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Edelbrock Performer Heads B Block

Warrenavenue

Warrenavenue

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Hey Guys, first time posting here, but I’m hoping maybe someone can help me out a little. I have a 496 Stroker that I built about 3 years ago with the help of the guys at Hughes engines. It’s built from a 383 and topped with a set of Edelbrock Performers. The motor has been a great runner, very powerful, and hasn’t had any troubles, but this weekend I decided to pop the valve covers and adjust my valves. I popped the left cover and immediately noticed a vertical crack in the rocker shaft pedestal closest to the alternator. I had a friend watch it while I turned the motor over and the crack would spread apart and gush oil as the rockers on cylinder 2 rocked. I ended up pulling the rocker shaft son both sides and found cracks on 3 of the pedestals on the left bank and 2 of the pedestals on the right bank. The cracks are not in the pedestals that contain oil galleries (2nd and 4th pedestals). When I pulled the rocker shaft studs I also noticed helicoils inside the cracked pedestals. Is that normal? I’m trying to get ahold of Edelbrock to see about warranty or repair but their tech department is swamped right now. I’ve also reached out to Hughes and they’ve offered to repair these ones but shipping to them will kill me. Anyone have any insights here? I dumped a ton into this build and this is not a welcome surprise.
 
I have small block Edelbrock RPM Performer heads. The rocker shaft pedestals do not have helicoils installed. I purchased them new from Summit. 440'
 
440Coronet500 said:
I have small block Edelbrock RPM Performer heads. The rocker shaft pedestals do not have helicoils installed. I purchased them new from Summit. 440'
Click to expand...
Good to know, I’m hoping to get ahold of Edelbrock tomorrow and see what they’re willing to help with. I know Hughes went through these things with a port job and bigger valves, maybe they installed these as added protection against stripping the threads? All I know is that I expected these things to last at $1000ea after machine work and polishing up.
 
Warren, can you post any clear pictures?
 
Did you supply the heads, and did Hughes build the engine? New heads should not need helicoils. I don't see that as a reinforcement for anything.
 
I have heard that cracked pedestals was common on the early rpm heads. The threads were not tapped deep enough into the head.
I would pull the heads and get them welded up locally. Then I would drill as deep as I could, and bottom tap to the bottom of the hole. Then, use a grade eight stud instead of the bolts. You may have to use a taller valve cover with the studs.
If I remember right they were tapped a half inch deep, the fix is a full inch of thread or helicoil.
Edit: sorry,i reread your post. I didn't notice that you were using studs already.
 
Last edited:
33 IMP said:
I have heard that cracked pedestals was common on the early rpm heads. The threads were not tapped deep enough into the head.
I would pull the heads and get them welded up locally. Then I would drill as deep as I could, and bottom tap to the bottom of the hole. Then, use a grade eight stud instead of the bolts. You may have to use a taller valve cover with the studs.
If I remember right they were tapped a half inch deep, the fix is a full inch of thread or helicoil.
Edit: sorry,i reread your post. I didn't notice that you were using studs already.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’ve already got the ARP stud kit. My studs were at 1.5 turns out from bottomed out in their bosses which also made them just tall enough to give about .015 out of the top of the nut at final torque.
 
NOSTRT980 said:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...Q==&searchmode=partnumber&page=2&partid=32323

is this the problem you have
Click to expand...
That’s exactly the problem!! Thank you. I bookmarked that page and I’ll talk to the guys at Hughes tomorrow. I don’t know what the exact spring rate they used in these heads is since they assembled them for me but they’re duals and they’re for a high lift hydraulic roller cam. This really blows, I can’t believe this is a known problem and now I have to deal with it after the fact and pay to have it repaired, not to mention the cost of all the new gaskets and the time tearing it apart and putting it all back together! New coolant, new oil...goos-frabba...goos-frabba...
 
