Found this writeup on how to convert your Amp gauge to a Volt meter.

BeepBeepRR

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
8,860
Reaction score
13,575
Location
Atlanta,Ga
Last edited:

davek

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
6,413
Reaction score
6,211
Location
columbia SC
Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is Im going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.
 

BeepBeepRR

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
8,860
Reaction score
13,575
Location
Atlanta,Ga
Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is I'm going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.

This is not something you HAVE to do but just remember there is always a risk of melting the bulkhead connector somewhere in the future. So take it for what it is. The volt gauge modification would be perfect for this MAD modification if you bypass the amp gauge. You could then use a volt meter instead of the amp gauge to know your voltage. Thus the need for the gauge modification.

Even with the new harness. I would suspect the entire load of the vehicle going through that spade connector in the bulk head connector is still a potential for melting the bulkhead block. Even doing the bolt the wires together thing still puts that load going through that spade connector. I often wondered why in the MAD drawings they didn't just drill out the bulkhead block and run the wire straight through and still retain the amp gauge. But now I see why in Drawing B.

They pretty much just bolt the wires together and bypass the amp gauge. Looking at the drawings below they show the power distribution is cut short from the alternator and it goes directly to the starter relay.

This is why they no longer use the amp gauge. You cut out the weak link which is the spade connector.

But the way the MAD drawing shows they do more than just pass the wire through the bulkhead connector. Here is a link to the MAD page on the Amp gauge. Perhaps they word it better than me.

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

amp-ga18.jpg



amp-ga27.jpg
 
Last edited:

davek

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
6,413
Reaction score
6,211
Location
columbia SC
wouldnt you need a splice on engine side if you need to remove engine harness,what to use? A fuse on some kind?
 

BeepBeepRR

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Oct 16, 2016
Messages
8,860
Reaction score
13,575
Location
Atlanta,Ga
wouldnt you need a splice on engine side if you need to remove engine harness,what to use? A fuse on some kind?
If you look at drawing B they use fused links.. You can remove them at the starter relay. But the red and black wires won't be removable at the bulkhead connector. Since they tie into the black splice that feeds the fuse panel, light switch and ignition. You could remove the bolt where you tie the red and black together and pull the red into the engine side. But the black would be an issue.
 

72RoadrunnerGTX

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
5:17 PM
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
1,572
Reaction score
1,097
Location
Shoreline, Washington
Let me ask you this,if all the wires are new why would I want to bypass the alternator gauge? I dont drive the Bee at night.The reason I ask is Im going to switch out my cluster with a restored one in a couple weeks.
In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a voltmeter if you understand it’s function.
 

RM23M9A

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
7:17 PM
Joined
Feb 28, 2020
Messages
425
Reaction score
240
Location
Midwest USA
In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a voltmeter if you understand it’s function.

Yeah Hell just throw Farby Dakota guages in it... lol
 

cj's mopar

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:17 PM
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
166
Reaction score
72
Location
joliet
I have a question about this .
Why can't you leave the stock wiring and amp.meter. Connected and just add a 10ga wire from the alt stud to the starter relay.
The alt will then still charge would it not ?
 

RemCharger

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:17 PM
Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
2,409
Reaction score
1,986
Location
Sask
I have a question about this .
Why can't you leave the stock wiring and amp.meter. Connected and just add a 10ga wire from the alt stud to the starter relay.
The alt will then still charge would it not ?
Yes it would. The Amp gauge would then be disabled.
 

ChargerChad

Active Member
Local time
8:17 PM
Joined
Apr 5, 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
40
Location
Dexter, NY
I like the ammeter because it dives towards “d” whenever my windshield wiper motor is shorting out. Then I know to unplug it so I don’t have to use my wife’s car to jump it next time I want to go for a ride, lol. Seems like if I leave it unplugged a few days it goes a week or two without acting stupid. Rinse and repeat.
 

Jonas Nordstrom

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:17 AM
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
192
Reaction score
78
Location
EU
I did it like this. (With new harness/connectors installed at the same time plus dielectric grease.)
I like how the am-meter really shows whats going on.

68_wiring.jpg
 
Top