Electric fuel pump advice

[dan juhasz]

If I want to install a low pressure electric pump on my coronet just to use to prime the carbs after it sits for a week then let the mechanical pump actually run and drive the car, what would be your suggestion. Keep in mind the electric pump will only be on for priming then switched off so the mechanical pump will need to be able to suck fuel through it off.

 

[WileERobby]

I use a gerotor pump only, much quieter than the typical pump.

 

[Darter6]

Holley makes one called Mighty Mite. I run the 1.5-4 psi (jegs # 510-12-426) on several cars in the last few years.
They are also sold under the Mr.Gasket,K&N and other names. They work very well and for the $50 price tag it will do just what you want. For fun I disconnected the Mechanical pump on a 79 360 Cordoba just to see if it would work as a stand alone. The test was done at several different speeds around town and highway,with full throttle bursts of the Thermo Quad. Worked like a charm. I run one now on my 63 for a primer/start up. The mechanical pulls thru the electric pump without restriction.
Works great as a booster pump for the mechanical too at the track.

 

[66Satellite47]

I would not add another bit of restriction on the suction side of a mechanical pump. Suction resistance is an issue for mechanical pumps. That's just me. I use electric pumps near the fuel tank for HP applications, no mechanical pump.

 

[wish4hemi]

If going through the trouble of plumbing and wiring an electric pump, it may make sense to do away with the mechanical pump altogether. Holley has some options for electric pump delivery at low psi for carburetors. In-tank is what I would go with for noise control and reliability.
https://moparconnectionmagazine.com/video-holley-introduces-an-in-tank-fuel-pump-for-carburetors/

 

[gkent]

If you run any kind of "vane" pump then ZERO fuel will pass through when you turn it off, so you need something like a Carter electric pump. Personally I wouldn't bother - the fuel in the carbs may have evaporated but the lines should still be full enough that priming time will be minimal.

 

[Ruby67]

I added this setup to my car a couple of years ago and works great.
Pump is by Airtex, marine pump # E8251.
Be sure and have a fuel filter before the pump. I got one that uses replaceable filter elements, is made by Spectre, universal fuel filter #2369.
I used 16 gauge wiring thru a 10 amp fuse from a switched (ignition on) source point.

 

[66Satellite47]

I added this setup to my car a couple of years ago and works great.
Pump is by Airtex, marine pump # E8251.
Be sure and have a fuel filter before the pump. I got one that uses replaceable filter elements, is made by Spectre, universal fuel filter #2369.
I used 16 gauge wiring thru a 10 amp fuse from a switched (ignition on) source point.

Does "ignition on" mean the electric pump is running when ignition is on and through the mechanical pump?

 

[Ruby67]

I wired it thru a "momentary on" switch in that circuit. So when ign key is on, hold button til you hear it prime up pressure, less than 10 sec, release button, hit gas pedal once as usual, then turn key to start. Works like a charm. Got this info from other hot rod web sites.

 

[66Satellite47]

Good. Your mechanical pump is working harder to produce it's delivery if it can.

 

[Darter6]

I should have made it clear that what I use is on basic street cars that maybe put out 300 HP. Would I use the product that I posted with a multi-carb 700+ HP car with deep gears ? NO.

 

[dan juhasz]

I added this setup to my car a couple of years ago and works great.
Pump is by Airtex, marine pump # E8251.
Be sure and have a fuel filter before the pump. I got one that uses replaceable filter elements, is made by Spectre, universal fuel filter #2369.
I used 16 gauge wiring thru a 10 amp fuse from a switched (ignition on) source point.

That’s exactly what I’m after, I hate to crank the engine that much after it sits for several weeks.

 

[Ruby67]

I was advised to mount the pump as close to the tank as would fit without interference, this seemed the best spot in my car. It can easy be switched back if needed.
I also have a 1/4" return line coming from the fuel filter at the mechanical fuel pump plumbed into the tank thru the fuel sender face plate.
Good comments about additional effort required by the mechanical pump, makes sense.
My car is a cruiser with a '74 360 with a 340 cam fed by a 625 cfm street demon carb. I've run this system for 2 years with no issues so far that I know of.

 

[forphorty]

If you run any kind of "vane" pump then ZERO fuel will pass through when you turn it off, so you need something like a Carter electric pump. Personally I wouldn't bother - the fuel in the carbs may have evaporated but the lines should still be full enough that priming time will be minimal.

A stock mechanical pump will pull fuel through a Holley Blue pump just fine. I ran a street car that way for a long time.

 

[383man]

I would not add another bit of restriction on the suction side of a mechanical pump. Suction resistance is an issue for mechanical pumps. That's just me. I use electric pumps near the fuel tank for HP applications, no mechanical pump.

I do the same as I always run just an electric pump on my muscle cars. Makes more sense to have fuel coming up under pressure then being pulled by vacuum. Fuel under pressure will help fight vapor lock also as fuel under vacuum will vapor lock easier then fuel under pressure. And with this crap pump gas we have today I like having anything that helps fight vapor lock and fuel boiling in the carb bowls. Just what I prefer. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

383, I should have said it the way you did, an electric pump that is pumping up to the mechanical is just fine. The less the mechanical has to suck, the better. Sucking through the restriction of an electric pump that is not "pumping" is harder for the mechanical pump. Suction restriction for mechanical pump, no good.

 

[origcharger]

I would also suggest that if you have an electric choke and are running an electric pump to prime the carb, to wire it in such a way so your choke isn't open before you even start cranking the engine.