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Fixing factory leaded seams?

mopar4don

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Another topic brought this up and I would like to know how everyone is fixing these areas.
Typically there are 3 areas (on each side of the car) that had the factory lead.
Quarter panel 2 roof,
a-pillar 2 cowl,
and rocker 2 quarter panel.

I thought that it was acceptable to weld the entire seam, and then apply USC ALL METAL to bear steel, then use a skim coat of filler. But apparently ALL METAL has been known to fail.

I would really like to know what most people are doing and if they have had problems with there repair
 
I melted out the lead, welded the seams and used All-Metal just as you described and have had zero issues with them. Going on 4 1/2 years. Did it on the A Pillar / cowl seams, C Pillars, and rocker / quarter seams.
 
I melted out the lead, welded the seams and used All-Metal just as you described and have had zero issues with them. Going on 4 1/2 years. Did it on the A Pillar / cowl seams, C Pillars, and rocker / quarter seams.

Just don't try it on a convertible...
 
When you weld the seam shut, that's O.K., but using anything other than Lead or Tin
won't last. When you "Tin" a piece of sheet metal and then add Lead or Tin, The material
has a physical bond and is very strong. Epoxies don't have that bond! Sure, they work for
a while, but they can't hold on as well. If the joint flexes, the Lead or Tin flexes with it.
 
I would think having weld in framerail connectors and torque boxes helps. I have frame rail connectors and nothing has popped out (69 GTX), the car has not been babied.
 
More flex in the body causing seams to pop?

Every time... I've built/assisted with building quite a few convertibles... On the early attempts we tried welding the seam solid & using assorted fillers, USC All Metal failed, Kitty Hair which is an old fiber reinforced filler failed, Fiberglass with resin failed... I learned to lead, it worked... Tried it on a second car, it worked... Now if I'm working on a vert it will get lead period...
 
I would think having weld in framerail connectors and torque boxes helps.

LMAO !!! They may "help" but short of a cage, things are still going to move. I had connectors and torque boxes welded in on a frame jig. The car is currently on a rotisserie and you cannot imagine the squeeks and pops it makes as its spun - indicating movement. The car has been "leaded" in the appropriate places with zero issues. This is not to say that filler wouldn't work.
 
Now if I'm working on a vert it will get lead period...


Without going in to a big soggy deal, I've got all the stuff to do lead but haven't done it yet. I'll be contacting guys like you when I do! Thanks! I have an original Charger with vinyl peeling off and what's underneath is fiberglass. That's factory but I'm going to lead it anyway. Just another process I'm going to learn and do when the time comes. My restoration friend says that's the way to do it.
 
I would really like to know what most people are doing and if they have had problems with there repair

When I was working in a body shop the body man showed me how to lead and said for restoration that is the way to do it correctly. It's more of a process than using filler so is not used for collision work. Most people who get collision repair are not going to keep a car long enough for it to matter. I have a friend who is a restoration expert and he says lead is the way to go so I'll be doing that.
 
The way cars are built nowadays there is no need for lead or filler of any sort at any panel joints. Modern technologies allow vehicles to be manufactured with very tight tolerances and what would once be a filled joint is now incorporated into a body line, getting either a seal or a quick pass of seam sealer. Been like this for decades now.
 
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