frame mods

Racers Hangout

  1. moparsquid

    moparsquid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    was thinking of doing a front half and back half of 64 is there any one that makes kits that wont break the bank
     
  2. Mike Gaines

    Mike Gaines Well-Known Member

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    Ha !
     
  3. moparsquid

    moparsquid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    great car wish i could get it ,is that wasco i love that track
     
  4. dvw

    dvw Well-Known Member

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    Why front and back half? All you will do is end up spending a lot of money and end up with a heavy car. Sell the body as a roller and build a tube chassis with skin panels. Might even find a GM A or G body roller and cut the body off. Rebody it. Or just keep it the way it is.
    Doug
     
  5. moparsquid

    moparsquid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    thanks i appreciate all the good advice
     
  6. Budnicks

    Budnicks You Can Just Thank Me Later FBBO Gold Member

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    what are you trying to do with the car ?

    can get a kit basically by wheel base length
    not a lot of stuff MoPar specific, especially for a full chassis

    having someone else fab one for you is gonna' be pricey
    no matter whom you chose

    for lots of the components
    ---------------------------------------
    Chris Alston Chassis Works
    (they can help, call them, they ain't cheap shit either,
    they have most everything you would need too
    )

    QA1 tubular front & back suspensions, shocks etc.
    (I really like their stuff, I may be a tad bias)

    SPC suspension, nice components, esp. UCA's

    Gerst Tubular Suspension
    (seems to accepted well by the MoPar community)

    Chassis Engineering
    (lots of different stuff there too, that universal & not make specific)

    RJ Racecars , lots of prefabbed parts & tabs etc.
    (Rickey Jones NHRA PS/Crew-chief guy, great pieces & components)

    Swartz Performance
    (full under-frame on unibody cars, not so sure about race stuff)

    make you own center portion connect to the
    front & rear aftermarket sub-frames
    (or the whole deal for that matter)
    ----------------------------------------
    & adapt to some of the aftermarket tubular K members
    & sub-frames/front & rear sub-frame
    or to the aftermarket premade front & rear suspensions components
    ----------------------------------------
    bend up a roll-cage/roll bar & other interior cage parts

    -----------------------------------------------------

    my old 49 Ford Pro Gas was a tri-5 kit from, Chris Alston CW
    the only thing Ford was the Org. Steel body
    I had a bunch of different engine combos in it
    including a 528cid Blown Inj. Milodon Hemi...
    I just needed to move the bars or suspension mounting around a tad,
    12pt cage (later a FC cage), engine & trans cross-member mounts back
    or elephant ears & mid plate etc., most of which were in the kit form
    or pieced together stuff, from Chris Alston's shop...
    or someone else I had listed above
    (Chris's shop was close, for about 10 of them years & I knew & raced with his old shop foreman)

    On that drag car, wheel base was the most important part on that specific build
    overall size of the pre-bent bars for the upper cage hoop
    where the bends for the front & rear suspension component were
    it was a 2" x 3" chassis, a bit heavier than a "real tube chassis"
    It was intended to be a 8.50 car
    (outdated by todays std., was good to 7.50 back then)

    I had a Altered tube chassis car already

    the "real" tube chassis tend to be better & a lot more $$$
    & time fab/welding, quite a bit more complicated,
    especially for a Novus, 1st time full "race chassis" build
    (not very good, if you plan to street drive it ever either)

    I've done or helped on quite a few complete tube chassis cars over the years
    mostly late 80's round tube chassis
    into Top Sportsman/Outlaw PS the early 90's to 2007-ish
    stuff has really changed, there's a lot more prefabbed stuff available now...

    It's not make specific
    (not just MoPar, GM or Ford specific or foreign brand crap)
    it's a whole different ballgame, with a "real tube chassis"
    than a basic simple chassis &/or a tied together sub-frames style
    Involves far more serious fab skills are needed, a good outline/plan & design
    going into it...
    An ability to MIG weld, fit pipe "tight", before welding,
    all the assoc. equipment to do so
    & even ability to TIG weld, mandatory in many cases

    Many designs/parts or styles available
    & many depending on how fast you are wanting to go ?
    & what rules & racing sanctioning bodies ?
    say about
    "what you have to have for what ET & MPH"
    I'd highly suggest to review a assoc. rule book 1st

    IMO there's lots of different options,
    & as many opinions too I'm sure
    struts or coil-overs,
    even factory style torsion bars, strut rods etc.
    what kind of shocks will be used
    where to mount stuff & why
    anti-roll or sway bars
    ladders or 4 link,
    watts linkage or panhard rod or track bars
    or even Torque arm/3 link & coil-overs
    or even a leaf springs rear suspension

    lots of ways to go

    one style doesn't fit all

    good luck in what you decide to go with
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
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    • biomedtechguy

      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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      :thumbsup: :bananadance::moparsmiley: :thankyou:
      If I had to do it again...and actually work on my Roadrunner doesn't start until next week, the entire front suspension and K-member all QA1 except for the UCAs which are SPC. I wanted more adjustability as that was the biggest complaint with the old school experienced front end/alignment mechanics: not enough adjustment to get the alignment perfect...well that WON'T be a problem with the SPCs!
      Anyway, if I was buying parts from the start, the ONLY thing I'd do differently is I would consider the Bergman Auto Craft (one of our forum sponsors) version of the SPC UCAs.
      Look at this post, there's a description of what the difference is between the SPC UCAs I bought and "the BAC version" of them.
      At this point I'm going with the SPC UCAs I have had since 11/2018 waiting to be installed.
      https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...uto-craft-introduction.185474/#post-911546868
       
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