Front end suspension adjustment

[Wietse]

Hey all,

Just got all my front suspension components reinstalled, Bilstein shocks, OEM reinforced LCA, OEM Strut rod with new Polyurethane bushings, G-Max upper control arm and stock torsion bar.

For some reason i am unable to get the camber in a negative angle, even with the upper control arm adjusted inwards as far as possible but the rim barely gets vertical.
The ride height also does not meet the "standard" measurement, but looking at the current position of the torsion bar adjustment arm i am not sure i should adjust any further.
Knowing the ride height should be set first of all, current height is approx. 1", while as per manual should be 1-7/8" average.
Could it be that i should re-adjust the torsion bar, so rotating the lca adjustment bushing 1 position in the hexagon further then it currently is to increase the pre-tension?

Any help is highly appreciated!

 

[miller]

Maybe my one eye is going blind...something doesn't look right.
Assuming you know, to adjust ride height, engine/trans has to be in place for the weight, wheels on, and on the ground. Did you get the bars installed right, right and left sides, and clocked right?

 

[Wietse]

Well, so far i only removed the right front assembly, once completed i was going to do the same on the left side i the torsion bar is in same position.
Regarding the clocking, i am not sure now.
I had the upper arm rubber bumper removed and lowered to control arm, even removed the shock bolt again and then installed the torsion bar.
Once the torsion bar was in and everything else back in place the adjusment base plate inside the lca had a small clearance from the adjustment bar.
Clocking it 1 more turn would cause the lca go into "lower" position with pre tension already...not sure that is correct.

 

[miller]

Clocking it 1 more turn would cause the lca go into "lower" position with pre tension already...not sure that is correct.

Hard to say, without being there.
Maybe telling you how I do it, will give ideas. Yes on the upper arm bumper being off, makes it easier to get both arms down. The adjuster bolt should be threaded into the block, only until the ball tip is exposed on the top of the block. The torsion bar receiver, and adjustment arm/cup rotated down against the adjuster bolt.
In that position, the bar's hexes will line up the way they should be, greased, and tap into place. Pretty much it.
Won't be any pre-tension, until weight is put on it. Once bar is in place, I turn the bolt in, just until good contact. Can't do any other adjustment until wheels are on the ground.

 

[FrnkNsteen]

Out of curiosity, what bushings did you use in the UCA's? Did you use standard, or Moog offset? If you used the offset, how did you install them? I know the instructions that come with the are wrong if you are trying to use them to get increased caster. If you inserted them so both push the UCA outwards, it may keep you from pulling them in enough to get negative camber.

 

[Wietse]

@miller: That is exactly how it went in, i can only assume now the torsion bar is installed correct.
To get it moved over to the next position will apply quite some pre-torsion already so that cannot be correct.
But does the adjuster arm appears to be in a normal position? (sticking out above the LCA??)

FrnkNsteen: i used the G-max UCA, which come with their own centred bushings.
No offset in any way.

Could i have mis installed something wrong on the adjustment bolts for the upper arm?
The adjustment runs from the inner position all over the the outer position, so a 180 deg. adjustability.

 

[Wietse]

I've increased the height more, till around 1-3/8" and got the camber just negative. (using a spirit level here)
After i drove the car out of the garage and made a few turns etc. and set it back, finding the height, compared with the other side, a little high so lowered it down again a bit but the camber maintained the same.
I did notice the car stands very odd, but this is most likely caused by 1 side has been rebuild and the other side not yet.
Will kick off and start on the other side and get everything rebuild before worrying about this, hopefully it will make a difference with the car stance balanced.

When looking from the front of the car now the other wheel has a lot of positive camber, which was not the case before.

 

[Wietse]

Well, after removing the driver side components it became obvious what causes the random wheel stance
Just a third of the rubber was left.
Also was thinking ahead and made a picture of the torsion bar ends and how they were installed.

 

[66 Sat]

Just looking at that first photo, the angle of the uca ball joint looks wrong, it should be pretty much vertical - you haven't installed the wrong side by accident? I've recently rebuilt mine and it just doesn't look right.

