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Engine Tear Down/Oil System Help?

dodge68charger

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Hey Guys Got a Couple Questions..

Its Been a While Since I’ve Torn Down an Engine For a Rebuild..

Removing Everything From My 383 So I Can Send It Out To My Engine Builder For a Rebuild. He Doesn’t Have The Time To Tear It Apart At The Moment..

Making Sure I Label Everything..
Connecting Rods Are Marked To The Caps.

Anything Else I Should Take Into Consideration?

Also Whats The Best Way To Remove The Threaded Oil Pick Up Tube and Oil Pump Drive Gear?

Its In There Really Really Tight.

Thanks
 
If reusing cam lifters and pushrods they all need to go back to where they came from. Each liffter needs to be with its original push rod and they need to be matched to the lifter bore/cam lobe they came out of. Long needle nose pliers for the pump drive worked for me. And a pair of channel locks or a small pipe wrench on the oil pickup tube. Seems like mine came out easy.

Also main caps need to be marked front to back 1,2,3,4,5 That way they go back to their original position.
 
The oil pump drive gets a layer of heavy varnish below the bushing area which really makes it tough sometimes to remove. Carb cleaner will help cut the deposits and the shaft can be driven out from the bottom (through the oil pump mounting pad). The shaft bushing should be replaced also. It will need to be burnished or reamed to size.
I have found that a stick of gas welding rod (1/8") with a short 90* bend can be used to pull on the gear through the distributor hole with a large screw driver in the top drive slot used to spin the gear to the proper orientation when setting the timing up.
Mike
 
One of these would help you keep it in order. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI9Zvw56aj5QIVBIzICh3odQcaEAQYAiABEgLa_vD_BwE

SUM-900013_xl.jpg
IEO-80-compartments_2048x2048.jpg
 
Thanks Guys..

Just Wondering Where I Can Get a Good Quality Bushing?

Thank You
 
Are you doing this to educate yourself or save a few bucks? The professional that will build this engine normally DISassembles and inspects everything. Other than saying he's busy, you take apart you are opening a reason for him to sat you did something wrong and charge you more money.
Please 'splain................:popcorn2:
 
Also Whats The Best Way To Remove The Threaded Oil Pick Up Tube and Oil Pump Drive Gear?

Its In There Really Really Tight.

Thanks
The pickup tube can be removed with a pipe wrench as close to the block as you can get it. It should break loose easily.

For the distributor drive shaft, have the block turned so the distributor drive shaft points horizontally. Take the oil pump off (that alone might loosen it). Insert a blunt punch into the pump drive hole and knock the drive shaft back towards the distributor hole to unseat it.
 
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The Engine Builder Is a Professional Engine Builder and A Friend Of Mine.

He Built Engines For Some Record Setting Pro Mod Cars Back In The Day n Building It For Free. Just Cost Of Parts

Done 2 Already For Me.. Been Years Since I’ve Torn One Down.

He Said Tear In Down, Lay Everything Out n He’ll Go Everything..

Not My First Tear Down. Theses Dodges Are Different Than Sbc’c Lol
 
check for ridge B4 removing pistons
If you take out plugs make notes and take pics
FT cam or roller?
check the slop on the timing chain B4 removal
cut the filter apart and check
check the bottom of the pan also with a magnet
check the head gaskets, fire rings for detonation signs
throw something lint free over it to keep it clean
 
I don't know any good engine builders, that would say okay, to re-using the cam, and lifters. Just saying...
Probably will be looking at new. I'd also plan on a new (double row roller) timing chain, pistons/rings, and so on.

Personally, I'd suggest pulling the oil pump, but leave it together. Builder will want to inspect it, and go from there.

Main caps have their numbers cast in the bottom, so no need to worry about their location.
 
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