Electronic Ignition Advise 66 Coronet

mtbase

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Hi Guys;

I've had my Coronet complete now for 4 years. Thank you to all the help along the way.
I'm back to the well again.

My mission was to make the car just as it rolled off the assembly line, a 1 of 373 cars made, sporting the 500 package, big block, factory 4 speed. The engine is the original 361, all were 2bbl with single exhaust. When I did the engine ( D&D Auto in Easthampton Ma did all the serious work) I had a slightly more aggressive cam installed, in expectation of a 4bbl, but the 2bbl would have to run first...and I felt that dual exhaust couldn't really hurt.

Edelbrock 1406 on it now...runs ok, but not really what I was hoping for. I think that the "66" 383 stock manifold under the carb was probably a poor choice, but this should be more feisty than it is, regardless...right?

My question is: would an electronic ignition be a worthwhile direction?
I let "as it rolled off the assembly line" lead the restoration, so if I go the electronic ignition route, what looks most "stock like"?

Any recommendations and considerations, appreciated.

I'm beyond the burn-outs of younger days, but I do like that thrill of knowing there's power there.
 

Bee1971

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Keep your factory points distributor and convert it over with the Pertronix ignitor for your FACTORY look
 

1967coronet

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Hi Guys;

I've had my Coronet complete now for 4 years. Thank you to all the help along the way.
I'm back to the well again.

My mission was to make the car just as it rolled off the assembly line, a 1 of 373 cars made, sporting the 500 package, big block, factory 4 speed. The engine is the original 361, all were 2bbl with single exhaust. When I did the engine ( D&D Auto in Easthampton Ma did all the serious work) I had a slightly more aggressive cam installed, in expectation of a 4bbl, but the 2bbl would have to run first...and I felt that dual exhaust couldn't really hurt.

Edelbrock 1406 on it now...runs ok, but not really what I was hoping for. I think that the "66" 383 stock manifold under the carb was probably a poor choice, but this should be more feisty than it is, regardless...right?

My question is: would an electronic ignition be a worthwhile direction?
I let "as it rolled off the assembly line" lead the restoration, so if I go the electronic ignition route, what looks most "stock like"?

Any recommendations and considerations, appreciated.

I'm beyond the burn-outs of younger days, but I do like that thrill of knowing there's power there.
Like bee1971 posted Pertronix is a good choice and simple to install.
With points or pertronix you need a good tight distributor.
Nothing wrong with a oem points ignition , they will do the job for the engine you have built.
 

Rusty knuckles

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I chased some weird ignition issues for a bit on my 383. It had a dual point accel distributor. It was just getting aged a lot. Idle was ok but steady state cruising I could see, feel, and hear a random miss intermittently. I changed a condenser, messed with the advance curve, and finally needed to get new points assemblies because the wires were heat damaged and I wasn't convinced they weren't grounding out. I was getting tired of sourcing the accell parts and went electronic ignition. Best thing I could have done. Having good spark really helped my car come alive. A well tuned point distributor would do the same but since cost was roughly equal I went the electronic route. Pertronix is probably your best bet for stock look but I think you could hide an ecu too without issue.
 

HALIFAXHOPS

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nOTHING WRONG WITH A GOOD SET OF POINTS PROVEN SYSTEM. pETRONIX IS A BIT SHARPER SPARK BUT YOU REALLY WONT NOTICE A PERFORMANCE UPGRADE. THAT IS ALL ABOUT THE CURVE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR. OPPS Sorry caps lock. I would leave it points just get a quality older set of them. You can spend a lot on a system and if the curve is not right it is junk. JMO
 

Moparnocar

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Did you bump up timing a little at a time? Should wake it up w a cam. However, you'll need the FBO kit to dial back total timing. I have a good post on timing under my name. I like points " I use nos". Electronic conversion is good, but quality of parts is down
 

HALIFAXHOPS

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To me a fbo plate is not needed, I have 100's of cams. They are a great product. To wake it up if it runs fine a bit faster curve will do it if it is the stock curve.
 

mtbase

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I can put anything together, but the fine tuning is best left to someone other than me. I've had others work on it , with some measure of success. I still feel that there's something more (or something not right). I have a 66 Barracuda with a 273 that would leave the Coronet in the dust.

The coronet runs well...just not right.

I'm gathering that electronic ignition is not really what I'm looking for.....?

Stock points worked well when I was a kid. I'm missing something
 

mtbase

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Since it has been played with...I really don't know
 

Dave6T4

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I have a 1967 R/T with Mopar Performance electronic ignition. This is an old install and has the original MP distributor, not the later pos. I hid the ECU on the front frame rail, under the horns. this allowed me to run the wire harness to the distributor and coil along the alternator harness. Not very noticeable.
 

Durandal25

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I have a 1967 R/T with Mopar Performance electronic ignition. This is an old install and has the original MP distributor, not the later pos. I hid the ECU on the front frame rail, under the horns. this allowed me to run the wire harness to the distributor and coil along the alternator harness. Not very noticeable.


This
 

Durandal25

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I have a 1967 R/T with Mopar Performance electronic ignition. This is an old install and has the original MP distributor, not the later pos. I hid the ECU on the front frame rail, under the horns. this allowed me to run the wire harness to the distributor and coil along the alternator harness. Not very noticeable.

I've done three of these systems and all work awesome.
 

Geoff 2

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I disagree that you will not feel an improvement by switching to E ign. I have done it, seen it, felt it. Particularly noticeable at idle because you can increase the plug gaps; not saying the improvement is solely due to plug gap, probably a combination of more spark energy & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing.
The best bang for the buck is to use the GM 4 pin HEI module, along with a new E dist. You use the p/up coil to trigger the module. Very simple hook up, you will find it on the net. You can mount the module on a heat sink, onto the side of the dist OR mount it anywhere else [ still on the heat sink ] that is convenient. If you use the stock coil, you will need to retain the bal res. An improvement would be use an E core coil like the MSD 8207 [ omit the bal res ] & you can run 0.060" plug gaps. Run 050 gaps with the stock coil.
 

mtbase

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I disagree that you will not feel an improvement by switching to E ign. I have done it, seen it, felt it. Particularly noticeable at idle because you can increase the plug gaps; not saying the improvement is solely due to plug gap, probably a combination of more spark energy & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing.
The best bang for the buck is to use the GM 4 pin HEI module, along with a new E dist. You use the p/up coil to trigger the module. Very simple hook up, you will find it on the net. You can mount the module on a heat sink, onto the side of the dist OR mount it anywhere else [ still on the heat sink ] that is convenient. If you use the stock coil, you will need to retain the bal res. An improvement would be use an E core coil like the MSD 8207 [ omit the bal res ] & you can run 0.060" plug gaps. Run 050 gaps with the stock coil.

Thanks all!
Lots of opinions on this...I was really expecting someone to say "change the intake".
I remember thinking that "what I have was WILD", when I was young...but I also preferred Maryann over Ginger then also.
Are there any final conclusions?
 

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