Dashboard light

[BABYBLUECORONET]

Hey guys, dashboard is dark on my 66' Coronet 440. Can't tell for sure if it was like that when I bought it or not. I've only had it a little while and hadn't driven it at night. I did not get any history with this car which sucks but before I start tearing things apart is there anyone that can tell me how to simply change out the dash lights? Does it require pulling he whole dash? Also, are there LED lights for the dash I can buy? How about the dome lights in the back seat? Thanks guys.

 

[Mackman]

The dash was dark on my 67 Coronet when I brought it home. All the dash lamps were shot. I found the easiest fix was to pull the instrument panel. Not difficult. As I recall, you pull the radio knobs, remove 4 or six screws, slide the dash to the right, unplug electrical, and its out. Check a service manual.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No need to remove the cluster, but depending on the car model the sockets could be hard to reach from underneath up to back of the cluster specially with big hands.

IMHO the regular incandescent bulbs use to be enough, but lot of ppl preffer nowdays leds. Not my taste but is at each own. Be sure to get dimmable leds. A company called superbrightleds offers those and seems to be latelly the preffered option.

If getting leds, I would get warm white leds ( 2500-3000K ). Cold white ( over 5000K ) will wash the original lense blue color, which uses to be greenish due the yellow shadow of the warm light provides. With leds mostly sure will be more blueish, still being warm light.

 

[toolmanmike]

And remember, LED's need to be polarity correct. If you put them in backwards they won't work. Just sayin'.

 

[493 Mike]

Is the fuse OK? The rheostat on the headlamp switch could be corroded/broken also.
Mike

 

[BABYBLUECORONET]

No need to remove the cluster, but depending on the car model the sockets could be hard to reach from underneath up to back of the cluster specially with big hands.

IMHO the regular incandescent bulbs use to be enough, but lot of ppl preffer nowdays leds. Not my taste but is at each own. Be sure to get dimmable leds. A company called superbrightleds offers those and seems to be latelly the preffered option.

If getting leds, I would get warm white leds ( 2500-3000K ). Cold white ( over 5000K ) will wash the original lense blue color, which uses to be greenish due the yellow shadow of the warm light provides. With leds mostly sure will be more blueish, still being warm light.

That's a good point, don't want the dash screaming at me although I don't see me driving this too much at night. I would still like to be able to see the gauges and also need to check out if I have a short or not. Thanks

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Don't get confused between temperature light and power. Althought is true cold white ( higher temp light ) uses to look more powerfull, it is not necesarilly on that way, but just a perception caused by the color emited. But is true a warm light ( lower temp light ) won't scream in your face.

 

[Rusty 72]

Like someone mentioned above the LEDs only go in one way. I usually replace them one at a time so I know I have them directional the correct way and they light up before I move on to the next. Good luck!

 

[1carlover]

And remember, LED's need to be polarity correct. If you put them in backwards they won't work. Just sayin'.

Im having the same issue with my 67 Coronet with no dash lights. The updated circuit board is installed and lights did work

 

[AR67GTX]

Could be a bad ground too. Ground path on these instrument panels is kind of torturous - from circuit board to instrument housing by screws, to metal plate on top oh housing (at least on Ply) to screws through it connecting the housing to the dash frame. Try rigging up a jumper from one of the screws securing the printed circuit and the other end to the dash frame.

 

[1carlover]

Could be a bad ground too. Ground path on these instrument panels is kind of torturous - from circuit board to instrument housing by screws, to metal plate on top oh housing (at least on Ply) to screws through it connecting the housing to the dash frame. Try rigging up a jumper from one of the screws securing the printed circuit and the other end to the dash frame.

I'll try and hook up a ground jumper wire and see if that helps. I hardly ever take the car out in the dark and the dash lights did work just not very bright.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I'll try and hook up a ground jumper wire and see if that helps. I hardly ever take the car out in the dark and the dash lights did work just not very bright.

Could also be the rheostat in your light switch being corroded.

 

[1carlover]

Could also be the rheostat in your light switch being corroded.

Its a new replacement switch. Also just tried externally grounding the circuit board and it didnt make a difference. Thanks for your input.

 

[glenns hc]

You’ll have to take the radio out , take the steering column hardware out drop the column down , unclip the speedo cable and take the screws out of the cluster , be very careful pulling it forward , you maybe able to get your hands back there to remove and replace the bulbs, there are 7-8 bulbs fir the Speedo and gages . If you can’t get to them your going to have to unclip everything and take the panel out .

 

[1 Wild R/T]

You asked....

 

[matthon]

A few things that worked for me:
Turning the light switch knob back and forth, multiple times, over a drive or two.

Grounding circuit boards, I actually built a small harness that has a number of ground wires to the instrument panel to a welded bolt on the firewall.

Replacing both flashers with a solid state one from NAPA, it was like $15 a pop. Fixed my weak directionals, they flash like a new car, and dash lights stopped dimming when directional on.

 

[Mackman]

Another easy fix, just carry a penlight.

 

[Jc cooper]

A few things that worked for me:
Turning the light switch knob back and forth, multiple times, over a drive or two.
Actually, this extra grounding wire is something, that I added to my 67Gtx , during its restoration, just for added insurance! And I proved to be beneficial! Just saying, never enough grounds , on old cars ! JC
Grounding circuit boards, I actually built a small harness that has a number of ground wires to the instrument panel to a welded bolt on the firewall.

Replacing both flashers with a solid state one from NAPA, it was like $15 a pop. Fixed my weak directionals, they flash like a new car, and dash lights stopped dimming when directional on.

 

[1carlover]

I was fortunate to find a local mechanic to help me track down the cause of no dash lights. I bench tested the cluster with installed leds bulbs and made sure all bulbs were lighting. I reinstalled the cluster and still no dash lights but now im just blowing fuses in the light circuit. in short we have determined that the problem is someplace in the headlight and flasher wiring. We have tested and traced and replaced switches and relays but still can't determine where the problem area is. Ill be ordering a new dash harness in the morning.