Drum Brakes??

Stumper

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While replacing my ball joints yesterday on my 62 Fury I pulled a brake drum to check the pads. Found something that doesn’t look Right. While the pads were still thick they and the drums are pretty badly grooved indicating that whoever last changed the brakes probably didn’t turn the drums. More oddly though, these brake drums have a groove that’s probably 1/2” wide and 1/4” deep and must have been machined in. Out of the 2.5” of possible inside surface area on the drum there is about 1 5/8”on the outside, 1/2” of the groove and then maybe 3/8” on the inside. Why on earth would that groove be cut in there as it clearly results in less contact area - is it factory? To top it off the pads are 2 1/2” wide so they go over the groove? Hope these pictures help.

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493 Mike

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I believe the wear surface may have been cast into place when the drum was poured in the foundry and has come loose. Danger, danger Will Robinson!
Mike
 

Stumper

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I believe the wear surface may have been cast into place when the drum was poured in the foundry and has come loose. Danger, danger Will Robinson!
Mike
Not following? Are you thinking the groove is an accidental casting flaw?
 

wagonman

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After looking closer I see what you are saying. Kind of like the journal fillet on a cast crank. I just had some drums cut for a 63 Belvedere 10 in X 2 1/2 and dont remember seeing that. I sure dont like it. I have to do a rebuild on the front end when I tear it down will check it out. Might be a while though.
 

Geoff 2

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Probably an earlier set of brake shoes wore down to the rivets, which gouged the drum.

Here, we only use bonded [ glued ] shoes, have done for decades...& this doesn't happen.
 

Stumper

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i Guess regardless of the origin of the groove, I’m going to look for new drums. I can’t see anything good coming from this condition. At the very least it results in less contact area and uneven pad wear. I can’t think of any reason this would be designed into a drum. Anyone have suggestions on where to get some replacements and matched pads?
 

493 Mike

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i Guess regardless of the origin of the groove, I’m going to look for new drums. I can’t see anything good coming from this condition. At the very least it results in less contact area and uneven pad wear. I can’t think of any reason this would be designed into a drum. Anyone have suggestions on where to get some replacements and matched pads?
Don't shop for "pads" look for "shoes".
Mike
 

69 Sleeper Bee

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I am with @Geoff 2 in thinking someone let the shoes get worn down to the rivets as I have seen damage to the drums like yours myself working at our local service station.
You definitely need new drums and shoes.
Should be able to get replacements from your local auto parts store.
 

33 IMP

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i Guess regardless of the origin of the groove, I’m going to look for new drums. I can’t see anything good coming from this condition. At the very least it results in less contact area and uneven pad wear. I can’t think of any reason this would be designed into a drum. Anyone have suggestions on where to get some replacements and matched pads?
I have never dealt with them (I won't give any money to any company where I can't talk to a human), but if Rockauto hasn't got any......
I would try Napa first. Got brake springs kits for my 62 there in a couple hours.
 

33 IMP

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I have never dealt with them (I won't give any money to any company where I can't talk to a human), but if Rockauto hasn't got any......
I would try Napa first. Got brake springs kits for my 62 there in a couple hours.
Napa shows three valid part#s for 62 drums, avaliable next day.
Likely chinese.... but what ya gonna do? (I'd get em turned, if you can find somebody that can still do that....
 

Stumper

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Napa shows three valid part#s for 62 drums, avaliable next day.
Likely chinese.... but what ya gonna do? (I'd get em turned, if you can find somebody that can still do that....
I check some hubs earlier but all the pictures I saw were of drums without the integral bearing hub. At least I think the hub is part of the drum?

There isn’t enough metal on these hubs to turn the groove out - it’s really deep
 

69 Sleeper Bee

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I check some hubs earlier but all the pictures I saw were of drums without the integral bearing hub. At least I think the hub is part of the drum?

There isn’t enough metal on these hubs to turn the groove out - it’s really deep
The hub is separate from the drum.
You have to have a press to remove the studs to separate the 2 parts. Don’t try to hammer out the studs as you will likely ruin the hub.
I had my local brake shop do it for me on my 63 Belvedere.
 
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moparedtn

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Waiting for our resident vendorvulture to swoop in, pawning his wares.....
 

33 IMP

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Your front drums are likely to still be swedged to the hub. There are videos, and threads on here telling how to best remove the swedge, so all you have to do is get new drums. The technique involves a drill press and hole saw. Mine were de-swedged decades ago, and long right hand studs installed.
 

Stumper

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Figures, nothing is ever easy - made worse by living in the middle of no where. Unfortunately there’s no local brake, shop, transmission shop, engine builders or much of anything else around here. Guess I’ll need to figure out how to separate What I have and press the hub into a new drum…

whats the drill press and hole saw hack involve?
 

MoparLeo

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Judging by your photos, Swedging option was gone long ago. I can see that you studs look to have been arc welded to the drums long ago. The only real reason to look for drum, hubs, studs etc... is if you are set on keeping it "OE".
If not, you will be way ahead safety and parts availability wise to go with a dual brake line, master cylinder, disc brake upgrade.
 

33 IMP

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I hadn't noticed the spot weld on the stud.
That said, I agree with everything Moparleo said. That would be, BY FAR, the best solution.
(I lost the favorite car I have ever owned, to a brake failure in a car with a single pot master.)
 

Stumper

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I realized those studs were welded yesterday after reading the discussions about removing the swagged studs to separate the drum/hub.. I actually have a dual reservoir master already. Would need a proportioning valve since it appears to just have a T joint now. Im kind of torn on changing to disks. I’d like to keep it stock - but - would like the better braking. I guess if I can’t find hubs I may not have a choice. I was looking this morning and saw that Mopar Mall out in Ca has reconditioned drums. I’ll send them a note to see if they might have a set of drums and hubs. Check a few other vendors…
 

Stumper

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What has everyone done for a disk conversion on the 62s? Did you use a kit and if so who’s? Swapped in parts from a different Mopar - what works?
 

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