Disc brake conversion and sway bar issues on 1969 B-bodies

[hunt2elk]

I'm thinking of converting my 69 Charger from power drum brakes to manual disc on front. I was reading the tech artical in Mopar Action by Richard Endenberg (sic)? He made a note that on 68 and 69 B-bodies that use the front sway bar and end links like mine, there will be a problem with clearance. He stated that either the bar had to be converted to a 70 and newer style B-body or an E body style. He was using a 11 3/4" rotor from a junkyard. I don't want to make this change as I already have the bar and brackets. All the newer kits seem to come with a 11" rotor. Does this alleviate the problem? Have any of you made this conversion?

 

[moparmarks]

Common problem on 66-69B conversion. To use the 70-2B/E bar means changing the K-frame. Alot of people just swap the spindles side to side thus mounting the calipers to the rear and clearing the bar.

 

[YY1]

You gotta take "E-Berg" for what he is- an Engineer.

He's REAL smart, but sometimes overlooks some simple, practical solutions because they are not 100% technically "correct" or not the absolute optimum configuration.

 

[moparmarks]

Soooo true.

 

[hunt2elk]

Common problem on 66-69B conversion. To use the 70-2B/E bar means changing the K-frame. Alot of people just swap the spindles side to side thus mounting the calipers to the rear and clearing the bar.

So the spindle swap is all I have to do and all will be fine with no ill effects?

 

[moparmarks]

Yes but finding the right brake hose is the trick. Can't right off hard remember which one works.

 

[hunt2elk]

Hey Mark, I don't know why it can't ever be easy for me and these cars. Of all the reading I have done the past week, this is the first mention of this problem I have come across. Let me know if you remember the hose part #'s.

 

[YY1]

My 66 sway bar tabs are near the LBJ.

Are yours there or in the middle of the LCA?

I used 86 5th Ave sliders (and spindles) but had to use 73 and up B body hoses, which are MUCH better than either the 66 or 86 hoses, but not quite perfect.

 

[hunt2elk]

My 66 sway bar tabs are near the LBJ.

Are yours there or in the middle of the LCA?

I used 86 5th Ave sliders (and spindles) but had to use 73 and up B body hoses, which are MUCH better than either the 66 or 86 hoses, but not quite perfect.

Mine should be the same as yours. By sliders are you talking about the caliper brackets?

 

[YY1]

Calipers and brackets.

...versus "pin" style.

Apparently there are different locations for the hoses to attach to, and finding a hose that gives an acceptable departure angle and does not contact the LCA or sway bar on a full lock turn is tricky.

 

[hunt2elk]

So how did the factory get around the problem when the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes were optioned on these B-bodies?

 

[CharlieB]

Yes but finding the right brake hose is the trick. Can't right off hard remember which one works.

Volare hoses work just fine- here's my setup using Ebergs article. 5 years and 32,000 miles working fine

 

[moparfanUSA]

nice thread

 

[hunt2elk]

View attachment 104450

Volare hoses work just fine- here's my setup using Ebergs article. 5 years and 32,000 miles working fine

So what year and model master cylinder and prop. valve did you use? The bores in master cylinders are available between 15/16 to 1 1/32 bores. My 1969 service manual shows the factory disc brake cars had 1" bores. Apparently this is a critical piece to the puzzle to get everything working right. Did you go with an adj. prop. valve, or find a factory fixed one that works. I would prefer this style. My rear drums are 11".

 

[YY1]

Sorry for off OP topic but on my 66, the fitting bracket for the hose is vertical, not horizontal, as in the pic above.
The F/M body hose just doesn't work.

...and now back to our regularly scheduled thread...

 

[moparmarks]

Can use a master for a 70-2 A-body with manual disc. Port valve from most factory disc car. Anything 73-up is pretty easy to find as disc were stardard 73-up. Or just Tee the fronts and used an adjustable valve on the rears.

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry for off OP topic but on my 66, the fitting bracket for the hose is vertical, not horizontal, as in the pic above.
The F/M body hose just doesn't work.

...and now back to our regularly scheduled thread...

I think weather you use the pin or the slider styles makes a different too. I'll have to run down to the shop and look at some calipers.

- - - Updated - - -

So how did the factory get around the problem when the Kelsey Hayes disc brakes were optioned on these B-bodies?

Don't remember. Been years since I've owned a factory 66-69 disc brake car.

 

[CharlieB]

So what year and model master cylinder and prop. valve did you use? The bores in master cylinders are available between 15/16 to 1 1/32 bores. My 1969 service manual shows the factory disc brake cars had 1" bores. Apparently this is a critical piece to the puzzle to get everything working right. Did you go with an adj. prop. valve, or find a factory fixed one that works. I would prefer this style. My rear drums are 11".

I used an aluminum MC and an adjustable prop valve. I can find out from my old records who I got it from if I remember right they both cost about $180.00 when done. I can take some pics if you like. I have the 11 in rear drums as well. With the adjustable you can really play with the amount of hold on front/rear.

 

[HawkRod]

So the spindle swap is all I have to do and all will be fine with no ill effects?

So I am not familiar with this type of swap, but the bleeders still need to be at the top of the caliper. I guess the calipers get swapped also to ensure that the bleeders stay at the top of the caliper?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Yep!!