Door latch Star play adjustment?

[mrmolding]

Question for the experts. I’ve been having an intermittent problem where the door won’t close all the way. It closes then falls open a bit no matter how much I adjust the striker. I had a spare latch and comparing striker in old vs spare part, the striker will not engage all the way and rolls back a bit. So it all makes sense. But is the little Allen hear screw how I adjust this play? Thoughts are welcome and thanks!

 

[440 4 speed]

Question for the experts. I’ve been having an intermittent problem where the door won’t close all the way. It closes then falls open a bit no matter how much I adjust the striker. I had a spare latch and comparing striker in old vs spare part, the striker will not engage all the way and rolls back a bit. So it all makes sense. But is the little Allen hear screw how I adjust this play? Thoughts are welcome and thanks!
Looks like the pin in the wheel is quite worn. You will get problems with slop.
Had to change my driver’s side. Not perfect, passenger side works great.
View attachment 1990818

View attachment 1990819

View attachment 1990820

 

[gkent]

As the striker slides in that nylon piece in the top of the latch has to slide back. Its the only way a properly adjusted assembly will work. The latch is FIXED in the door and there is ZERO adjustment. The striker has all the adjustment - up, down - but it has to be close to level - best determined by the flat on the bottom. And if there were shims behind it originally then they have to go back in. Its a pain in the *** and trial and error. When you get frustrated, walk away.

 

[mrmolding]

As the striker slides in that nylon piece in the top of the latch has to slide back. Its the only way a properly adjusted assembly will work. The latch is FIXED in the door and there is ZERO adjustment. The striker has all the adjustment - up, down - but it has to be close to level - best determined by the flat on the bottom. And if there were shims behind it originally then they have to go back in. Its a pain in the *** and trial and error. When you get frustrated, walk away.

Ok thanks! No matter how forward I bring the latch it won’t bite like the spare one. Does this mean it’s worn out?

 

[gkent]

Latch is the part on the door. Striker is the part on the body. The latch is fixed. The striker can be adjusted.

Use a screwdriver and make sure you can push that plastic piece in. See arrow

Also, if the door can be pryed open its because the latch isn't pushing the star wheel far enough to catch. So the striker has to move in.

 

[mrmolding]

Latch is the part on the door. Striker is the part on the body. The latch is fixed. The striker can be adjusted.

Use a screwdriver and make sure you can push that plastic piece in. See arrow

Also, if the door can be pryed open its because the latch isn't pushing the star wheel far enough to catch. So the striker has to move in.

View attachment 1990870

Cool! I’ll take another look at those things. Thanks!

 

[pnora]

If the striker is to far in the latch will only bite on the first click. As said they take some playing around with to get right. My Charger the left door was a breeze but the right door was a c@@K sucker.

 

[mrmolding]

If the striker is to far in the latch will only bite on the first click. As said they take some playing around with to get right. My Charger the left door was a breeze but the right door was a c@@K sucker.

Thanks! Right side is a dream. Left not so much! I’ll check back soon.

 

[gkent]

I had the same issue … right side was fine, took me almost a week to get the left to fit right.

 

[R413]

That nylon in block slides on a shaft, spray some lubricant up inside on the shaft and slide the block back and forth to work it in.

Lube the star wheel, on the inside and outside.

Don't use WD 40 or white lithium grease, get some good lubericant

 

[mrmolding]

That nylon in block slides on a shaft, spray some lubricant up inside on the shaft and slide the block back and forth to work it in.

Lube the star wheel, on the inside and outside.

Don't use WD 40 or white lithium grease, get some good lubericant

I literally just logged on to share results, and saw your response which is what I wound up trying with my spare latch. I did not try the door yet since I have the car covered since door doesn't close (mice concerns!). But, on the spare latch, I had to put PBlaster on it to free the nylon block. It took a while and moves freely now. However, as a test I tried to put the striker in like in my picture above, and with my hands I can not get the striker past the first tooth without using a screwdriver to push the nylon to get it to slide back and let the striker in the latch completely. Not sure if force of door is enough, but I will try the latch in the door tomorrow. Going to break out the service manual as well. Thanks again everyone!

 

[gkent]

with my hands I can not get the striker past the first tooth without using a screwdriver to push the nylon to get it to slide back and let the striker in the latch completely.

This is absolutely NORMAL. The weight of the door will make it work.

 

[R413]

When in your hand you can't make it work right. When the striker is solid mounted to the car it will work.

Back to lubrication. Care to guess when the last time anything on the car was lubricated? Decades? Longer? How many times do you hear old car doors and hinges squeaking? Too much

I like to spray the latch from inside the door with the panel off. Operate all the functions and look at all the moving parts on the latch.

Tri-flow is a good product.

 

[gkent]

For the past 25 years my "go to" lube has be "wire rope and chain lube" for the simple reason it sprays out water-thin and flows into the finest gaps then the solvent evapates leaving a grease coating. And once "dry" the excess can be wiped off.

 

[mrmolding]

What about Boeshield T-9? I've got a few cans of that.

 

[mrmolding]

Thanks again everyone! Turns out my striker bolts heads were a little too worn to tighten to keep it put. I ordered a new set, moved the striker out about 1/4” bolted it down and closed perfectly. My existing latch is really loose compared to my spare and the nylon bumper moves without effort. Someday I’ll swap in the spare…

 

[gkent]

It's always a simple thing causing the most grief !!