drive shaft yoke

[pwDave]

Ok, I just bought a ford truck drive shaft for my 64 bel. nice shape aluminum, too long but I can have it cut to length, has the large u-joints in it. I figure the shaft has no idea what kind of a car its in, so it should be happy in my plymouth. anyone else try this? I know a fellow that has a stock ford alum. in his dakota race truck, hasn't given him any problems and he has it on a bottle, pulls the front 18" and carries them 40 ft. I gave 15.00 for the shaft, its straight with no dents. I'll pull the one in the car and weigh them both, see where I'm at on the weight. six lbs or more and I'll go with the alum. anyone else try this?? or have any reason it won't work. Dave.

 

[miller]

As long as wall thickness, and overall diameter is up to snuff, should be fine.

 

[moobster]

Ok, I just bought a ford truck drive shaft for my 64 bel. nice shape aluminum, too long but I can have it cut to length, has the large u-joints in it. I figure the shaft has no idea what kind of a car its in, so it should be happy in my plymouth. anyone else try this? I know a fellow that has a stock ford alum. in his dakota race truck, hasn't given him any problems and he has it on a bottle, pulls the front 18" and carries them 40 ft. I gave 15.00 for the shaft, its straight with no dents. I'll pull the one in the car and weigh them both, see where I'm at on the weight. six lbs or more and I'll go with the alum. anyone else try this?? or have any reason it won't work. Dave.

Do you have enough room to use a large u-joint? Makes things pretty tight in the tunnel.

 

[andyf]

It isn't going to work unless you have the matching yokes both front and back. There aren't a lot of choices and it can get expensive swapping yokes so my guess is that it won't work unless you got lucky and picked a driveshaft that has the right u-joints on it.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The term large u-joint is pretty vague. Could be 1330 (I doubt) 7290, 1350 or ??.

 

[andyf]

Could be most anything, I'm not sure what Ford trucks are using these days. 1350 yokes are common for light trucks but Mopar passenger cars didn't use that size. The stock yokes can be replaced but it will cost some money. A '64 should have a ball and trunnion front joint unless it has been converted which is another can of worms........

 

[Dipstick]

Yeah, the B&T front joint on the '64 is gonna be a buzzkill, the B&T can be replaced but not worth the effort just to use an aluminum shaft.

 

[63SPF]

That was the first thing that went. When I rebuilt my 63 Ply. Spt. Fury vert. I changed my tail shaft on my tranz. And moved my rear spring perches in. Much better !

 

[pwDave]

B&T drive shaft has been gone 40 yrs, turns out that the alumimin shaft is 2 lbs heavier than the steel shaft that is in it now, I weighed the ford shaft at 18 lbs and then took the steel shaft out and it weighed 16 lbs, WTH?? besides it was a metric cup size and my old 64 is sae. it was worth a shot. shouldn't have got so excited about finding a cheap way out!!! Dave.

 

[pwDave]

got my new steel drive shaft from the drive line shop, 155.00, good price balanced and all, one new joint, one less thing to worry about at the track!! fellow started helping his dad when he was 10 yrsold, flat out knows what he is doing!! Dave.

 

[miller]

Good deal! Now, don't go around, trying to 'twist' that thing!

 

[pwDave]

Tried to twist it out yesterday, no luck at all, stress test was wheels up with no adverse effect. it passed the test. Dave.

 

[1948 santa]

Ok, I just bought a ford truck drive shaft for my 64 bel. nice shape aluminum, too long but I can have it cut to length, has the large u-joints in it. I figure the shaft has no idea what kind of a car its in, so it should be happy in my plymouth. anyone else try this? I know a fellow that has a stock ford alum. in his dakota race truck, hasn't given him any problems and he has it on a bottle, pulls the front 18" and carries them 40 ft. I gave 15.00 for the shaft, its straight with no dents. I'll pull the one in the car and weigh them both, see where I'm at on the weight. six lbs or more and I'll go with the alum. anyone else try this?? or have any reason it won't work. Dave.

How do you plan on mounting the steel front trunnion to an aluminum shaft?

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm a little confused on what you ended up with

 

[miller]

got my new steel drive shaft from the drive line shop

Sounds like he stuck with steel shaft ...
(Probably likes it, too!)

 

[pwDave]

How do you plan on mounting the steel front trunnion to an aluminum shaft?

KK, refer to post no. 9 (B&T been gone 40yrs). and yes I ended up with the steel shaft, the alum. ford was the right width on the joint but had the next smaller size cup, there wasn't that much difference in weight, and I didn't feel like having the cost of having to buy two joints to make one. so yes I do feel better about having steel inbetween the tranny and the dana. Dave.

 

[khryslerkid]

KK, refer to post no. 9 (B&T been gone 40yrs). and yes I ended up with the steel shaft, the alum. ford was the right width on the joint but had the next smaller size cup, there wasn't that much difference in weight, and I didn't feel like having the cost of having to buy two joints to make one. so yes I do feel better about having steel inbetween the tranny and the dana. Dave.

So you have an upgraded yoke at the trans.

 

[pwDave]

So you have an upgraded yoke at the trans.

Yes, Dave.