edelbrock performer series carb question

[levicah]

My 318 has always ran rich with this carb. Can anybody simplify my choice of adjustment kits?
I get replacing the rods and such, but do I have to pull the existing kit out to identify where I am starting from? I'm thinking of assuming that it is the factory set up and then buying the next kit down towards lean...the graphs are confusing to me, the stages are confusing to me. I just know the sparkplugs show rich, as well as unburnt fuel. heck I dont know which stage is rich. My gas mileage sucks at 11 mpg. I believe it is a 1406-600 carb. Any layman input in choosing a kit would be appreciated. How is this easier than one you can adjust?

 

[moparedtn]

What model do you have?
The Edelbrock site has all the tech data on that carb, including what they originally install
in them from the factory for jets and rods.
They also have a ton of helpful instructions on how to tune them using the kit.

 

[steve340]

Assuming the carb is unmodified. Edelbrock document what it should be fitted with and the steps you need to take.
Edelbrock list a tuning kit specifically for the 1406. You can get the tuning instructions on the internet if the original book is lost.

 

[WP29440SE]

start with .098 primary and .095 secondary jets using the .075x.047 rods and yellow ( gold looking ) springs. you want your accelerator pump rod in the middle hole and set your mixture screws 3/4 of a turn out. try that. an old trick is to switch the front and rear jets leaving all else alone.

there are other factors that can cause a rich condition. float levels too high , dirty needle and seats allowing flooding. high fuel pressure , crappy timing or weak spark. if oil is getting in the combustion chamber that will wreak havok as well.

 

[Darter6]

Everything WP said. Also check your altitude where you live. Washington state can be sea level to way above. Makes a difference in jetting.

 

[levicah]

Thanks everybody. Every little bit helps. Like I said, I get the how on to change them out, it's the factory graphs that seem stupid to me...I just want to step it down a notch.

 

[eldubb440]

assuming everything is functioning properly, and in its simplest terms.....

if its rich while cruising, you need the fat part of the rod to be a little fatter

if it's rich on acceleration, you need the thin part of the rod to be a little fatter

 

[coloradodave]

This may help:
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/rebuilding-tuning-edelbrock-carburetor/

SEE BELOW...

 

[coloradodave]

If you study the chart you'll see that it's divided into 2 sections, cruise and power. #1 dot is the stock rods and jets. If you want to go leaner in cruise conditions, look straight down to the #8 dot. Ref. #8 will give you the combination of parts that go one step leaner for cruise conditions and not affect power (acceleration) numbers. If you want to go richer on cruise, look up to dot #24 for that combination.
Same goes for power, accept you would look to the right or left for a combination that will be richer (right) or leaner (left).
You look diagonally for a combination of leaner/richer affecting both cruise and power. For instance, if you want to lean out cruise and power you would look at dot #7 combination.
PM me if I can answer any questions.
Dave

 

[levicah]

Alrighty then...Eldubb knows what I'm talkin about! Despite my resistance to learning, I actually get coloradodave's breakdown ha ha Thanks you guys!! I know this is off topic, but while I have your attention...my heater box post got no hits. Where can I find a heater box assembly diagram? specifically the swivel /door orientation. The detroit muscle kit just says "take a picture before disassembling"...too late. The defrost door can go a number of ways.