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Dana tricks I learned today

dvw

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Did my Dana today. Removed the old cracked no name gear. Installed 4.30 US Pro gear (yes made in the USA) and new Strange 5 series spool. The standard gear uses a 3 series spool. First if someone would do the job correctly for $200 or less it's a bargain. Let me state I'm no Dana expert. This is my 4th Dana. I have worked for over 35 years as a mechanic. Done many 8 3/4, 10 bolt GM, a few 9". Polishing the pinion at the front bearing location was the best 5 minutes spent. This allows the front pinion bearing to slip on. Adding (or removing) pinion shim and preload shim of the same thickness is pretty much linear. There for you can change pinion depth and maintain preload. Adding .005 to one side and removing .005" from the other moves backlash .005". Adding or subtracting .005" on one side only moves backlash about .0025. Changing pinion depth has very little if any effect on backlash once you start getting close. Have your shims laid out and marked so you're not digging through them each time you make a change. Measure your shim pack (don't let me tell you how many preload shims I swapped because I grabbed a .005 instead of a .015"), write it down as you go. The pinion depth tool isn't very accurate. 2nd time I've wasted time using it. Still had to move the pinion shim from .033" to .041". I have slip fit side bearings for mock up of backlash. But the bearings I'm using changed the backlash about .0015". Since backlash was already on the low side the side bearing had to be pressed back off to get it dead on. Strange suggested using a air drill to rotate the pinion when checking pattern. It worked pretty well. I have a hoist so that makes it nice. I do my own stuff because it's fun, I know what my true numbers are, and I'm cheap. Even splurged and bought a zoomy rear cover. The old chrome piece was getting a little rusty. the new part is stiffer, has preload bolts that go against the caps. Looks cool, not sure if it really does anything or not. It is way heavier.
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Doug
 
Excuse me for putting my 2cents in but it looks like your pinion needs to move up towards the centerline of the ring gear a tad.
The pattern is not centered in the ring gear. It might be fine, but under a real-load situation it may be skating off of the
gear and cause noise. The outside of the ring gear is weaker than the middle position and you may break teeth with a
good hookup. Thanks, I'll shut-up now!
 
pattern looks great Doug, also I have the same cover and do my own also.
Russ
 
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Excuse me for putting my 2cents in but it looks like your pinion needs to move up towards the centerline of the ring gear a tad.
The pattern is not centered in the ring gear. It might be fine, but under a real-load situation it may be skating off of the
gear and cause noise. The outside of the ring gear is weaker than the middle position and you may break teeth with a
good hookup. Thanks, I'll shut-up now!
I don't understand what you mean by the center line? Are you talking towards the heel? Toe to heel is what it is once the flank to root is centered. Here's a pic of the marking compound on the gear when it came out of the box. Compare the two.
Doug
 
Gulp, a better man than me! Done a few 8-3/4” but never went past the FSM. Did you need the spreader they show for r&r? Jeff ( pattern looks awesome)
 
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By these pictures, I'm kinda going with xyzzyx on this one too. Your pattern looks way too far to the outside compared to theirs. That pinion needs to come in some. At least that's what I'm seeing by those pictures. Mark
 
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The two pictures have different patterns. Not sure why. Pattern on the left sure looks good. Pattern on right, pinion a little deep. Just my observation.
 
No need for a spreader. Just a soft face to tap the carrier in and a rag, wrench or big bar to get it out. Explain to me what you guys are seeing. The first post is whats there. Deep to me is to far in the root. I don't see that. Are you referring to the coast or drive pattern? Obviously they are different. The fact that the coast side is close to the heel doesn't bother me in the least. The 2nd post is the drive side pattern run at the factory in their machine. Do you see something else I don't?
Doug
 
I like your pattern for a med weight car,600 horse ,and consistent traction,not spin and hook tracks.l have light cars ,standard hp&eddyvilles consistent taction
 
That's the tool I used. Easy to set the pinion to the desired marking. However the pattern hasn't been correct when I used it.
Doug
 
I think the guys that are describing the pattern as being toward the heel side are looking at the pics of the backside of the gear. The drive side looks spot on Doug, which in my experience (with 8-3/4’s) is usually going to put the backside a little toward the heel. Send it!
 
As long as the backlash is around .005-.008 and rotational torque is around 20-23 inch pounds, I’d run it.
 
I have the same cover
I bought that same diff cover to replace my chrome cover I got from Mancini. No issues with the chrome cover, but I like the look and possible strength benefits of the Ultimate 60 cover.
Now I just have to install it. Lol
 
Looks good. I also bought the same cover but milled the logo off of mine since I don't advertise anyone's products on my car and painted black for that stock look.
 
So you don't get $20 from the manufacturer for every photo you send them of your car at a show? Darn!
:lol:

Nope, and I don't take or send any manufacturers pictures of my cars. I weld up, grind off, machine off or peel off all of the decals. Even had my Kirkey seat covers custom ordered with no embroidery of their logo on the head rest area, custom ordered my Moroso vac pump & pulleys anodized with no logo's, etc.
 
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