Hello all: Well, weekend one is complete for my Dr Diff front disc conversion. I'm a little over my head on this project, and may call in reinforcements soon. Not ready to give up, but the job is going very slowly. I can turn a wrench, but never performed any steering, or suspension work. After about 12 hours, or so of working on the car (including two trips to O'Rielly auto parts), I have completed the following: 1) Both sides Drum brakes are off. 2) Both sides spindles are off. 3) Passenger side spindle is on with caliper mount. Here are the items slowing the progress: 1) The shields seem to be miss drilled. I've seen the 'odyssey' thread on FBBO where a Dremel is required to open up the ball joint access holes, but on these shields it looks as if they are correct. It's the three shield mounting holes that are off. It seems two of the three holes do not line up by about 3 to 5 degrees. I have a help email into Dr Diff to see what he recommends. 2) The left front brake hard line was really rounded off (not by me) at the rubber hose clip. I have that line off the car now. It broke loose easily from the proportioning block. What I can't break loose is the four other lines. I have soaked them with TriFlow, even ran the engine today 15 minutes to add some heat (it hasn't run in two weeks and it needed that anyway), but they won't budge and I don't want to round them off. I'm really not in a position to replace all brake lines right now. 3) I tried all of the 'just wack it here hard' to get the tie rod end loose suggestions. In fact, I spent over an hour doing this Friday night. Bought a super cheap 'tie rod separator' tool at O'Rielly and these came off. 4) I also tried the 'just wack it here hard when it's turned' suggestion for the knuckle at the upper joint. No dice after an hour. Bought a 'pit arm tool' from O'Rielly and these came loose easily. I did not damage any boots, so I guess I am doing something right, at least so far. While there, I replaced many zerk fittings and did a really good lube job. I also had a delay trying to get the proper torque and access to the cotter pin hole on the upper joint. It seems the knuckle on the disc version is a little more than 1/8 inch taller than what I removed. The washer between the castle nut on the upper joint knuckle is also a little over 1/8 inch think. I wanted to use the washer and not did the castle nut into the knuckle. Final decision was to torque to 85-90 ft lbs rather than the spec of 100-120 ft lbs and use 'half' of a cotter pin. Long post, but somebody out there might benefit from a shade tree experience I had this weekend. Any advice, moral support, or sympathy is appreciated!