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Fender Tag question for you B-Body Experts

DodgeGuy

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Hello from an avid E-Body enthusiast. I currently have a 1974 Dodge Challenger Rallye, beautiful car!!

Having said that, I've always been a Mopar guy. I've had Chargers, Challengers, Darts, a Duster, a Volare, and a Power Wagon.

I'm currently looking at a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport, that is a Factory 340 car with a factory 4-speed.

I asked the gentleman who is selling the car to take a picture of the fender tag, as I wanted to decode it. It verifies that it is a 340 car (I'll have to verify it's an actual 340 upon visual inspection) and also a factory 4-speed (which I love, my Challenger is a factory 4-speed with the Pistol Grip shifter).

However, something that *bothered* me was that in the decode, it refers to the car as a "Dodge Dart/Demon".

I thought the Demon moniker was dropped after 1973 and switched to "Sport"?

Anything else I should beware of...any advice from the experts? I know quite a bit about the E-body cars, and I know enough to ask the experts when I dont' know. So I'm coming right to the experts here. Thanks for any help!

Here is the decode BTW, I'm not sure all the codes were right because a few of the letters/numbers were hard to see in a phone pic, but I think the vast majority are accurate.

LM29:
Dodge Dart,Demon
Medium
2 Door Sports Hardtop

H3B: 340 240HP(net) 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1973
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA

103699: Sequence number

E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D21: 4 Speed Manual Transmission
JI3: Unknown Exterior Color
F4X9: Trim - Luxury, Vinyl Split Bench Seat, Black
000: Full Door Panels
804: Build Date: August 04
110039: Order number

V4W: Unknown Top Color
U: USA Specifications
A88: Interior Decor Group
B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
C73: 69 only Fold Down Rear Seat
G37L31: Unknown

L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
N76: Coolant Recovery System
R21: AM/FM Radio (5 1/2 Watts)
V68: Longitudinal Stripes, Deleted
V86: Tranverse Stripes, Unknown color

26: 26in Radiator
EN1: End of Sales Codes
 
The M code cover all Darts from 69-74 including Swinger, Demon, Sport. So what is the question really ?:moparsmiley:
 
The M code cover all Darts from 69-74 including Swinger, Demon, Sport. So what is the question really ?:moparsmiley:

I guess I was wondering why the fender tag would say "Dodge Dart/Demon" and not something like "Dodge Dart/Sport"...etc.

Beyond that, I was wondering if the fender tag codes looked OK, if there was anything specific I should look for, be leery of, etc...that's specific to the B-Body Darts, etc.
 
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The fender tag does not say Dodge Dart, Demon, the decoder that was used did. LM29H3 is a 73 Dart Sport 340 which is an A-body.

Neat car. Tag looks good. 340 4-speed = fun!
 
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I guess I was wondering why the fender tag would say "Dodge Dart/Demon" and not something like "Dodge Dart/Sport"...etc.

Beyond that, I was wondering if the fender tag codes looked OK, if there was anything specific I should look for, be leery of, etc...that's specific to the B-Body Darts, etc.

On line decoders, generally, suck as they cannot account for the year to year changes, like the one you just pointed out.
 
Thanks for the help guys!! It's not a bad looking car, it sounds like there is a bit of rust on both rear quarters, and the driver's rear quarter is damaged, but other than that it seems to be solid. According the owner, the floorpans are solid, etc. The paint is obviously faded, etc...but I think I can get this car for around $7000. Any opinions?

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The JI3 you have wrote down as the unknown exterior color looks like it should be JY3. I would image Y3 in 73 would be close to Y3 in 1970 which was a yellow gold/mustard color.
If you like the car, go for it. But remember that 70 and 71 A bodies are the most desirable and bring the most money.
 
The JI3 you have wrote down as the unknown exterior color looks like it should be JY3. I would image Y3 in 73 would be close to Y3 in 1970 which was a yellow gold/mustard color.
If you like the car, go for it. But remember that 70 and 71 A bodies are the most desirable and bring the most money.