451Mopar said:
I had those problems on my Edelbrock Victor heads. I haven't heard complaints on the Performer heads, but it is likely most people with performer heads don't run cams with > 0.700" lift?
I ended up milling the stands off and installing billet aluminum max wedge style rocker stands.

https://angeluccimfg.com/products/mopar-max-wedge-rocker-stands?variant=21697476801
Click to expand...
I’m not anywhere close to that, I’m not even quite .400” before rockers. How did you attach this kit? Did you weld them in?
 
welcome to FBBO from NorCal Sierras

maybe you could start another thread
in the Classic MoPar tech forums section too
or maybe the general discussion or racers hangout
or even the resto-mod/pro-touring forum sections

it maybe helpful to others here

I've heard about this problem but haven't ran across it as of yet
(I think this was the Victor Heads too, more so)

I have Ported Edelbrock RPM's on my 383 based stroker too
no signs of any problems,
I don't run that high of spring pressures thou
I have a relatively mild Hyd. Roller, with 1.6 rocker
I had a set of the Edelbrock RPM's on another 383 based stroker too
from back in 2001-2002-ish IIRC with a 0.700"+ gross valve lift,
I sold that car in 2007, it's still running strong too,
it had 12k miles & counting when I sold it
& probably 100+ beat/track runs too...

this is good information for many
to know, look out for

and not just limited to the welcome wagon section
not as many viewers here, like the other related forums listed

maybe a Mod could copy & paste this
to a few of the other forum sections

good luck
 
Last edited:
My question is, did Hughes set the heads up for you? Are shims installed (by them or you) under the shafts to 'correct' rocker geometry? Were there small, very thin half-circle shaped pieces of steel under the shaft in any location? I ask because, the only time I've ever seen cracked pedestals was from attempting to correct the shaft location using standard shims..
 
Last edited:
the only time I've ever seen cracked pedestals was from attempting to correct the shaft location using standard shims..
Click to expand...

Same here.
The Ede BB Mopar heads come with heli-coils in the 1/3/5 rocker stands.
I’ve been messing with these heads since they were first introduced.
I can’t recall ever hearing of cracked rocker stands on them before.
The other thing I would add is, the specified torque for a 3/8” ARP stud is probably higher than you should be torquing them in that application.

I’d get them welded locally, then verify the spring loads(open and closed) before reassembling the heads.
If the springs have fatigued, and there is insufficient load, a lot of strange and unhappy things can happen.
 
PRHeads said:
Same here.
The Ede BB Mopar heads come with heli-coils in the 1/3/5 rocker stands.
I’ve been messing with these heads since they were first introduced.
I can’t recall ever hearing of cracked rocker stands on them before.
The other thing I would add is, the specified torque for a 3/8” ARP stud is probably higher than you should be torquing them in that application.

I’d get them welded locally, then verify the spring loads(open and closed) before reassembling the heads.
If the springs have fatigued, and there is insufficient load, a lot of strange and unhappy things can happen.
Click to expand...
Just for kicks I dug out the instruction sheets from my RPM heads (holy crap I still have the paperwork from 2007?!) and they specify 25 lb/ft for the shaft mounts, that's not much(I'm sure you knew that Dwayne, I just put it out there for general knowledge..)
 
I'm positive Dwayne is right about the rpm's . I was flashing back to the problems with the stands in the Victor heads.
 
Warrenavenue said:
I’m not anywhere close to that, I’m not even quite .400” before rockers. How did you attach this kit? Did you weld them in?
Click to expand...

No welding. First you need to determine the height of the stock stands from a known reference point, then after removing the heli-coils, the stock rocker stands were milled off just slightly above the valve cover surface height (just makes it easy to mill that way.) The rocker stand bolt holes in the heads were then fitted with 3/4" long Time-sert inserts (sort of like a heli-coil, but unsted of a coil they are solid.) https://www.timesert.com/
steel 3/4" length 3/8-16 inserts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H274CNO/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB
steel 1.0" length 3/8-16 inserts
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H27LYTY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

The down side is the kit to install them is $80
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JK23O6/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

Then the new rocker stand blocks are checked for the rocker shaft height. The blocks are taller (thicker on the bottom) and will also need to be milled to the correct rocker shaft height, but this also allows some adjustment if you need to correct the rocker shaft height for better geometry.
I think the bolts that came with the kit can be used, but I used ARP studs and 12-point nuts to hold the rocker arm/stand assembly down the the cylinder head.
 
Looks like I need to check mine too. 499 stroker with Ed RPM heads from Hughes. Only .600" lift on mine with about 350 lb springs, but sounds like I better be checking those pedestals out anyway. :(
 
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