Disc Brake Master Cylinder Conversion for Max Wedge

[VANDAN]

I was down in NC to check on my '63 Dodge, as it is in the paint shop now. I was looking at a real '63 MW that was also in the shop at present time. I am concerned about the fitment of the dual bowl master cylinder needed for disc brakes, while using the original style Max Wedge exhaust manifolds. Looks like it will be a very tight fit for it, and also really close for heat problems. I'd really like some feedback from anyone who's tried this, and hopefully succeeded in their build. Thanks

 

[91r/t]

Man Dan you are correct, that sure does look like it'll be a tight fit, if it fits at all. All the pics I could find were max wedge cars with disc brakes and headers and not the stock high rise manifolds. I'll keep looking and see if anything pops up.

 

[65hemi]

I believe the max wedge cars came with a heat shield under the mc. You can buy or make one.
http://www.kramerauto.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M5-BR-008&cat=7

 

[Darter6]

Though not needed on this car, here is a photo of a 64 Max Wedge master cylinder heat shield for reference.

 

[VANDAN]

View attachment 673469 Though not needed on this car, here is a photo of a 64 Max Wedge master cylinder heat shield for reference.It's one from Kramer Automotive.

Hey D6, that is the master cylinder I had planned on using. The problem is with the Max Wedge exhaust manifolds, I may not have the clearance to fit the set up in there. I just found a MP set up in the catalog, and wondering if anyone has used it ? These are some part #'s from it: Mas/cyl- P5249271, Heat shield- P4510634, Offset master cyl adapter- P5249717. My thought is to raise the master cylinder enough, to miss any contact with the exhaust manifold. 1/2"-1" would be enough room, I believe, so hoping this may be my answer ? ? ?

 

[MW 413]

This may help you. I just went through this with my 62 Belvedere Max Wedge. I'm running Willwood 4 wheel disc brakes. I had a 1"bore master cyl for 4 wheel manual drum brake 67-69 B Body set up on it. Brakes were OK but pedal was hard and was hard to stop quickly. Went to this(in photo) Raybestos MC36406 (73-76 A Body w/frt manual disc brakes) with a 15/16"bore and now have good pedal feel and much better stopping. This MC also has groove in rod hole to lock it in place for manual brake stock push rod with rubber grommet. Clearance with Maxie manifolds is good. I made my own heat shield out of bright finish tin sheet stock and mounted it to the lower 2 firewall reinforcing plate bolts under the MC. (500+ degs. at exh manifold and 130 degs. at master cyl). Heat shield really works well. Don't use the stock OE heat shield as its only for the old single resivoir MC and will not be long enough.

 

[Darter6]

VanDan, I think MW 413's the way to go.

 

[MW 413]

FYI; That Raybestos MC36406 master cyl was new, not reman at Rock Auto for about $42.00.

 

[MW 413]

Almost forgot. If using the MC36406 you must drill or melt a hole through the rubber check valve in the front outlet port. Its there because this cyl is for a rear drum brake set up. The rubber check valve holds 2 psi residual pressure for drum brakes. You don't want any residual pressure held in the line for rear disc brakes. I usually just heat a small drill bit up to cherry red and stick it in the outlet brass seat hole and melt a hole in the rubber check valve behind it. That way there is no need to pull and drive the brass seat out and back in. This goes any time you are using a drum brake MC for a disc brake application.

 

[bearman]

View attachment 673469 Though not needed on this car, here is a photo of a 64 Max Wedge master cylinder heat shield for reference.It's one from Kramer Automotive.

Darter6 would you have the part number for the shield or can it be made out of 1/4 plate.

 

[VANDAN]

This may help you. I just went through this with my 62 Belvedere Max Wedge. I'm running Willwood 4 wheel disc brakes. I had a 1"bore master cyl for 4 wheel manual drum brake 67-69 B Body set up on it. Brakes were OK but pedal was hard and was hard to stop quickly. Went to this(in photo) Raybestos MC36406 (73-76 A Body w/frt manual disc brakes) with a 15/16"bore and now have good pedal feel and much better stopping. This MC also has groove in rod hole to lock it in place for manual brake stock push rod with rubber grommet. Clearance with Maxie manifolds is good. I made my own heat shield out of bright finish tin sheet stock and mounted it to the lower 2 firewall reinforcing plate bolts under the MC. (500+ degs. at exh manifold and 130 degs. at master cyl). Heat shield really works well. Don't use the stock OE heat shield as its only for the old single resivoir MC and will not be long enough.

View attachment 673493 View attachment 673494

This looks to be just what the Dr ordered. Just wondering if it's possible to raise this assembly, maybe 1/2" to give it a bit more space from the heat ? What's your thoughts on that ? I threw in a few pics of where it will be sitting in the future

...

 

[MW 413]

Really don't see a need to raise it. With heat shield your MC stays at normal underhood temps. I've been running mine 4 years with no problem. I only swapped to the new MC because I wanted better pedal feel. I'm streeting a pretty strong DLI 440 long block with 3705 Eddys at 576 flywheel HP with no heat problems.
That is a great color your going with.

 

[bearman]

this would make a great sticky note thanks for part number extra mw413. i also agree vandan great looking color again thank you for the heads up. i have a question maybe you guys can help is it alright to use stainless steel flex line instead of hard line from the mc to portion valve extra.

 

[MW 413]

I guess one could but I would use a steel line due to the under hood heat as opposed to a wheel end flex hose. Those steel braided flex hoses have a rubber or Neoprene lining in them.

 

[miller]

Just wondering if it's possible to raise this assembly, maybe 1/2" to give it a bit more space from the heat ? What's your thoughts on that ?

Even only a 1/2" up, guess it would mess with the brake pedal rod alignment, putting it at an angle.