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Denso Starter install on my 440

zyzzyx

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I know we've talked about this endlessly, but I just want to post some pic's of how this
little guy fits on my 440 with Hooker Adjustables. I bought two re-builts from a vendor
on FleaBay. One for a spare if I ever need it!
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I know we've talked about this endlessly, but I just want to post some pic's of how this
little guy fits on my 440 with Hooker Adjustables. I bought two re-builts from a vendor
on FleaBay. One for a spare if I ever need it!View attachment 1345909View attachment 1345910View attachment 1345911View attachment 1345912View attachment 1345913View attachment 1345914View attachment 1345916View attachment 1345917
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see the headers you referred to in the pic....
Post a pic with them installed so we can see the clearance.
 
wait, what are adjustable hookers?

are we talking about headers? if so post a picture!

because no way that starter would fit with my super comps
 
wait, what are adjustable hookers?

are we talking about headers? if so post a picture!

because no way that starter would fit with my super comps
"Adjustable" hookers are the ones you find only between 3 and 5am
:rofl:
 
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The "Hooker Adjustables" are from an era gone by! Bought them new in the eighties and
sent them off to Jet Hot and had them coated right away. And I didn't mention that I also
replaced the electrical terminal with the trick ninety degree thingy from Mancini Racing.
 
I usually remove the adapter and connect straight to the studs on the starter.
 
Thats interesting, cause I have what looks to be the same 2" hooker adjustables too, and I tried to use the Mopar Performance mini starter. I couldn't make it fit (yes I know about removing the 90° adapter). One of the header tubes runs right through where the mini wants to be.....
Still using that heavy old GR starter with the Mopar sound.
Edit: bought mine used in the eighties, (at the OCIR swap meet) and theyve been on the car since (repaired a few times, modded for a street exhaust with home-made flanges, bent em up a bit to get the collectors even, and closer to the floor).
 
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I'd have to go look to verify, but I'll be damn if that isn't more room than I have with my TTIs...and I have a 20-year "vintage" Powermaster starter, which *should* be about the same size as the Denso.
One big tube going through the wheelwell tends to help with starter clearance, lol.
 
Yeah, any suggestions on an insulator sleeve I could "Slide" on? I bought a Hooker Blackheart 304 Stainless system
for my "X" and will build the system starting at the back and moving foward. My idea is to use stainless V-Band clamps
from the 2-1/2" pipes to the 3-1/2" collectors. I think the V-Band clamps work better than the bolt together flanges.
 
I didn't go through the header tubes but through the back from the firewall. Requires a longer cable, no adapter needed. Need to trim a couple of threads off the main terminal for block clearance.
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Summit handles all kinds of foil sleeves for wiring. It's what I used on my shifter cable.
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I used this one. It's fiberglass like DEI but cheaper. It has hook and loop so you can place it on the cable without removing one end.

A-Team Performance - Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Shield Protection Barrier with Hook and Loop Closure - 1" x 36" (3ft), 500 degrees F direct and 2000 degrees F radiant heat https://a.co/d/acYyWiz
 
I got the 9523 Powermaster unit as it was one of the ones TTI said to use. I used all 4 positions on it and this was the best for my combo. I'm glad it was all on my cradle and not in the car. Had to take the Borgeson box off to remove the headers. In the second photo you can see that one tube needed an adjustment courtesy of Eastwood.

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Wow, So many header differences from different manufacturers! You would think they would be able to clear the few
tight spots when designing them? I checked mine out on my cradle too so I wouldn't have any unpleasant surprises.
 
One of the reasons I ordered mine uncoated. I got the units for my application, engine wise[ Indy low deck wedge w aluminum block] but since there are variances due to my mounting to the k-frame[ Shumacher units to 70 unit] and the usual production issues, I figured there would need to be some massaging done. And there was. Probably not as much of an issue on iron block applications.
 
Wow, So many header differences from different manufacturers! You would think they would be able to clear the few
tight spots when designing them? I checked mine out on my cradle too so I wouldn't have any unpleasant surprises.
Have you cut the holes in your inner fenders yet?
 
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