Dana 60 help!

[440plus6]

I recently took my 69 Charger out for its spring shakedown run, went about 20 miles in total. Roughly halfway through, I heard what I can only describe as a "growling" sound coming from the rear of the car. I was likely traveling over 65 MPH, I left off the throttle and it lasted a few seconds until I slowed down and went away, this continued every time I got up to around 65 MPH. I can only say, it sounded like a jake brake on a diesel, but not as loud if that makes sense. I have the original Dana in my car with the 3.54 gears still in it. I had serviced the dana a year or two ago with new fluids, so am I wrong in thinking this a wheel bearing? My mechanic friend believes the Dana possibly was contaminated previously, as when I purchased the car, PO had the wrong fluid in the rearend and it was obviously making noise once warm, but once all was changed the noise subsided. Also, the noise at that time seems different than this time.
Would appreciate any advice/direction/knowledge. Is there a good way to evaluate the bearings that would give me a strong indication?
Thanks
RG

 

[fbs63]

Sounds like no or little bearing preload or worn out pinion bearings. Remove the ring gear carrier and check the pinion gear rotation. If you spin it should rotate 1/2 to 3/4 turn. If it spins freely its bearing preload or worn bearings. Could also be incorrect setup originally. You should be able to see that on the ring gear.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Check u-joints, backlash by moving yoke back and forth.
I doubt it's this but I had a noise like a loud rattle at 65 mph with a 3.54 Dana. It was rear tailshaft bushing. Should be only .003 to .006 clearance.

 

[pnora]

Fluid will not cause noises. Fluid will not make noises go away. If there was a noise you have bearing or set up problems. If you had noises before they needed to be corrected.

 

[wagonman]

Get the car up to speed where the noise is. If it changes with off and on throttle look at pinion bearings. If constant look at side carrier bearings or axle bearings. Hope you have the OEM tapered axle bearings and not Greens. Time to pull the cover and look for sparkle's in the fluid. All the other suggestions like the trans bushing ect. Did it have the noise before you put it up for the winter?

 

[440plus6]

Get the car up to speed where the noise is. If it changes with off and on throttle look at pinion bearings. If constant look at side carrier bearings or axle bearings. Hope you have the OEM tapered axle bearings and not Greens. Time to pull the cover and look for sparkle's in the fluid. All the other suggestions like the trans bushing ect. Did it have the noise before you put it up for the winter?

No noise at the end of the season. The noise does change with throttle off and on. The noise significantly decreases as the car slows. The car is naturally loud from exhaust/headers etc, but this is new and has me spooked. I have a big dollar motor being assembled as we speak and installing a Tremec TKX as well, and here I go with a rearend noise and even a slight vibration I might say. But like I stated earlier, it doesn't act up when cold, only once warmed up and rolling pretty good.

 

[padam]

My guess is U-joints

 

[440plus6]

My guess is U-joints

Is there a solid way to verify they are the culprit? Or is it what Fran Blacker suggested with the yoke?

 

[440plus6]

Get the car up to speed where the noise is. If it changes with off and on throttle look at pinion bearings. If constant look at side carrier bearings or axle bearings. Hope you have the OEM tapered axle bearings and not Greens. Time to pull the cover and look for sparkle's in the fluid. All the other suggestions like the trans bushing ect. Did it have the noise before you put it up for the winter?

OEM tapered better than Green for replacement. I see Dr Diff has a kit that I can order and offers both options. Thoughts?

 

[RJRENTON]

OEM tapered better than Green for replacement. I see Dr Diff has a kit that I can order and offers both options. Thoughts?

Do yourself a favor and stay with the Timken tapered roller bearing....exactly what Chrysler designed.....
BOB RENTON

 

[padam]

Is there a solid way to verify they are the culprit? Or is it what Fran Blacker suggested with the yoke?

Shake them, or take the driveshaft out. If they are bad it should be obvious.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'd check the front yoke rear trans bushing but don't it would just appear. Easy to check.

 

[AR67GTX]

On the yoke/bushing check, be sure to move it up and down. On my Satellite it didn’t have too much side to side play. But up and down was about as loose as a Muncie input shaft. Gravity I guess.

 

[440plus6]

I know this has been discussed, but what is the best gear oil to run in the Dana 60? I am leaning away from any type synthetic or blend, just curious on wt and brands that guys have had excellent results with. As always, thank you and I sincerely appreciate the expertise.

 

[RJRENTON]

I know this has been discussed, but what is the best gear oil to run in the Dana 60? I am leaning away from any type synthetic or blend, just curious on wt and brands that guys have had excellent results with. As always, thank you and I sincerely appreciate the expertise.

To rethorically answer your question "am leaning away from any type synthetic or blend"......WHY RULE OUT A SUPERIOR LUBRICANT? Synthetic lubricants offer excellent viscosity, anti-foam, temperature stable formulation. I've used SAE 85W-90 gear oil, with sure-grip additive or 30+ years in my 4.10:1 Dana 60 in my RS23V0A******, without any difficulties what so ever. If you want a definitive answer, ask a Petroleum Engineer not a "buddy".
BOB RENTON

 

[440plus6]

To rethorically answer your question "am leaning away from any type synthetic or blend"......WHY RULE OUT A SUPERIOR LUBRICANT? Synthetic lubricants offer excellent viscosity, anti-foam, temperature stable formulation. I've used SAE 85W-90 gear oil, with sure-grip additive or 30+ years in my 4.10:1 Dana 60 in my RS23V0A******, without any difficulties what so ever. If you want a definitive answer, ask a Petroleum Engineer not a "buddy".
BOB RENTON

That's fair, Thank you

 

[RemCharger]

80-90.

 

[oldkimmer]

It kinda can depend on the climate. If it’s scorching hot where u are then the heavier the better. Like 140. If moderate climate then 80/90. Some run 75/140. Dino or synthetic works. Othing wrong other either. Kim

 

[dvw]

I'm a big proponent of synthetic fluids. use them in the engine, trans, and axle. That being said the Dana 60 in my racecar is on it's 4th R&P set in 850 passes. It's always had synthetic. I talked to Moser, Strange, Local R&P shop, and a local racer that does R&P work. They all said the same thing. Do not use synthetic fluid. Great for friction and bearings. Not as great on heavy load. On the street it's probably fine but I'll trust the experts. Time will tell as I'm tired of setting up Dana gears every 200-250 passes.
Doug

 

[Photon440]

Don't the ZF differentials in Hellcat vehicles use synthetic?