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Drivetrain and transmission

kinghs95

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I have a 1972 Plymouth satellite that originally had a 318 and 8 1/4. Now I’m planning on putting a 440/727 and a 8 3/4 with 489 third-member with clutch sure-grip, 3.55 gears, 1350 yoke and 1350 driveshaft but I don’t know what length of a driveshaft I need? Also i have too transmissions but both look different. So I need to know how to tell the difference to figure out what is what transmission. Also how to tell if it’s automatic or manual and if it’s good to rebuild or not. I have a 904 that has a brand new torque converter and pretty sure 2500 stall and was wondering if I could use that on 727 big block. Lastly is it easy to rebuild a transmission, should I just have someone rebuild it, or buy a new one?
 
A 904 is a small block transmission and will not fit a 440. You would need an adapter to make use of the small block trans on the big block. And at 700.00 for the adapter I would just find a big block 727. Here is the adapter you would need. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...ge-small-block-518-transmission-6-bolt-crank/
A 904 is a small block transmission and will not fit a 440. You would need an adapter to make use of the small block trans on the big block. And at 700.00 for the adapter I would just find a big block 727. Here is the adapter you would need. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...ge-small-block-518-transmission-6-bolt-crank/
No I sadly found that out the hard way lol. But I was wondering if I could use a torque converter from a 904 2500 stall on a bb 727? Bc the 904 was rebuild and had a new torque converter.
 
I'll leave that question for the other guys... Not real sure myself.
 
No, you cannot use a 904 converter in a 727 transmission. 440'
 
The 727 & 904 have very different input shafts, 904 converter will not work with 727.
 
Sell the 904. Rebuild a 727 for the power you anticipate making. Unless you are over 600 hp. the 7290 u-joints will be more than adequate and save you $. You could then search for a stock BB drive shaft.
Mike
 
The cross piece in 1350 and 7290 are the same, cup sizes are different. You can switch cups, don't know if needle bearings are different.
 
Look above the trans pan for a stamped #, like this...it will tell you year and what it was installed into.
20170223_181717.jpg


I have rebuilt two 727 transmissions and find them very straight forward to rebuild. Measure the input shaft endplay before you take it apart. Take the parts off and stack them in order of removal and install in reverse order.

On the rear end, I would recommend a Trutrac locker instead of the clutch type sure grip. Less maintenance and no friction modifier needed.
 
Look above the trans pan for a stamped #, like this...it will tell you year and what it was installed into.
View attachment 916227

I have rebuilt two 727 transmissions and find them very straight forward to rebuild. Measure the input shaft endplay before you take it apart. Take the parts off and stack them in order of removal and install in reverse order.

On the rear end, I would recommend a Trutrac locker instead of the clutch type sure grip. Less maintenance and no friction modifier needed.
I was gonna buy a trutrac locker but Dr Diff recommended the one I got saying that he didn’t stock trutrac due to lots of them being defective. That Helps a lot tho.
 
I've said it before on here, I'd spend the $ on a new big, strong drive shaft. A 50 year old rotating piece may or may not be up to the task. Failure is NO FUN. 7290 U joints are fine, but 1350 are added insurance.
 
We have a 72 satellite with 8 3/4 and bb 727. Someone might know the drive shaft length...but I dont. But could measure it if needed.
 
FYI. There is a member selling a pair of 727s, good cores to rebuild for $200 for the both of them... you probably don't need two of them, but it's a good price and you could always sell or stash the other one for later. Check the for sale section..
-And you may have pretty good luck selling your 904 & converter over on FABO if you go that route. Lots of folks running small-block combos over there.
 
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As far as the driveshaft, in my opinion I would get the rear swapped and new transmission and engine in first. Let that be one of the last things you do.... that way you can get a truly accurate measurement. Then it's easy you can have one done up at a local shop for a few hundred or buy one online.
 
Look above the trans pan for a stamped #, like this...it will tell you year and what it was installed into.
View attachment 916227

I have rebuilt two 727 transmissions and find them very straight forward to rebuild. Measure the input shaft endplay before you take it apart. Take the parts off and stack them in order of removal and install in reverse order.

On the rear end, I would recommend a Trutrac locker instead of the clutch type sure grip. Less maintenance and no friction modifier needed.
K I got two transmission and found the identification numbers. I’m pretty sure one is from 318 that was in car and the other is a 727 but not sure so here’s pics(bad ones due to dark) and the numbers.
 
K I got two transmission and found the identification numbers. I’m pretty sure one is from 318 that was in car and the other is a 727 but not sure so here’s pics(bad ones due to dark) and the numbers.
one is J2 01543 3820170

others is PK3681843 4455 5210

8EBF226F-3FAB-4BD5-A3E2-82B44FF848BB.jpeg 02D556DD-0F6F-49D2-A201-16372D6D7CAC.jpeg
 
I'm not sure on the 1st one, but the PK marked one was in these...
Screenshot_20200228-203954_Drive.jpg


Does the other one have a shorter tail housing?
 
904 is basically a small block (Or slant six) trans. A 727 can be a Big block or small block trans. The bolt pattern where the trans bolts to the back of the block is different for /6, small blocks, and big blocks.
If you KNOW that one is the small block trans from your 318, check your other trans to see if it has a different bolt pattern, and starter location.
There are also differences in the trans pan shape. A little research on line can tell you which is which.
 
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