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Dark Blue power wire feeding Ballast resistor question?

zyzzyx

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Hello All, I have a 68 GTX and am wondering if the DkBl wire that feeds the Ballast resistor stays hot while the car
is running? I believe it does, as the other side of the resistor goes to the +side of the coil. The reason I'm asking is
I'm doing alot of wiring mods, and I need a 12V source for the Denso alternator that I have added. I already deleted
the voltage regulator with no wires going to and from it, but am keeping it in place so it doesn't look so bare. Thanks
for the help!
 
The blue wire is hot in run only. It goes dead during crank. The brown wire at the ballast is hot in crank only. The brown wire is dead in run. If its geting aftermarket ignition, MSD etc. Tie the brown and blue together. Then you will have a circuit that is hot in run and crank, but dead with the key off.
Doug
 
The blue wire is hot in run only. It goes dead during crank. The brown wire at the ballast is hot in crank only. The brown wire is dead in run. If its geting aftermarket ignition, MSD etc. Tie the brown and blue together. Then you will have a circuit that is hot in run and crank, but dead with the key off.
Doug
66 Charger now using Pertronix ign box and coil, so original blue and brown not being used, and since they are in the the female plug? Does that mean the blue still has to be hooked up to ??? or simply connecting at ignition switch/ will do that. as of now I have my voltage source for firing but still use key to crank ?? My ECU is FAST 303000 thanks
 
The blue and brown both feed from the ignition switch itself. You need both tied together. They can be picked up at the switch or at the plug. Another option. Use a seperate kill switch fed from any battery source that remains hot with the key off. Now the car will crank with the key. But the key will not control the ignition. The new switch will contol running and shut off.
Doug
 
The blue and brown both feed from the ignition switch itself. You need both tied together. They can be picked up at the switch or at the plug. Another option. Use a seperate kill switch fed from any battery source that remains hot with the key off. Now the car will crank with the key. But the key will not control the ignition. The new switch will contol running and shut off.
Doug
That is how I am doing it now, thanks for the reply :)
The blue wire is hot in run only. It goes dead during crank. The brown wire at the ballast is hot in crank only. The brown wire is dead in run. If its geting aftermarket ignition, MSD etc. Tie the brown and blue together. Then you will have a circuit that is hot in run and crank, but dead with the key off.
Doug
thanks for the input :)
 
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