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Cutting Input Shaft?

dodge68charger

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I Found Some Threads That Say To Cut Off About 5/8” on a 383..

Nothing For A 440..

Any Help Would Be Great. Thanks
 
Question, are you running a pilot bushing or a roller bearing?
 
Depends on the crank. If manual no cut needed. If auto 5/8". The bronze pilot will not fit in the auto crank. The hole is not large enough in diameter. I have cut the input shaft before and a hacksaw would not do it. Wither you want to use the bushing or bearing will be your choice.
 
4A1FB878-038D-4DFE-8150-F2E68DFD418D.jpeg
 
I Tried To Slide The Input Shaft In The Transmission but its almost An 1 1/8” out Seems Loke
 
I Tried To Slide The Input Shaft In The Transmission but its almost An 1 1/8” out Seems Loke
The bearing I purchased from brewers they include directions on how to address the input shaft......
 
I Tried To Slide The Input Shaft In The Transmission but its almost An 1 1/8” out Seems Loke
You positive there is not also a front transmission bearing retainer diameter problem also. If to big the retainer will not go into the bellhousing and hold the transmission out also. I have had a few cranks drilled. Anything over 5/8" of drill depth will cut into the oil gallery. Not a good thing to have happen.
 
Depends on the crank. If manual no cut needed. If auto 5/8". The bronze pilot will not fit in the auto crank. The hole is not large enough in diameter. I have cut the input shaft before and a hacksaw would not do it. Wither you want to use the bushing or bearing will be your choice.
The hole is not big enough for the proper manual bushing, BUT there is an undersized (.915") bushing designed to fit the undersized bore on automatic cranks. Some are deep enough to use this...it worked on my 1969 440. I found this out when trying to insert the regular sized.
https://alsrapidtransit.blogspot.com/2012/11/als-rapid-transit-mopar-pilot-bushing.html
 
I've never seen an auto crank that would take it all. I cut my first one about 5/8" around 40+ years ago to fit the reduced depth and used an undersized OD bushing as Photon notes above as a pilot bushing.

Putting my Bee back together and mating it's #'s match trans back into her in the past few years I had to use the roller bearing shown above, as it's one of the transmissions that I'd cut to put in another car many moons ago and it didn't have enough input shaft remaining to reach the OE pilot bushing anymore. Anymore than 5/8 to 3/4" max cut off and you'd have no input shaft left to be a guide point.
beerestoration2017 067.JPG
 
I wish I had the bushing od dimensions handy. Chrysler use to make two different sizes. I used the smaller on the first 383 drill job with the idea it could always be made larger if ever needed. That bushing was no longer available last time I replaced it and had to machine down the larger available one. I still have a 383 auto crank that has never been touched that can be measured if the dimensions would be of any value.
 
Why are people so afraid to have a proper machine shop machine the end of a crank, install the correct bronze bushing and have it all correct. Is it laziness, too much money, lack of knowledge, I dont get it. The factory did it a certain way, over all the years for a reason. No , it cant be done at home, and be aligned correct, and dont forget to dial in the bellhousing to the crank.
 
Why are people so afraid to have a proper machine shop machine the end of a crank, install the correct bronze bushing and have it all correct. Is it laziness, too much money, lack of knowledge, I dont get it. The factory did it a certain way, over all the years for a reason. No , it cant be done at home, and be aligned correct, and dont forget to dial in the bellhousing to the crank.
Finding a shop willing to chuck a complete engine into a lath or disassembling and engine just to remove the crank are the two biggest barriers I can think of. The lack of real information by those that don't understand the need for it being done. Instead just using the quick fix is a obstacle in its self. Just have to look no farther than this thread in its self. Hope that sheds some insight.
 
Why are people so afraid to have a proper machine shop machine the end of a crank, install the correct bronze bushing and have it all correct. Is it laziness, too much money, lack of knowledge, I dont get it. The factory did it a certain way, over all the years for a reason. No , it cant be done at home, and be aligned correct, and dont forget to dial in the bellhousing to the crank.
A rather cutting post........

Some people do not want to run the pilot bushing and desire to run the roller bearing. There is no harm either way but it appears to bother you.....

To state it’s lazy, to much money or lack of knowledge is a pissant comment and benefits no one here......
 
Directly from Brewers.

unnamed.jpg
 
I've never seen an auto crank that would take it all......

Here's a 440 auto out of a '68 block. The bushing area is not opened up....

upload_2019-11-18_15-21-6.png


What I came up with using that crank and an uncut input...…...

upload_2019-11-18_15-23-36.png
 
Buy the undersized OD pilot bushing like has already been mentioned. It is for the auto (not finish honed) crankshaft.

I’m not a fan of adding tiny roller bearings anywhere. I know that’s the “fix” when the crankshaft isn’t drilled or someone doesn’t want to take the time to buy and install the undersized pilot bushing.

I didn’t want to wack the input shaft down, so I used the undersized pilot.
 
You can see the bushing in these pics. Also, important to dial in the bellhousing for runout as has been mentioned.

F96A5847-D655-4AA6-B69C-8527D62E55F0.jpeg A0E61A76-11F9-4F79-9305-08DD4DE467A9.jpeg F4350C01-CCDD-4A8A-BE27-E149CE70B845.jpeg
 
I've been using the roller bearing for 16 years. Donor icrank is from a 1976 360 auto. It was not necessary to cut the input shaft. Never had an issue.
Doug
 
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