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Does this torque chain look ok???

I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
Or you could just get a set of these Mancini Racing MagMount Motor Mount Set
I'm running these with the heim joint above. Belt and suspenders.
 
I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
I have several cars that I have done the same thing with the driver side motor mounts. Still has a little movement as to not transfer noise and vibration throughout the cars like solid mounts do, but yet still holds the mounts together from tearing.
 
Thank you everyone! I think I might go with the Mancinni mount.
 
We just rplace the left side rubber bisket with a block of aluminum. Drilll an tap for studs. Paint it black.
Doug
 
We just rplace the left side rubber bisket with a block of aluminum. Drilll an tap for studs. Paint it black.
Doug
I was kind of curious but afraid to ask... I get why to use a chain, you have some slack so the rubber mount can do it's thing until the motor moves too much, the guys using solid bars or joints why not just put in a solid mount? figured it was something i wasn't seeing...
 
Nobody sells a conversion kit to the later spool type mount? I could have sworn that was available.
 
I was kind of curious but afraid to ask... I get why to use a chain, you have some slack so the rubber mount can do it's thing until the motor moves too much, the guys using solid bars or joints why not just put in a solid mount? figured it was something i wasn't seeing...
Absolutely. I use a solid mount(Moroso that I had powder coated black) on the driver side only, and no problems.
I have mayyybe 1/2"-3/4" between the air cleaner and the 6-barrel hood scoop so I can't have things moving around.
Solids on both sides with my engine induced a little too much vibration for me...a stock-style biscuit on the passenger side dampens things just fine while the solid keeps the engine from lifting.
Chain was our old-schooly quick fix for a broken DS mount.
 
On my '65 Coronet used a chain/turnbuckle for a while, the made my own solid mounts, 2x3 rectangular. Worked perfectly. A drag car.
 
I have a Schumacher one goes from the block in the same ear and to the bolts that mount the front sway barlinks on the top of the k member. on a A body. Some one took over thier designs and are making them again. Darn I cannot think of who
I have one of those shumacher torque rods on my 67 belvedere 383 big block, not a huge torque monster, overkill is good sometimes.
 
Years ago I went to the farm store and bought a aluminum turnbuckle. It looked good and worked well.

Screenshot_20230311_185815_Chrome.jpg
 
In my experience the engine will technically twist, not rise up one side.
Tunnel ram through the hood so it's more obvious.
I started with the chain, then put bolts through both mounts.
Going solid.
 
I do it differently. Take a stock motor mount and drill a 1/4" hole all the way thru it. Then take a larger drill bit and chamfer the hole on the side that will interfere. Go to the hardware store and buy a flat head 1/4" screw long enough to go all the way through, and lock it in place with a nut. I use a self locking nut so it doesn't loosen with time. Probably 50 cents in materials other than the stock mount. I broke 2 motor mounts on my Superbird, before a friend showed me this trick. Once installed nothing shows.
I did it like this ^ but I used 5/16 bolt, look how twisted mine is at launch , injector stacks make it obvious LOL, has not broken YET :)
Charger55.jpg
 
It'll work just fine... next step...
View attachment 1429766
I like the turn buckle design. Made mine similar except I bolted a plate to the front of the block instead of the back of the water pump and used a sway bar link rod bushings on the bottom to provide a little cushion. It's a 512 stroker motor with tons of torque and a manual transmission that launches hard through a Strange Dana 60. It goes to the drag strip several times a year and haven't broken anything yet.
 
If you must use chain, and it is slack like the OP's picture......twisting the chain will shorten it and therefore become a tighter fit.
 
I like the turn buckle design. Made mine similar except I bolted a plate to the front of the block instead of the back of the water pump and used a sway bar link rod bushings on the bottom to provide a little cushion. It's a 512 stroker motor with tons of torque and a manual transmission that launches hard through a Strange Dana 60. It goes to the drag strip several times a year and haven't broken anything yet.
Best place that I had on a hemi..
 
I have tightened up the chain for the time being. I will replace the mount with the bolted through mount in the near future. Thanks for all the help!
 
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