 

[WileERobby]

Best way is to insert the torsion bar end in the lower arm in its lowest possible position before you move it up to bolt in the knuckle.

 

[Wietse]

See the picture, this is the driver side control arm i just removed and the new control arm.
The angle is in the same direction, i must admit i was confused first before installing it but looking this way it cannot be the wrong one.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Umm why is the brake line on the front side of the caliper? Is that correct, or is that the way those dual piston calipers are made?

 

[66 Sat]

The brake line connects on the back - that's the bleeder on the front. See attached scan from instructions. You had me worried for a moment...I had to go and check!

 

[66 Sat]

See the picture, this is the driver side control arm i just removed and the new control arm.
The angle is in the same direction, i must admit i was confused first before installing it but looking this way it cannot be the wrong one.

View attachment 593966

Yeah no worries, just a thought.

 

[miller]

That is exactly how it went in, i can only assume now the torsion bar is installed correct.

Sounds like it's right. The uca angle at the ball joint looks a little odd to me, too. Guess it's just the part.

 

[Wietse]

Once the UCA is installed the balljoint sits around vertical, if i would install the other one it wil be facing extreme forward.

 

[Wietse]

Finished the other side as well, installed all new bushings and parts.
Once back on the wheels i set the ride height, mainly for the car to sit straight, after raised the car as it was pretty lowered up front.
Once set i ended up with a ride heigh of approx.. 1" (should be 1-7/8" as per manual)
Weird thing i noticed is that the passenger side adjustment bolt for setting height is screwed in around 1/2" more then the driver side.
Does this indicate a difference in tension between both torsion bars? Basically meaning one is "stretched" more right?
Maybe they do need replacing after all.
At least i can first check the harshness of the new suspension and after decide to up the torsion bar size or stay with the same OEM size.

Another thing noticed was that on both sides the LCA bushing was found loose on the pivot shaft.
I did need my hydraulic press to get it in, but after noticed it is not tight and can slide out and rotate by hand.
Once installed i tightened up the pivot shaft nut and that is secured rock solid inside the K-member.

Anyone any advice if i need to worry about this?

Camber is now around straight, towards a slight negative but not much adjustment left for some reason.
I believed this G-max UCA's should provide a bit more adjustability compared to the OEM ones, or do i need to raise/lower the car more to get more adjustment towards negative camber?
Wheels steering i did with a thin wire and set toe slightly inwards.
All in all it still needs a proper alignment but this should do to get the car to the workshop for a proper alignment.

Also did slap my new OEM style XHD rear leafs in POR15 on top of the normal coat.
Not sure yet when i will start replacing the rear end yet, if i have time i might end up doing this somewhere at the end of the week i hope.

 

[Wietse]

I've adjusted the ride height up more to approx.. 1-5/8", both UCA's are set inward maximum to go for negative camber but still are border lining on vertical/positive camber.

Does anyone has any suggestions what else i could do/check?
Or any mistakes i could have made installing/adjusting?

 

[miller]

Another thing noticed was that on both sides the LCA bushing was found loose on the pivot shaft.
I did need my hydraulic press to get it in, but after noticed it is not tight and can slide out and rotate by hand.
Once installed i tightened up the pivot shaft nut and that is secured rock solid inside the K-member.

There's another post on the same issue.

Not sure what to tell you on the torsion bars. All the ones I've messed with, never had one wore out.
Maybe this will help some, on your pivot shafts. You should not tighten them, but only bottom out the nuts. They get tightened after the car, and weight, is on the ground.
Ride height...get a basic adjustment, then 'bounce' the front of the car up and down, a few times. That lets all the parts settle in. Then do the final adjustment. Make sure you have the correct amount of air pressure, in all four tires!

 

[Wietse]

Thx Miller,

All your advices were followed up as i read about this on the forum.
I moved the car over to another spot where the car sits perfect horizontal on the spirit level.
Now both wheels show a slight negative camber, but with the UCA's maxed out, i would expect there will be some adjustability left.

Torsion bar difference remains, then again being the passenger side needing most pre-tension this could be caused by engine torsion at hard launches i guess.
For now no issues but guessing i will be buying new ones at some point.