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Eastwood 2k ceramic chassis black

t.flatt

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So, I'm about ready to finish my k-frame and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this product. Eastwood claims it is the best they have yet I've read reviews that it is garbage and to not use it. Any advice out there?
 
So, I'm about ready to finish my k-frame and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this product. Eastwood claims it is the best they have yet I've read reviews that it is garbage and to not use it. Any advice out there?
I used it to paint my K Frame. BUT.....lol....I failed to prep the surface adequately and it all peeled off under high pressure air. I sanded it off and painted the K frame in body color instead. However, it went on smooth and looked great. So, i guess it is a good product when used correctly. I am using Eastwoods Under Hood Black and like it a lot. It's like armor. All of Eastwoods products are well researched and well tested. You'll be fine. Just follow the directions for use and prep well. Get your gun right too, the best paint in the world will fail if your gun isn't clean and set up correctly.
 
I used it on my K frame and so far I like it.
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I used on all my undercarriage parts. Everything was well cleaned and i use epoxy primer first. Car has not been road ready yet for a durability test but came out well.
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I used it on my K-frame, Brake booster, Master cylinder backing plate and wiper motor. Advice: Use an Epoxy
primer, as stated on the label. It says to use Eastwood's Epoxy primer which I did have. Let it cure overnight
and then wet-sand any nibs or dirt smoothe and shoot the black on using a primer gun! A regular color gun
doesn't put out enough volume. You'll end up with dry spots unless you thin it alot! Remember that when using
Epoxy, if you let it sit more than three or four days, you'll have to scuff the whole surface or the color won't
have good adhesion. Going to use it to black-out the core support behind the grill. I will use Scotch-Brite to
rough-up that area before shooting it. Kind of pricey as stated, but looks good and is catalized!
 
Or go to your local John Deere dealer and get a gallon of Blitz black, hardener and thinner. Mixes 8:1:1. Fairly inexpensive, pint of hardener is more than the gallon of paint. The hardener makes it one notch glossier.
 
I used it to paint my K Frame. BUT.....lol....I failed to prep the surface adequately and it all peeled off under high pressure air. I sanded it off and painted the K frame in body color instead. However, it went on smooth and looked great. So, i guess it is a good product when used correctly. I am using Eastwoods Under Hood Black and like it a lot. It's like armor. All of Eastwoods products are well researched and well tested. You'll be fine. Just follow the directions for use and prep well. Get your gun right too, the best paint in the world will fail if your gun isn't clean and set up correctly.
Thanks, but what did you do wrong when you prepped for it?
 
I used it on my K-frame, Brake booster, Master cylinder backing plate and wiper motor. Advice: Use an Epoxy
primer, as stated on the label. It says to use Eastwood's Epoxy primer which I did have. Let it cure overnight
and then wet-sand any nibs or dirt smoothe and shoot the black on using a primer gun! A regular color gun
doesn't put out enough volume. You'll end up with dry spots unless you thin it alot! Remember that when using
Epoxy, if you let it sit more than three or four days, you'll have to scuff the whole surface or the color won't
have good adhesion. Going to use it to black-out the core support behind the grill. I will use Scotch-Brite to
rough-up that area before shooting it. Kind of pricey as stated, but looks good and is catalized!
Thanks, I do have some of Eastwood's epoxy primer, a regular gun and a detail gun. So, just be sure to use a large tip for the chassis black?
 
A lot has to do with prep. Just prep good. Don't get all wrapped up in these high tech products. Remember, back in the day almost everything was a lacquer and crappy enamel. PPG sells Americoat 370, it's an industrial epoxy that's just a little over $100 for a gallon of paint and quart of activator. It doesn't need a top coat, cheaper because it's not listed as "automotive". Excellent chassis paint.
 
it's all about the prep and primer (sandblast and epoxy for the win)
 
A little note, If you want to thin it, Use 10% Xylene and it will come out of a regular gun better!
 
Thanks, everyone for all the replies! I've yet to order anything but I hope to get this done in the next few weeks.
 
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