Disc brake on tapered axle?

[icetech]

So.. i'm pretty sure the answer is no.. but i got my rear end apart today, which was anti-climatic.. no massive fights to get the hubs off or anything. basically i need to replace every single but of brake hardware/drums and the cost will come out close to a disc brake conversion.. But i don't think it's possible to do since the axle seal is in the backing plate? Just making sure unless i'm missing something.. thanks guys.

 

[khryslerkid]

It might be possible to do this.

There's a seal in the backing plate and one inside the housing. The backing plate holds the axle from coming out of the housing.

You would have to fabricate something to hold the axle in. The drum backing plate would interfere with the rotor. Maybe use the center from the original backing plate.

The original hub will need to be saved to mount the rotor onto. Drill out the swedged studs without ruining the hub. This flange does place the drum/rotor in the same location as the newer flanged axles.

The hardware and bracket for the disk brake caliper should be the same for the early housing.

Then the proper size, length and width, studs will be needed.

The sealed Green roller bearings are what is recommended for rear disks kits but I have heard of a few using the original taypered bearings without any problems.

This is just my thoughts on this and I have nothing to prove it would work.

 

[Lefty71]

Why not cut up the old backing plate, and use it to retain the seal?? I've got no experience here, but you can bet I'm filling the popcorn bucket right now lol.



***EDIT** I do have some info on longer studs that work better than the ones in the Caspers (drum brake conversion) how-to guide. I'll dig out the info and repost.

 

[Lefty71]

The sealed Green roller bearings are what is recommended for rear disks kits but I have heard of a few using the original taypered bearings without any problems.

The only problem that jumps to mind here is the possibility that the originals, being greased might not like the heat the disk generates, but maybe Ford spec high temp could solve that too?? Also, I'm sure everyone knows already, but just a reminder, the OEM bearings for tapered axles are NOT that same as '65 and laters, so if you go Green, keep in mind that those would be different as well, I do believe. IIRC, the bearing ID is different, smaller.

 

[icetech]

Why not cut up the old backing plate, and use it to retain the seal?? I've got no experience here, but you can bet I'm filling the popcorn bucket right now lol.



***EDIT** I do have some info on longer studs that work better than the ones in the Caspers (drum brake conversion) how-to guide. I'll dig out the info and repost.

Yeah, i was thinking that i could cut out the center of the backing plate to hold the seal and bearing race in place then put the caliper bracket over that.. but was hoping someone had done it before since if it goes tits up i would be out a buncha money and needing to find new backing plates

 

[icetech]

It might be possible to do this.

There's a seal in the backing plate and one inside the housing. The backing plate holds the axle from coming out of the housing.

You would have to fabricate something to hold the axle in. The drum backing plate would interfere with the rotor. Maybe use the center from the original backing plate.

The original hub will need to be saved to mount the rotor onto. Drill out the swedged studs without ruining the hub. This flange does place the drum/rotor in the same location as the newer flanged axles.

The hardware and bracket for the disk brake caliper should be the same for the early housing.

Then the proper size, length and width, studs will be needed.

The sealed Green roller bearings are what is recommended for rear disks kits but I have heard of a few using the original taypered bearings without any problems.

This is just my thoughts on this and I have nothing to prove it would work.

Thanks, gonna think on it I already got studs to replace the hub ones after i get the drum off of it... I don't mind drum brakes, but if the cost is about the same as disc.. Plus my backing plates are super rusty but usable. will figure it out

P.S. with the open 2.76 gear... this car will be a comfy ride.. but not quick in any way.

 

[icetech]

So.. just a quick question.. I didn't notice when i pulled my axles (was sick of rear end dope smell already and wanted to be away from it) but.. i thought tapered don't have inner seals, just that outer? I only ask as i am ordering parts and i ran into this post and the guy shows a inner and outer?

TECH...Part 2, Mopar axle seal replacment

Here's the second part of our continuing series on early Mopar rear axle seal replacement. In case you missed the first part(and for future ease of...

www.jalopyjournal.com

 

[Lefty71]

There are inner and outer both..... These bearings are greased.... they need inner to keep the oil off them and outer to keep the weather off them .

 

[icetech]

There are inner and outer both..... These bearings are greased.... they need inner to keep the oil off them and outer to keep the weather off them .

k... i shoulda looked at it last night, i don't remember inners in mine and the bearings were covered in gear oil. will look when i go home tonight.