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Dana 60 ?

popslavaz

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What is the best unit to look for to convert for b body use? Ford-Chevy-Mopar? Also what years best? Just wondered what to look for if (when) I get the bug.
 
My experience says a Dana 60 will give you the durability that can't be matched by other options. You can make an 8 3/4" or 9" Ford pretty stout, but many high priced parts. The Dana 60 is simple, straight forward. I don't worry about the added weight vs the durability.
 
A truck housing is probably going to be your cheapest bet especially if you plan to narrow it and fill it up with aftermarket parts like spool, pro gears and the like but one from a car will work fine all the way into the 10's even with stock axles (axe me how I know that :D) but, one of those units won't be cheap...since it's coming from a car. Plus, the one from a car will have a provision for a pinion snubber (which I do not like) and most of them will have came from a B car. The E body unit will most likely be the most expensive one out there as far as a nice totally stock unit goes.
 
A truck housing is probably going to be your cheapest bet especially if you plan to narrow it and fill it up with aftermarket parts like spool, pro gears and the like but one from a car will work fine all the way into the 10's even with stock axles (axe me how I know that :D) but, one of those units won't be cheap...since it's coming from a car. Plus, the one from a car will have a provision for a pinion snubber (which I do not like) and most of them will have came from a B car. The E body unit will most likely be the most expensive one out there as far as a nice totally stock unit goes.


As Cranky says
I know some guys are getting the Ford DANA, modifying it...
Fact is: these are starting to go up in price also.
Questions to OP:
1. What is your application?
A) Race Car with over 500 HP at the Rear Wheels?

2. Why do you need a DANA or a Currie enterprise FORD 9".
A) have you considered that the 8 3/4" MOPAR was used on 440 Six-Pack auto trans cars and many auto trans Hemis?
B) I have a 1969 date code Dana 60, they are Freaking Huge and Heavy!

3. Have you looked into Dr. Diff?
A) Dr. Diff makes 8 3/4" rears for EVERY application
B) Many of Dr. Diffs 8 3/4" rears are in Strreet/Strip cars
C) If you do not have 500 HP at the rear wheels, I personally believe the DANA is overkill...just saying

You can purchase mine.
 
SB SKI is correct, An 8 3/4 can be made to handle high torque/HP. You need all the correct parts. The Dana 60 is just that much simpler & cheaper to get the strength. The best 8 3/4 will still not match a good Dana 60. I also agree you don't need a Mopar passenger car Dana. I have not run a pinion snubber for many decades. Springs & shocks make the deal work, not a pinion snubber. If you go Dana 60 you never worry about it. IMHO.
 
As Cranky says
I know some guys are getting the Ford DANA, modifying it...
Fact is: these are starting to go up in price also.
Questions to OP:
1. What is your application?
A) Race Car with over 500 HP at the Rear Wheels?

2. Why do you need a DANA or a Currie enterprise FORD 9".
A) have you considered that the 8 3/4" MOPAR was used on 440 Six-Pack auto trans cars and many auto trans Hemis?
B) I have a 1969 date code Dana 60, they are Freaking Huge and Heavy!

3. Have you looked into Dr. Diff?
A) Dr. Diff makes 8 3/4" rears for EVERY application
B) Many of Dr. Diffs 8 3/4" rears are in Strreet/Strip cars
C) If you do not have 500 HP at the rear wheels, I personally believe the DANA is overkill...just saying

You can purchase mine.
Are you talking about the heavy duty 1/2 ton 501 housing? Years ago I bought 22 of those things....all bare. Got one left that I was saving for myself but I still have the one that was in my 10.60 car which is a truck housing. Sold the old ladder bars off of it to a member here.
 
BC82858A-2735-4801-8001-D92F21A53A9C.jpeg
 
The '501' Ford housing uses the same cover but the axle tubes are a bit smaller....2 3/4" iirc but they are still 1/4" thick. I'd have to measure again to make sure but did measure then years back and that's what I remember. You can still weld on brackets etc that's made for a 3" tube when using 1/8" spacers for them.
 
There is a good reason that mopar put a Ford 9” in the newer drag pack challengers. :thumbsup:
 
Get one from a Ford. The Tubes will be 3.125 in diameter so u bolts will be needed and also drill out the shock plates. The tubes are very thick, and you’ll need a very good mig welder to get penetration welding the bearing ends on. I did 2 Dana 60’s not too long ago, 1 for my 470 dart another for my buddies Duster 4 link and both were Ford Dana’s. Use a power lock sure grip with 35 splines and 35 spline axles and you have a really stout rear.
 
What? I’m gonna have to look into that.
 
Well crap, I’m disappointed that they did that.
 
What is the best unit to look for to convert for b body use? Ford-Chevy-Mopar? Also what years best? Just wondered what to look for if (when) I get the bug.

Just call Doctor Diff and order one to fit. If you give him the correct dimensions it will bolt right in.
 
Thanks 5.7 Hemi. That’s what I wanted to know.Any perticuler year we should look for?
 
The 9" Ford is surely lighter. You need the best parts to get the strength. The gear angle has much more friction than a Dana. Do what you want to do. For me, Dana 60 good axles, spool, good bearings & you never break. Good for me.
 
Look at the 72-79 1/2 ton trucks and 3/4 ton trucks.
 
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