Drum brake job beating the hell out of me.

[440 PHIXX]

I think my main problem is I should have tossed everything that Jim’s auto parts sent me. I have the adjuster screwed all the way in and the brake shoe diameter measures 9.999. The drums I purchased are at 10” I can get them on but they are rubbing. I’m guessing the adjusters he sent me with the shoes he sent need to be filed down. Anyone else run into this? I’ve done drum brakes before and don’t remember running into all these problems. None of the parts he sent me seem to go with each other.

 

[Gort]

Oh no...Check the application of that kit...That adjuster and cable aren't even close to right...There should be at least a little adjustment there...Also, where's the lever that works that adjuster? That cable should be attached to that lever with a bit of tension on it so locks on the teeth of the adjuster...That way when you try to roll the adjuster it'll only roll one direction...That's the biggest thing I see...

 

[Tony 69]

You mights want to go get the adjuster and cable from Napa to compare. The adjuster looks incorrect and the cable looks like it will be too long when you have the rest of the brakes assembled

 

[Gort]

It should look like this...You know...THe adjuster not the e-brake part...

 

[440 PHIXX]

I have the adjuster lever off. I had it on and everything looked good but the adjuster doesn’t screw in enough to get the drums over it. I got the drums from Rock Auto and they are right at 10”. Jim’s auto parts sent me the wrong tention spring for the adjuster. I just got the right long ones in now. Really everything is for ‘69 or later. I’m putting this on a ‘68. But I can’t imagine the adjuster, star wheel not being able to screw in enough to get the drum on.

 

[91r/t]

Last 2 I've done have had to slide drums on tight and let them wear in. I had the star adjuster screwed in until it was bottomed out and still had issues. I think the parts tolerancing now days is **** and doesn't matter to them like the old days. Lucky we can even buy shoes anymore.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I got the drum to go on a little better! Still dragging very slightly. Here a complete assembled pic. And a close up of the forks on the Star wheel that I filed down a bit.

 

[Lefty71]

64 vintage... It looks to me like there's a little notch in the shoe for the adjuster that you don't have???

 

[440 PHIXX]

64 vintage... It looks to me like there's a little notch in the shoe for the adjuster that you don't have???

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Yeah. R413 put up a pic of a ‘78 B body. And that’s apparently what this Jim guy sent me. I’m not doing an OEM resto... just my daily transport. But he clearly just threw a bunch of mismatched parts in the box. Just my luck... the wheel cylinders will leak after I get it all together.

That is the setup I had. Like your picture.

 

[Lefty71]

Better view...

 

[440 PHIXX]

Thanks for the help everyone!

I got them back together. No leaks yet!

 

[mountain33]

where did you get your drums at?

 

[3sloppydogs]

Not so much anymore but years ago we always gave the drums a turn on the lathe just to make sure they were true and give a little clearance.

 

[440 PHIXX]

where did you get your drums at?

Rock Auto. They are the 10” Bendix. I had to use my old hub and ream out the lug holes in the hub to .645 for .65 right hand 1/2 -20 studs. They are really nice.

 

[moparedtn]

I'm pretty sure you're aware of my previous threads on this very subject...
I wound up not using the "improved" self-adjuster hardware on my own 11" setup - on the fronts.
The rears still do have the new hardware with self-adjusters, though - and they're fine for now.
(If anyone needs new self-adjuster hardware for 11" drums, I got some you can have ).

Bottom line on yours is new drums + new shoes = tight as it gets. Perfectly normal.
I do like the idea of running the new drums up on a lathe to check for true, though.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I'm pretty sure you're aware of my previous threads on this very subject...
I wound up not using the "improved" self-adjuster hardware on my own 11" setup - on the fronts.
The rears still do have the new hardware with self-adjusters, though - and they're fine for now.
(If anyone needs new self-adjuster hardware for 11" drums, I got some you can have ).

Bottom line on yours is new drums + new shoes = tight as it gets. Perfectly normal.
I do like the idea of running the new drums up on a lathe to check for true, though.

I didn’t check them with a bore gauge. But with a 12” caliper they were 10” all the way around. I think I read .005 is fine.

 

[moparedtn]

I didn’t check them with a bore gauge. But with a 12” caliper they were 10” all the way around. I think I read .005 is fine.

In a perfect world, perhaps - but car parts, especially brake parts, things are seldom perfect.

 

[440 PHIXX]

In a perfect world, perhaps - but car parts, especially brake parts, things are seldom perfect.

I’m really happy with Rock Auto. They have a lot of USA parts to choose from. The Raybestos springs I needed are made in USA.

 

[moparedtn]

I’m really happy with Rock Auto. They have a lot of USA parts to choose from. The Raybestos springs I needed are made in USA.

Yes, some Raybestos stuff is still USA - and some isn't, as I discovered fetching my "all USA" brake parts for my
own overhaul exercise.
In fact, the manual adjusters I just installed on the front of Fred are Chinesium (and more stout than the factory
pieces!) - but the heavy adjuster/bottom shoe springs are USA.

I also know most of Bendix drums are Chinese as well. Where were yours made?

 

[440 PHIXX]

Yes, some Raybestos stuff is still USA - and some isn't, as I discovered fetching my "all USA" brake parts for my
own overhaul exercise.
In fact, the manual adjusters I just installed on the front of Fred are Chinesium (and more stout than the factory
pieces!) - but the heavy adjuster/bottom shoe springs are USA.

I also know most of Bendix drums are Chinese as well. Where were yours made?

They are China. But very nice.