary for your goals mentioned. The 400 is the biggest bore of any BB...so more cubic inches with really no more effort. Several sites have good pictures of the block differences and it's been talked about plenty.
If your 383 block is like new yet it would probably be a matter of installing a stroker crank kit and you would be done. Very little machining would need to be done. Purchase a stroker crank with smaller counterbalances 383 mains and 2.2 chevy rod journals...new bbc rod and forged pistons. Very little clearancing likely would be needed....but that depends on how big a throw the crank you choose. I would build a 4.25 stroke...probably looking at $3000 or so in parts for the build assuming your block is in good shape.

 

[cr8crshr]

I would just stroke it myself personally. I have the exact model/year car as you, and my 383 HP...although not original to it...runs great and has a kick in the pants result. Less money spent and the most important point here is that any and just about all crate motors will need to be thoroughly gone through and possibly torn down to insure that they are actually good to go. I have read about so many failures because the crate motor was just installed with out an inspection and the owner was left with nothing but a bunch of scrap metal. 383's are a great motor and a lot can be accomplished with them. I would say, keep it, stroke it, lighten it up with lighter weight components and drive to heck out of it...JM2Cents...cr8crshr/Bill

 

[halojumper]

As far as I know, the only place that offers a big block mopar crate engine is CME,Carolina machine engines, and I'm not sure they still do. Do your due diligence, find out if they offer what you want, and check reputation . I have no personal experience with them.
Blueprint offers a 408 crate small block, but that would require a small block trans, and a bunch of other mods.

They still offer 383 big block crate motors.

 

[Budnicks]

what kind of build are you going after ?
is it going to be a dedicated drag car ?
what's it's intended usage ?

you could build a nice low deck
(even a 383, 400 blocks are stronger & you get a few more cid's)
street-able 500hp at the crank
with available parts, pretty easily, with the right stuff

your actual 'budget' depends on a lot of it

depends on what kind of build you want
pro-touring, resto-mod, a stop sign to stop light street beast,
a race car with license plates, an open road tour-er

what kind of attitude the build has
& what you consider tolerable,
style of camshaft, valve-train/cylinder-heads capability (is huge),
so is what type of induction (carb/s or EFI etc.)
proper gearing, proper converter selection (automatic) etc.
for drive-ability of it's all for not

what kind of parts you have already,
like your current "ported' alum heads, camshaft & inductions
ignition & fuel delivery will play a big part in a dependable 500hp too
& if they suit what you are trying/intended on doing

lots of things to consider