dual external milodon oil system check valves

[stage3]

what r u guys using to keep the oil from draining back into the pan on a dual external milidon oil system? mines #12 an fittings..after sitting less than a week on start up it took like 10 seconds to see oil pressure on the guage..no leaks anywhere....want to install now while its on the jack stands before the show season starts soon.....thanks..

 

[bearman]

you can pick up one way check valves or use a primer pump. check valve is the easy way to do it

 

[not so famous bob]

you can pick up one way check valves or use a primer pump. check valve is the easy way to do it

-pics or part number ??

 

[stage3]

-pics or part number ??

that's what I'm looking for also..I seen them on a for sale ad here a while back but could not find the ad..I think it was from hemiitis?

 

[not so famous bob]

that's what I'm looking for also..I seen them on a for sale ad here a while back but could not find the ad..I think it was from hemiitis?

I have read of guys making sure their lines go up out of the pump to prevent drain back. My single line doesn`t and it doesn`t seem to be a problem. Oil film is retained long enough for a start up , in my opinion. Mine takes about 2-3 seconds to see the gauge coming up.
Just wanting to see a pic of one , if ever needed.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I don't believe there is a check valve.I see many guys loop the line above the pump to keep it primed.If it is a major concern than an accumulator will pre oil for you.

 

[Hemirunner]

Just google 12AN check valve. There’s a bunch. I’ve never used one for that style oil system nor do I see the need but we usually run the line up over and down to put a trap in to retain oil at the pump.

 

[stage3]

hemi-itus...what were those 1 way valves u had on your milodon pan that u were selling?u told me what they were but that info was lost ...

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

They are called pre filters.They had a screen in the canister to catch debris before getting to the oil pump.They also unscrewed for inspection.

 

[stage3]

Earl's Performance Check Valves 253012ERL..

pricy little bastards...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-253012erl

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I have never in my 45 years as a MOPAR guy ever see that used in the pick up lines from the pan. Then you might need 2 if you go down that road.

 

[gtxracer]

On my GTX, I have both lines angled up with one going in the rear of the pump and the other over the top with a 180 degree fitting. I never had a check valve or felt the need for one, my oil pressure gage shows pressure while cranking.
Bob

 

[not so famous bob]

Earl's Performance Check Valves 253012ERL..

pricy little bastards...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-253012erl

dam I guess !

 

[stage3]

On my GTX, I have both lines angled up with one going in the rear of the pump and the other over the top with a 180 degree fitting. I never had a check valve or felt the need for one, my oil pressure gage shows pressure while cranking.
Bob

on mine,the rear goes straight out and down,the front loops straight down and back,could be the problem with pump staying primed..i would imagine that they would both have to be angled up to do it.front would be easy,the rear will probably require a new line..thanks.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The loop helps keep prime,but mine comes right up.

 

[Endangered Species]

You will be way further a head buying an accumulator, that allows you to pre-lube it also.

We never start ours up cold with out priming the system first. It will put 20 - 40 PSI or oil through the system before start up.
I don't know if I like the one way valve only because it's going to be a restriction point.

 

[stage3]

You will be way further a head buying an accumulator, that allows you to pre-lube it also.

We never start ours up cold with out priming the system first. It will put 20 - 40 PSI or oil through the system before start up.

makes sense,start up after weeks of sitting in the garage is my problem..r u using the electric pump style unit or the manual valve pumped up by compressed air..canton looks like a good unit..thanks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-24-026/overview/

 

[Endangered Species]

Canton and Moroso both make good ones.

We are running Master Lube. Back when we bought it they had a short fat canister which doesn't take up much room.
Ours is only 1.5 quarts so a 2 quart system would be that much better.

 

[stage3]

so..the valve at the bottom releases the oil for pre-lube,,but after sitting for weeks/months/whatever,1 must pressurize the tank with compressed air for it to work?unless by some miracle it maintains the 60 psi or so of oil pressure upon shut down?which is fine,just trying to under stand the method..looks like I could mount a 16" x 4 1/2" in front of radiator on the trans cooler mounts horizontally.from there its easy plumbing..

 

[Endangered Species]

When you put oil in the car... you fill the accumulator up also. Say you have a Canton so it takes 2 quarts.
You put your two quarts in and then put the cap on and then hit it with compressed air. We usually are around 80 PSI.
Then you leave it.

You'll have a 3 way toggle switch in the car. Off/armed/pre-lube.
Before you start the car you're going to pre-lube it.
You will be able to watch your oil pressure gauge clime... what a beautiful site.

Then you're going to flip the switch to armed, then start the car. Once the car is started it will pump oil back into the accumulator and hold it until it needs it..... Hopefully you never need it. LOL
The only time I have it armed is when I start the car (cold) so it re-fills the reservoir, and when I pull out of staging to do my burn out.

I hope that helps.