doing a disc brake swap on my 62 and was wondering is there a co. that had the lines already made up I remember a co. called fine lines that offered a kit but not sure if they still do?
Disc brake conversion
- Thread starter moparsquid
- Start date
AMX364
Well-Known Member
The SSBC kit had the lines in straight form. The problem is custom brakes can not use the same bent lines as a stock disc brake car, especially going from single master to dual. Copied from "brake sticky maybe"
You might have to replace all your brake lines. The single master cylinder uses a multi line connection about 36 inches from the master cylinder. On mine and several others the lines could not be taken off cleanly, rusted on. The line going to the rear brakes is where the adjustable valve should be installed. The line going to the disc brakes(larger size) could run to a 3 way connector. One line to the master cylinder, one line to left and last line to right. The right side line CAN be made with the engine in the car, but is much easier if it is out. The front disc brakes run at full pressure all the time and the rear drums at a reduced pressure.
If you do replace brake lines by yourself, it is not hard to do. You will need a decent flaring tool, but not the top of the line tools. I normally use a very old Snap-On flaring tool. I use the steel brake tubing in a roll from like Eastwood with the fittings. I do not recommend using SS tubing, because it is hard to flare and hard to prevent leaking. It might be good for a pretty if you can buy it pre-bent for your car, but not for custom work. If you are making your own lines start with the hardest line, passenger side along the firewall. Try to use your old lines as a template; the gentle curve across the firewall can take up some extra length. The drivers side has many tight bends, but it really is the easiest to make. The line going to the rear is long, but mostly straight line. On the master cylinders sometimes Mopar will use a 9/16-18 fitting, if not it will be 9/16-20 which is a very common fitting. A assortment of fittings for the master cylinder is useful to have.
Imperial 3/16 bending tool 364-FH-03 about 42 dollars on EBay, this tool is really neat for working brake lines. Clean tight bends, no other bender that I have came anywhere close to this. Read the reviews on what others say about it.
Clamps, Plain AN742-D3 Aluminum http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an742.php
41 cents per clamp, looks very close to what the factory used. I did cheat and pop riveted them in, looks clean. Will be a bear to remove. The rubber mounted line clamps do not live long near oil.
Brake tubing wrap.
Right Stuff Detailing GGS316S-20 - Right Stuff Detailing Gravel Guard Spring Material
Summit Racing® Armor Line Guards SUM-220266----better priced
Bend the lines and before making the last flare, use the spring wrap, leaving spaces to mount the lines and to make that last flare. If done right, you mainly copy how the old lines were run and protected.
You might have to replace all your brake lines. The single master cylinder uses a multi line connection about 36 inches from the master cylinder. On mine and several others the lines could not be taken off cleanly, rusted on. The line going to the rear brakes is where the adjustable valve should be installed. The line going to the disc brakes(larger size) could run to a 3 way connector. One line to the master cylinder, one line to left and last line to right. The right side line CAN be made with the engine in the car, but is much easier if it is out. The front disc brakes run at full pressure all the time and the rear drums at a reduced pressure.
If you do replace brake lines by yourself, it is not hard to do. You will need a decent flaring tool, but not the top of the line tools. I normally use a very old Snap-On flaring tool. I use the steel brake tubing in a roll from like Eastwood with the fittings. I do not recommend using SS tubing, because it is hard to flare and hard to prevent leaking. It might be good for a pretty if you can buy it pre-bent for your car, but not for custom work. If you are making your own lines start with the hardest line, passenger side along the firewall. Try to use your old lines as a template; the gentle curve across the firewall can take up some extra length. The drivers side has many tight bends, but it really is the easiest to make. The line going to the rear is long, but mostly straight line. On the master cylinders sometimes Mopar will use a 9/16-18 fitting, if not it will be 9/16-20 which is a very common fitting. A assortment of fittings for the master cylinder is useful to have.
Imperial 3/16 bending tool 364-FH-03 about 42 dollars on EBay, this tool is really neat for working brake lines. Clean tight bends, no other bender that I have came anywhere close to this. Read the reviews on what others say about it.
Clamps, Plain AN742-D3 Aluminum http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an742.php
41 cents per clamp, looks very close to what the factory used. I did cheat and pop riveted them in, looks clean. Will be a bear to remove. The rubber mounted line clamps do not live long near oil.
Brake tubing wrap.
Right Stuff Detailing GGS316S-20 - Right Stuff Detailing Gravel Guard Spring Material
Summit Racing® Armor Line Guards SUM-220266----better priced
Bend the lines and before making the last flare, use the spring wrap, leaving spaces to mount the lines and to make that last flare. If done right, you mainly copy how the old lines were run and protected.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190829483865?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This gets you from master cylinder to frame rail.
I'm not selling this Not mine.
This gets you from master cylinder to frame rail.
I'm not selling this Not mine.
Yatzee
Well-Known Member
I agree somewhat with AMX364 but regardless weather you use steel or Cupranickel line, do not buy it in a roll. God forbid, you can never get the line straight. Steel bends of smaller radii are a bitch and no one should put themselves through that, not with the newer easier to bend lines made of softer alloys. Try making a 1/2 radius bend with steel line and you'll know all there is to know about steel lines. These are the best tube tools money can buy:
http://imperial-tools.com/products/tube-bender
and this is the best flaring tool on the market but not cheap:
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Now when friends ask me to redo their brake lines, it's a pleasure. They've paid for themselves five times over.
Fixable
Member
I recently used a kit from Pirate Jack, single piston calipers with drilled and slotted rotors. Very happy with the all the parts and install.
I bought brake lines for my 65 Belvedere from The Right Stuff, www.getdiscbrakes.com that fit a dual master cylinder/disc brake conversion. They fit perfectly, even bought braided brake hoses from them that fit perfect.
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This is all you need to convert to a dual mastercylinder. Don't know what you might need for the front disk setup. Depends on what you end up installing. These are by Finelines and you use the original T block.
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