Dodge A12 Bee finally getting attention!

Loader

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Since you guys are able to help so easily, here’s another “issue” I’ll have to correct.

The car was towed to the track by the front bumper. It caused damage to the metal strip above the bumper and below the grille.

I have no clue what this part is called and haven’t found any listing for it anywhere.
 

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Since you guys are able to help so easily, here’s another “issue” I’ll have to correct.

The car was towed to the track by the front bumper. It caused damage to the metal strip above the bumper and below the grille.

I have no clue what this part is called and haven’t found any listing for it anywhere.

3rd try to attach a pic…

C4B3B3EB-3A5B-4D37-9177-018BCA35B8FA.jpeg
 

hunt2elk

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I’ve had it listed in the Super Bee registry and the 6bbl/6pack registry for years.
Cool, then Darrin knows all about it. I would love to own a car like that.....
 

Ironbuilt

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First, thank you for your service to this great country. :usflag:

That's a neat story, and you're lucky to have such a rare car that is almost entirely original. I agree with @Jerry Hall
Get the car running and driving and as close to original as possible. Enjoy it for awhile, then take your time and decide if a full restoration is the route that you want to go. I'm sure that you already know, there's a LOT of time, money and work involved in a full restoration.
 

1 Wild R/T

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The piece between the bumper & grill is called a filler panel, none on Ebay right now, they don't reproduce it but they do pop up for sale pretty regularly, I have one for a 68 but 69 is different..

A12's didn't come with any option for a wing so that's not original.... Depending on how it was installed you might want to look for a trunk lid.... If it's just two small holes they can be welded shut but sometimes the metal gets severely stretched...
 

Loader

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The piece between the bumper & grill is called a filler panel, none on Ebay right now, they don't reproduce it but they do pop up for sale pretty regularly, I have one for a 68 but 69 is different..

A12's didn't come with any option for a wing so that's not original.... Depending on how it was installed you might want to look for a trunk lid.... If it's just two small holes they can be welded shut but sometimes the metal gets severely stretched...

I know it wasn’t original. From the mounting holes, it looks like it was a Mopar “Go Wing”.

If the pic uploads, you can see the holes and why I wish the trunk lid could be saved. I assume those are factory assembly line markings in yellow.

4B948A8E-0755-4D85-AC94-82FFE88F5EAC.jpeg
 

1 Wild R/T

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Looks like the damage isn't to bad, hopefully it can be saved... But to weld the holes up the paint will get cooked... Might have to just find some blanking plugs, paint them to match & live with it...
 

Loader

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Looks like the damage isn't to bad, hopefully it can be saved... But to weld the holes up the paint will get cooked... Might have to just find some blanking plugs, paint them to match & live with it...
Or put a go-wing back on it!
 

Big D A12

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Welcome aboard. Great looking car. I recommend the put it together and drive it option.

I assume those are factory assembly line markings in yellow.

View attachment 1137902

Yes, this is a factory marking indicating the tire size for the car. There are several different ones for A12 cars.

D
 

Loader

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Welcome aboard. Great looking car. I recommend the put it together and drive it option.



Yes, this is a factory marking indicating the tire size for the car. There are several different ones for A12 cars.

D

Thank you. I would prefer to go that route, but am a little nervous about a couple of things. For one, I see some rust starting to form around the bottom of the rear window, around the taillights, and one lower quarter. Plus, isn’t the wiring harness a bit old to trust?

I ordered the crossmember and trunk floor, so at least that’ll get done now and the body will be solid.

Does anyone put sub frame connectors in there cars?

I’ve heard that traction bars are a no-no, but this car has had them on there since it was raced in the ‘70’s and I think they replaced the plate the clamps the spring to the axle spring pad with them - so I can’t just take them off!

So many details because this car deserves to be done correctly.
 

F4R/T

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Nice car , welcome aboard! And most importantly thank you for your service !
 

1 Wild R/T

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I
We’ve had this very concern. If fully restored, how can I relax driving it anywhere?

I’ve even considered putting the engine/trans in storage and putting non-original parts in so I don’t have to worry about throwing a rod if I want to play.

