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Four Speed Shifter Alignment

Swanny

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Need some help on stock shifter alignment in my '66 Charger. When I bought the car, getting it out of reverse was a chore and 4th gear was hard to engage because the shifter hit the lip of the console. I went through the alignment procedure in the service manual. Now, getting out of reverse is like it should be, but I cannot engage 2nd gear due to console lip interference. 4th gear is now fine.
Is there a fore/aft adjustment I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, guys!
 
I posted in your other thread I am over in Plano btw....if you ever need a first hand look....

Per the manual all lever arms in neutral the edges should be in line on all three arms.....Back in the day they used a tool that slipped over all three...I would love to have one just to have it.....

So couple things here...First do you have the right Hurst unit,rods, and lever plates? Second do you have the right console top plate(I think you do).

Pictures are very helpful....numbers of the hurst unit and one of the three hurst arms has a number on it....The plates on the trans have stampings....

Justin
 
Yes, double check the shifter "plates" alignment to make sure they're all even in neutral (metal shim should fit into the small slots underneath or you can just eyeball them). This makes sure the shifter linkage & rods are all adjusted properly. Next, (or at the same time) make sure you have all the correct bushings/washers/clips in the shifter to take out any unnecessary "slop" in the shifter. If all that is OK, then you can look at maybe "oblonging" some of the column attachment holes and/or slightly moving the top plate of the console around the shifter. fyi- my RR has always had a little contact with the top plate in 3rd gear even though I've done all the other steps.

One other idea.... at least with stock pistol grips there is some "slop" almost built into where he shifter attaches into the linkage. If the shifter hits one way or another you "could" put a small tack weld there to hold it over a little bit in the direction you want it to.
 
IMO, Worn rod ends, loose shift tabs, worn shifter components, worn trans components, etc., can all add up to the need for shifter over travel.
Make sure the whole shifter mechanism and trans adapter behind it is tight and not allowing it to rock fore and aft on you.
Since you've already aligned the shift gate and it appears to operate better for the initial problem, I'd try to shorten just the 1-2 rod maybe 2 turns to see if it helps or reverts back to the previous issue or causes gate interference.
 
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Thanks, guys. I made the shifter alignment tool out of some steel stock and was able to get everything aligned as per the service manual. The trans was rebuilt just prior to my purchase, but that doesn't mean the shifter and/or linkage was also rebuilt. I'll check to make sure everything is tightened down and will try the adjustment on the 1-2 shifter arm when I get back home in a couple of days.
 
Oh, and, this is a stock shifter, not a Hurst unit. I think the stock shifter in these years was an Inland Empire or something like that.
 
Oh, and, this is a stock shifter, not a Hurst unit. I think the stock shifter in these years was an Inland Empire or something like that.
You are correct they used that unit from 66--68 I believe and prior to and after was the Hurst units.....

That being said and as another member stated you might get by to adjust that 1,2 rod a bit....

Where ever and whomever installed it they always get them off a bit or never check for wear....

Best of luck in your ventures
 
Yes, double check the shifter "plates" alignment to make sure they're all even in neutral (metal shim should fit into the small slots underneath or you can just eyeball them). This makes sure the shifter linkage & rods are all adjusted properly. Next, (or at the same time) make sure you have all the correct bushings/washers/clips in the shifter to take out any unnecessary "slop" in the shifter. If all that is OK, then you can look at maybe "oblonging" some of the column attachment holes and/or slightly moving the top plate of the console around the shifter. fyi- my RR has always had a little contact with the top plate in 3rd gear even though I've done all the other steps.

One other idea.... at least with stock pistol grips there is some "slop" almost built into where he shifter attaches into the linkage. If the shifter hits one way or another you "could" put a small tack weld there to hold it over a little bit in the direction you want it to.
Stock pistol grip and slop. Dont know what you are talking about. No slop in mine.
If the throw on the shifter is that long replace the forks on the trans with some for a shorter throw.
 
Stock pistol grip and slop. Dont know what you are talking about. No slop in mine.
If the throw on the shifter is that long replace the forks on the trans with some for a shorter throw.

Well 3B, I've had two pistol grips & both have had "slop" right where the two "prongs" at the bottom of the shifter itself slide into the Hurst linkage. I believe the aftermarket pistol grips bolt on to solve that problem. My issue might be more noticeable since I "think" I've got the longest pistol grip shifter, '70 console B-body...it's like 3' long including bends. I considered tack welding it at one point. With the previous sloppier linkage I would literally bang my knuckles on the dash when shifting into 3rd gear.

To Swanny, if your shifter screws into the linkage (I "think" it does), then your slop would have to be in the shifter arms (bushings/clips), "possibly" in the linkage itself, or "maybe" the linkage bolts holding it to the trans have come loose? I can't think of anything else that could cause it. FYI- if there was NO slop at all, the shifter would probably vibrate like crazy, especially if you have a solid trans mount.
 
Well 3B, I've had two pistol grips & both have had "slop" right where the two "prongs" at the bottom of the shifter itself slide into the Hurst linkage. I believe the aftermarket pistol grips bolt on to solve that problem. My issue might be more noticeable since I "think" I've got the longest pistol grip shifter, '70 console B-body...it's like 3' long including bends. I considered tack welding it at one point. With the previous sloppier linkage I would literally bang my knuckles on the dash when shifting into 3rd gear
That is not anything surprising with the pistol grips....Back in the day they were called "knuckle busters"......Hello ashtray at 3rd gear...
Hence is why people cut the rods back in the day and altered the shift plates.....
 
That is not anything surprising with the pistol grips....Back in the day they were called "knuckle busters"......Hello ashtray at 3rd gear...
Hence is why people cut the rods back in the day and altered the shift plates.....
Oops...sorry to hijack the thread, but do you know how the rods/linkage is modified to reduce the "throw" of the shifter? Lower the holes in the linkage where the rods connect with a cut/weld job???
 
Oops...sorry to hijack the thread, but do you know how the rods/linkage is modified to reduce the "throw" of the shifter? Lower the holes in the linkage where the rods connect with a cut/weld job???
I have a rod I kept that was modified for a b body trans....From a Herb McCandless race built car....Car was called the "BT Express" 64 sport fury...When I find it I will post it up....Just going off what I have seen not what I have done......

I never had those issues...my stuff works as expected....Sometimes when one cuts corners or working off of unknowns or halfway are rebuilding things you end up with problems.....
 
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Well 3B, I've had two pistol grips & both have had "slop" right where the two "prongs" at the bottom of the shifter itself slide into the Hurst linkage. I believe the aftermarket pistol grips bolt on to solve that problem. My issue might be more noticeable since I "think" I've got the longest pistol grip shifter, '70 console B-body...it's like 3' long including bends. I considered tack welding it at one point. With the previous sloppier linkage I would literally bang my knuckles on the dash when shifting into 3rd gear.
Are you refuring to where the handle attaches to the shifter body? If so by 72 the handle bolts to the body. No slop
 
Should be no slop with the push in type, I had one years ago, don't remember any slop.
The reason your hitting the top plate or dash is probably the wrong shifter arms, aftermarket competition plus had shorter arms and would touch the dash, there where quite a few variations for different applications, see pic.
20171006_120210.jpg
 
Been looking for the number for mr gasket trans arms. If you can find a set they had 2 holes. The one closer to the shift fork reduces the shifter lever throw.
Could have walked into any 1970s speed shop and picked them off the wall.
Or if there is room just drill some new holes in the ones you have.
 
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