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I need to have a custom drive shaft made and want to do it right the first time. What size Trans yoke and what size rear end yoke should I use in the making of my shaft? Thanks Ron
X2 If you go with the 1350, nearly unbreakable. I'd go with the chrome moly tube too. You never want to break the drive shaft/U joint. I did once. NO GOOD!!
I've used 7260, 7290, and 1350 all with no issue. If Its a new custom shaft then 1350 would be my choice in aluminum. Carbon fiber even better. But then there's that old pesky thing, money. A 1350 shaft will require 1350 yokes. What does your axle have? Stock yokes will easily handle 10 second power. I was lucky. Before price increases I bought a 1350 aluminum shaft with the front yoke from Dyno-Tech for $440
Doug
Thanks Guys. I forgot to give enough info. The dart has a 440 stroked to 540, in front of a J&W Auto Trans driving a narrowed 8.75 with 4:30 gears and Dutchman axles.
For pix of my new aluminum driveshaft. It has a 1350 on the front to mate w the Gear Vendor yoke and a combo 1350 / 7290 rear so that it can be 1350 on the driveshaft side and 7290 on the diff side to mate with the stock differential yoke.
The 7290 shaft end only comes in steel so cannot be mated to an aluminum shaft - so i'm told. Hence the combo joint at the back.
Hi Ron, I'm always excited when I buy a new component but it always runs into extra cash when I get done with the (what ifs) and a 540 Dart isn't a regular hot rod buy any means. Are you certain you are going to stay with the 8-3/4?Do you drag race w/slicks? Anymore I use top quality slipjoint/yokes like Mark Williams or Strange and its a good time to go to the 1350 joints with a bigger Diameter tube. I wish I would have gone to a aluminum shaft now, rotating weight makes a big difference and you can save several pounds here. If you go to a dana 60 you will have to shorten your shaft. best of luck! Like DVW said above, I think if I have a new Aluminum shaft built I will try Dynotech next but they ain't cheap, I THINK ABOUT $900. John