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Differential yoke - what’s up with this?

AR67GTX

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Installing new seal in differential, bushing & seal in trans and new u- joints - Dana rear.

When I pulled the driveshaft out the caps were through bolted at the differential yoke with nuts on the bolts. When I look in the holes they are clearly and cleanly threaded as I would expect for strap bolts (no nuts). The replacement bolts in the strap kit I bought are 1/4” and slide right in without engaging the threads. Looks like the bolts/nuts that were in it are 1/4” too. Tried a 5/16” fine thread bolt in it and it’s too big to engage. Also tried a couple thread chaser taps in 1/4” and 5/16” with same results. Only thing I can figure is possibly a 9/32” bolt (?) or metric. I have a hard time believing it’s an obscure 9/32” bolt that I can’t find or metric.

Anyone else run into this and figure it out? Guess I can re-use the old bolts/nuts that look to be grade 5 but would rather use a proper bolt or possibly replace the yoke since it will be out too.
 
would love to see a pic.
 
I’ll get one in a little bit.
 
Maybe the threads were stripped in the yoke and somebody drilled them out and put thru bolts with nuts in place of the 1/4" bolts originally in there.
 
Maybe the threads were stripped in the yoke and somebody drilled them out and put thru bolts with nuts in place of the 1/4" bolts originally in there.
Had to do that to a Jeep.
 
1st photo - Yoke in Dana. 2nd photo - threads in yoke - definitely not drilled out. 3rd photo - 1/4” bolt that was used with straps slid into threaded hole to past start of unthreaded shank. Bolts about 1-1/2” long.
64C5AACF-8485-4135-A874-638D2D9B93F6.jpeg
6D7CC2AB-9947-49D5-AC2F-0233702E2C75.jpeg
3125D175-D044-46B0-89FE-30DEAC10E982.jpeg


Any idea what’s going on with it?
 
No u-bolts, used caps with bolts. The pads are typical of those using caps. Don’t think it’s drilled out or they would logically have drilled and then tapped for a bolt available such as a 5/16”. It’s well tapped, thread cuts are deep, but not sure what for.

If it’s 7mm (unlikely) it’s pretty much as rare as finding a 9/32” bolt.

Probably buy a new yoke. What’s another $150 after thousands?
 
That yoke looks exactly like the one in the 489 sure grip I have. I don’t have a bolt sizing tool but I do have a tap and die set I can check the threads with if need be.
16BBD2D8-E917-4C16-BE4C-2300DE4EC149.jpeg
EBC6108B-1B9D-4650-9619-0404BB3F574E.jpeg
 
Went ahead and ordered this from Brewers.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=PY9756

Seems to look just like the one I have. I’ll have to compare them when it gets here to see if it sheds any light on the mystery.

Also, I’ll give Brewers a big thumbs up for their customer service. I’ve ordered from them 3 times now and they always respond promptly and get orders shipped out immediately. A good company IMO.
 
That yoke looks exactly like the one in the 489 sure grip I have. I don’t have a bolt sizing tool but I do have a tap and die set I can check the threads with if need be. View attachment 1280322View attachment 1280323
Some one modified it. The straps are already inherently weak, and enlarging the hole makes them weaker. The larger 7/16 head makes it hard to get a wrench fully seated.
 
Some one modified it. The straps are already inherently weak, and enlarging the hole makes them weaker. The larger 7/16 head makes it hard to get a wrench fully seated.
I guess what I meant by my post was if needed I can get the correct size bolt information if someone needs to know what exactly that thread pattern is. I forgot my tap and die set has a thread pitch tool.
 
Some drilled yoke on my Dana. They bought billet cup holders and 5/16" allen bolts, nuts and lock washers. I change nuts to grade 8 with fiber lock nuts.
 
I've done that to a couple over the years.....and used to be you could buy a yoke girdle (heard they were weak though) that came with longer bolts to go all the way though both the girdle and the yoke.
 
Spicer makes yokes like that I have one for a 10 spline 8 3/4 with a 1350 u-joint. I believe mine are 5/16. Are you sure the threads aren't boogered from the through bolts wallowing a bit.
Guess it does not matter, you have a new one on the way.
 
If it has been functioning fine, I would have just replaced the grade fives with grade eight socket head capscrews, and some grade eight nuts.
 
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