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Disc brake conversion help

67Goldie

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I was wondering if I could convert my 66 Plymouth from 10" drums by bolting on a 73 Plymouth cuda front disc brake setup I have the spindles, rotors, and the calipers complete Assembly is it as simple as just unbolting at upper and lower ball joint and reinstalling the other setup any help would be much appreciated thanks
 
All i have ever seen was '73 A body for disc conversion. I never thought of E body.
 
It will bolt right on, just as you said, but if you plan on running a factory sway bar then the knuckles(spindles) will need to be swapped side to side, so the calipers are toward the rear. If you do this then you will have to modify the hose mounts so the hoses don't rub or twist at any point in steering or suspension travel.
 
 
67Goldie,

I’m doing the same on my ‘66 Belvedere II with a non power dual master cylinder. Curious; did you add proportioning valve to your setup. I’m assuming that’s what I’m needing to do with the block shown in the pic below. I’m scrounging the forums and this seems as good as thread as any to ask the question. Thanks.

IMG_4385.png
 
67Goldie,

I’m doing the same on my ‘66 Belvedere II with a non power dual master cylinder. Curious; did you add proportioning valve to your setup. I’m assuming that’s what I’m needing to do with the block shown in the pic below. I’m scrounging the forums and this seems as good as thread as any to ask the question. Thanks.

View attachment 1497383
That's a basic distribution block.
You want a proportioning valve that isolates front and rear.
 
There are tons of threads on this site addressing that very topic. You would do well to read up on some of them. Not all of the info is gospel but basically you need to swap in the disc rotors and calipers from a 14"wheel car such as the E body you mentioned or the early 80's Aspen / Volare if you want to keep 14" wheels. You also will need to replace the distribution block with a proportion valve. If you now have non power drums, you will need to update the Master cylinder to a non power disc brake master cylinder. If you have Power brakes now, be advised your single diaphragm booster will not provide enough boost to run the front discs. They need twice the boost so you will need to upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster as well. Good luck. Do your homework and you will be golden.
 
Thanks for the responses. For what it’s worth, I’ve scrubbed these forums until cross-eyed trying to figure this out the prop valve/distribution block requirements for my application. I’ve got the front rotors, dual (non boosted MC) and line kit installed. The only thing I’m not grasping is; do I need a distribution block then prop valve after (2 components) or do I need a combo valve? Appreciate the patience and advice.
 
You need to install the proportioning valve in place of the distribution block. The Proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes so they don't lock up before the front discs do. Pretty simple once you get the right combination.
 
You need to install the proportioning valve in place of the distribution block. The Proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes so they don't lock up before the front discs do. Pretty simple once you get the right combination.
This makes sense. In my head I’ve been picturing a proportioning valve as adjustable (with the knob) that is used in conjunction with a distribution block.
Sounds as though I’ve been making it more complicated than it needs to be. Thanks again
 
All you need is an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line, and a tee in the front system( rear reservoir) to split the master cyl. line into two, one for each wheel.
 
All you need is an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line, and a tee in the front system( rear reservoir) to split the master cyl. line into two, one for each wheel.
Even simpler. This is what I will be doing. Thanks for the guidance.
 
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