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electronic gauge limiters

moparjohnny

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i read that they do not match up well with the old factory gas,temp,amp gauges,you have to buy the newer gauges to match with the electronic plug in on dash or the new circuit board with electronic limiter built on circuit board.opinions and experiences please. thanks
 
I have added small resistors in series with the gas gauge on 2 cars.
After making sure I have full range of sweep on the sending unit wiper, which may require bending the arm and the end stops, I make sure first the low end reads E on the gauge with some movement left for the float to continue down.
That leaves some reserve fuel.
Then, if the gauge wants to go past F when filled, I add a few ohms of resistance in series until the wiper at the top gives a gauge reading that stop exactly at Full.
 
I have added small resistors in series with the gas gauge on 2 cars.
After making sure I have full range of sweep on the sending unit wiper, which may require bending the arm and the end stops, I make sure first the low end reads E on the gauge with some movement left for the float to continue down.
That leaves some reserve fuel.
Then, if the gauge wants to go past F when filled, I add a few ohms of resistance in series until the wiper at the top gives a gauge reading that stop exactly at Full.
what resistors and how are they added to gauges? i have new tank and sending unit to be installed next week,i have adjusted the sending unit sweep to stop at F, was going way past full level,and empty is stopping at E with tab adjustment. i adjusted the end stops on both sides.did not bend the arm.i will add a gallon of gas to new tank and tilt it down towards sending unit for a few hours to see if it leaks from sending unit before i install.
 
I want to say both were happy with a 5 ohm resistor, inserted into the wire in the trunk where it goes through to the tank.
But I had twice run out of gas within a mile of a station, while the needle was not on the line yet.
So when I pulled it, I saw the lower stop could be bent down a bit more , and the gauge would read a little lower.
Then installed, and saw no interference to tank bottom, compared to pickup sock level.
Took back out, and bent top stop up a tiny bit to make sure the whole range of wire windings got used.
Then installed in tank.
Any "beyond full" indication when I filled the tank I reduced by adding the resistor in the wire. I wanted to make sure E meant 1.5 gallons.
 
i read that they do not match up well with the old factory gas,temp,amp gauges,you have to buy the newer gauges to match with the electronic plug in on dash or the new circuit board with electronic limiter built on circuit board.opinions and experiences please. thanks

Have you actually tried a new board with your cluster yet? I have OE gauges and a new board with the reg built on and mine work fine. Make sure your grounds are good.
 
Have you actually tried a new board with your cluster yet? I have OE gauges and a new board with the reg built on and mine work fine. Make sure your grounds are good.
What Big said, I got the board with Regulator and works well with factory gauges.
 
When you guys say "make sure you ground the dash", there are a lot of screws on the back of the gauge cluster. Does it make a difference if I ground anywhere, or do I need to ground on one of the screws that is holding the circuit board on; where the screw is in line with the copper running around the board? I have a new dash circuit board with a built in limiter. Everything works, except the fuel and temp gauge.
 
The threads 5 years old, but usually yes the screws going to the copper grounds to the housing. Then the housing grounds to the dashframe.
 
Can't remember on earliers, but 71/74 get also a wired ground to the cluster either Rallye or Standard.
 
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