But to keep it as a survivor, the front fenders need help and I’m not sure what to do with them. With all the years of people leaning over the fenders tuning at the track, the paint was worn off. Then sitting all these years, they’ve surface rusted pretty badly. If I fix/paint them, they’ll be much nicer than the rear of the car. I can’t leave them as they are. So many things to consider before really moving on this!


Something I suggested to a friend about a year ago which he tried & it worked really well... If the rust is just "surface rust, lay old towels over the fender tops & pour evaporust over the towels.... Just keep the towels wet for the better part of a day maybe dump more evaporust every half hour or so... On his car it left the metal absolutely rust free, depending how bad it is you might have to do it a few days.. But keep it wet, don't leave the towels on the fenders & go to bed... Pull the towels & throw them in a plastic bag, rinse the fenders really well & dry them.... Then try again the next day... Or whenever you have time to spend...
 

Loader

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Something I suggested to a friend about a year ago which he tried & it worked really well... If the rust is just "surface rust, lay old towels over the fender tops & pour evaporust over the towels.... Just keep the towels wet for the better part of a day maybe dump more evaporust every half hour or so... On his car it left the metal absolutely rust free, depending how bad it is you might have to do it a few days.. But keep it wet, don't leave the towels on the fenders & go to bed... Pull the towels & throw them in a plastic bag, rinse the fenders really well & dry them.... Then try again the next day... Or whenever you have time to spend...
I’ve never heard of that. I’ll have to give it a try!
 

Basket case

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Thank You for your Service Sir!
If it were my car......it has sat for 38 years. Time to get it road worthy and safe top drive and get some smiles per miles on it.Throw some Day Two wheels on it. Have some fun with it for a while before you decide if you want to restore it. This gets expensice, and it's nice not to have to worry about scratches in new expensive paint. The traction bars, dents in the front filler panel. etc are part of it's history....I'd leave'm be. Since you mentioned critter damage, you need to check out the wiring. As far as age, mine has the original wiring without any trouble. The insulation is all still soft and intact. New wiring is available if needed or you want to go that route, and engine harnesses are available for upgraded electronic ignition. The rust you mentioned can be stabilized and it's not sitting in an old barn anymore. Love to see more pictures!
 

Loader

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Thank You for your Service Sir!
If it were my car......it has sat for 38 years. Time to get it road worthy and safe top drive and get some smiles per miles on it.Throw some Day Two wheels on it. Have some fun with it for a while before you decide if you want to restore it. This gets expensice, and it's nice not to have to worry about scratches in new expensive paint. The traction bars, dents in the front filler panel. etc are part of it's history....I'd leave'm be. Since you mentioned critter damage, you need to check out the wiring. As far as age, mine has the original wiring without any trouble. The insulation is all still soft and intact. New wiring is available if needed or you want to go that route, and engine harnesses are available for upgraded electronic ignition. The rust you mentioned can be stabilized and it's not sitting in an old barn anymore. Love to see more pictures!

Wow - all good points and adding to my list of things to consider before making that final decision.

I think at a minimum I’ll do what needs to be done either way - like to go through the engine short block and get that freshened up while I source other things I know I’ll need.

The guys at Legendary Auto Interiors explained that from the door panels and rear seat patterns that it’s a bucket seat car. I found a bench seat for it then had to find buckets. Now I have those and can rebuild them.

I also found a buddy seat, but there isn’t a mount on the floor so it didn’t have one of those originally.

Going to strip out the rear so I can plasma cut the trunk floor out and replace the shock crossmember. That has to be done regardless. Parts are ordered!
 

440beep

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Here's the leaf spring shock plate to replace that traction bar setup.
https://www.manciniracing.com/marilesishpl.html

The spring bolts that will be needed also.
https://www.manciniracing.com/springubolts.html

And subframe connectors
https://www.manciniracing.com/frco.html


Does anyone put sub frame connectors in there cars?

I’ve heard that traction bars are a no-no, but this car has had them on there since it was raced in the ‘70’s and I think they replaced the plate the clamps the spring to the axle spring pad with them - so I can’t just take them off!
 

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