Absolutely, it's the same thing with the E-bodies. The 70 and 71 Cudas and Challengers are the big money cars. That's fine by me, my '74 Challenger Rallye gets TONS of compliments, and I love the car, not to mention that it does have considerable value itself.

In any event, what do you think about a $7000 price tag on this Dart? I realize you're just looking at pictures, and going by a fender tag, but I would appreciate any insight. I am very well-versed on the values of E-body cars, but have no idea on the B-Bodies.

I was surprised when I looked at Hagerty and NADA Classic, that it values this car at around $7-8000. That seems way low to me.

A similar year Plymouth Duster booked at around double that...they're basically the same car are they not? Again, forgive me as I'm not knowlegeable with the B-Bodies, other than I like the look of them.
 
The car you are talking about is an A body not a b body. .so you may not find as many opinions here! Maybe someone can point you in the right direction
 
I was surprised when I looked at Hagerty and NADA Classic, that it values this car at around $7-8000. That seems way low to me.

A bodies and B bodies as a whole don't bring E body prices. Just don't go shopping with E body prices on your mind. Your looking at an A body not a B body, but nevertheless refer to my first two sentences.
 
I took this photo in April 2017. Price keeps going up! Its too high right now, unless the car has has upgrades and repairs in The last 2 years.


You know this is an A-body car, right? So why does the title say that you need a B-body fender tag expert?
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JY3 (Light Gold) is the actual color code according to the tag photos. V4W is a white vinyl roof of some kind, probably half or 3/4 or whatever they put on Dart Sports in 73. I'd confirm the engine is actually a 340 and not a 318 or 360. You say you've owned several Mopars including Chargers, Darts and a Duster, yet you don't know the difference between an A and B body?
 
Get the car up on a rack and check for rust with a strong light and an ice pick, especially if the underside has old undercoating or is greasy/dirty. Rust means $$$. I would get more information on the difference on the different A-body models before I spent any money. Why not go over to FABO and check in with them. They could give you more precise info on these cars than you will probably get here. Good luck.
 
I took this photo in April 2017. Price keeps going up! Its too high right now, unless the car has has upgrades and repairs in The last 2 years.


You know this is an A-body car, right? So why does the title say that you need a B-body fender tag expert?
View attachment 769922

Haha...well I guess that shows how little I do know about B-Bodies!! In all seriousness, I have my A-bodies and B-Bodies switched around.

To answer your inbox message, this car is in Ohio now (which is where I live). The current owner did say he purchased it originally in Washington (he's in the military). He's a young kid (early 20s) with a new baby, and just wants to sell the car.

He was advertising it at $8000, claiming he'd take less. However, judging from what you've stated it's definitely not even worth the $7000. I might go take a look at it and see just how badly he wants to unload it....maybe 4-5000?

Thanks for your help on this!
 
Get the car up on a rack and check for rust with a strong light and an ice pick, especially if the underside has old undercoating or is greasy/dirty. Rust means $$$. I would get more information on the difference on the different A-body models before I spent any money. Why not go over to FABO and check in with them. They could give you more precise info on these cars than you will probably get here. Good luck.


Yes, thank you.....like a dumbarse I had my A and B body platforms mixed up!! lol
 
JY3 (Light Gold) is the actual color code according to the tag photos. V4W is a white vinyl roof of some kind, probably half or 3/4 or whatever they put on Dart Sports in 73. I'd confirm the engine is actually a 340 and not a 318 or 360. You say you've owned several Mopars including Chargers, Darts and a Duster, yet you don't know the difference between an A and B body?

To be fair, it was 25 years ago when I owned the majority of my cars, and I no idea of the building platforms....I mentioned it simply to note that I loved the old Mopars.

Thanks for the advice though, being an actual 340 was/is one of my concerns.
 
Nice duster but 7k is way too much for this car.......
 
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