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Fuel demand what fuel pump

19 69 GTX

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Ok really wanting to run a mechanical pump. Question is what one will be enough. I'm coverting to a 3/8 sending unit and will have around 615 hp in my 69 gtx 512 street car. Probably won't see full throttle pulls longer than 15 seconds. Can a stock pump handle it or would I need say a Carter, Hollet or a Eddy pump. No one has the Eddy pump which I like because it has 3/8 inlets and outlets.
 
The Carter Street/Strip pump has been great for me. We have a 505" stroker that makes 600 hp. Never has nosed over. Been 11.1's @ 121 mph @ 3,700 lbs.
 
Well everyone is out of mechanical pumps. Any electric pump recommendations
 
I just bought my second Trick Fuel 140gph/regulator combo from Summit.
Liked the first one, so I bought another for a second car.
 
There's this..........
Holley 12-440-11 Mechanical Fuel Pump 110 GPH BB Chrysler - Winners Circle

upload_2022-3-2_9-18-34.png
 
IMO.....perhaps the question to ask is: what does my fuel delivery system require (carburetor or EFI) both in volume AND pressures OR a more quantifiable term of pounds per hour, at the maximum engine operating conditions. How the engine system produces its horsepower (thru displacement, stroker, compression ratio, cam etc) not with standing but total fuel consumption at the desired condition. This number should be calculatable factoring in the volumetric efficiency of the engine and its operating point plus a 10% - 15% safety factor. There is no hard line number or "one size fits all" solution but each individual application should be determined by the vehicle's owner or engine builder for the application at hand. Not guessing if Holley #xxxxx or Carter pump xxxxxx will perform to expectations but calculations will determine specific requirements. Just a few additional talking points to consider.....
BOB RENTON
 
Myself I never waste my time with a mech fuel pump on my hotrod. The electric pump is better in everyway when fuel is being pushed up to the carb and not pulled under a vacuum. Electric helps fight vapor lock also much better then a mech pump so if you get real hot summers and run pump gas as I do the electric is much better. We get some very hot humid days in Md where I am and that along with me running pump gas is one reason I will always run electric pumps. And you never have to worry about the fuel pump rod on a bigblock. Ron
 
Myself I never waste my time with a mech fuel pump on my hotrod. The electric pump is better in everyway when fuel is being pushed up to the carb and not pulled under a vacuum. Electric helps fight vapor lock also much better then a mech pump so if you get real hot summers and run pump gas as I do the electric is much better. We get some very hot humid days in Md where I am and that along with me running pump gas is one reason I will always run electric pumps. And you never have to worry about the fuel pump rod on a bigblock. Ron

Going with electric just trying to decide what one. As far as new fuel line from pump to regulator on firewall what do most people run a hard line or steel braided runner hose. What's best way to mount pump just drill into frame
 
Going with electric just trying to decide what one. As far as new fuel line from pump to regulator on firewall what do most people run a hard line or steel braided runner hose. What's best way to mount pump just drill into frame

Its best to mount pump lower then gas tank if you can and as close to the tank as you can. Also today they make in the tank electric pumps for carb cars which is actually the best way to do it but I have run Holley pumps since the 70's with no problems at all. Myself I run the Holley black pump and regulator. My pump is mounted in front of my stock gas tank as its about even with the tank and has never given me any problems mounted there. Many just run braided line from the tank to pump and up to the front of the car. Myself I run a braided line from my tank to the filter and to my pump. Then I ran 3/8 aluminum line up to the front but I flare the end of the aluminum line and use a hose clamp on the braided hose. I dont use A-N fittings on aluminum line because they can crack the line after time so where my 3/8 aluminum line hooks to the braided line I flare it and use a hose clamp. If I was doing it again I most likely would just run braided line all the way with all A-N fittings but I ran my 3/8 aluminum line in place of the stock 5/16 line about 18 years ago and its still working good. Car dont starve for fuel and has run 10.70's @ 125 with this setup and my 850 carb. Good luck , Ron
 
Its best to mount pump lower then gas tank if you can and as close to the tank as you can. Also today they make in the tank electric pumps for carb cars which is actually the best way to do it but I have run Holley pumps since the 70's with no problems at all. Myself I run the Holley black pump and regulator. My pump is mounted in front of my stock gas tank as its about even with the tank and has never given me any problems mounted there. Many just run braided line from the tank to pump and up to the front of the car. Myself I run a braided line from my tank to the filter and to my pump. Then I ran 3/8 aluminum line up to the front but I flare the end of the aluminum line and use a hose clamp on the braided hose. I dont use A-N fittings on aluminum line because they can crack the line after time so where my 3/8 aluminum line hooks to the braided line I flare it and use a hose clamp. If I was doing it again I most likely would just run braided line all the way with all A-N fittings but I ran my 3/8 aluminum line in place of the stock 5/16 line about 18 years ago and its still working good. Car dont starve for fuel and has run 10.70's @ 125 with this setup and my 850 carb. Good luck , Ron

Sounds good thanks
 
I have a setup close to Ron. Braided line out of tank to a filter then to a Holley black pump mounted low and close to tank, then braided all the way up to regulator on inner fender well. No problems feeding two 750 dp holleys.
 
I also wanted to run a mechanical pump because i'm not fond of the whining sound on a street car . Honestly i wasn't sure that it would work but it seems to do fine. Car is 493 c.i., 629 h.p. street car. I ran #8 an Summit PTFE braided line from the tank. Van's auto sells a 1/2" pick up for stock style tanks for my 64'. I didn't use any 90 degree fittings at all and used the least amount of 45's as i could. For the pump i have a Carter strip super pump with a dead head regulator and a gauge next to the carb ( #6 an lines from the regulator to the 850 Holley). I worried about the smaller 1/4" inlet/ outlet fitting sizes of the Carter pump so i modifies the inlet by welding on a 1/2" fitting and tapped the outlet to 3/8". This was an idea i got from a guy that used to run Clay Smith pumps on his roundy round car because they were not allowed to run electric pumps . He did also say that the Clay Smith pump bodies are really too big and hit the block. Doing this mod. must have messed with the pump internally because it was putting out 12 p.s.i.. I replaced it was a regular Carter strip super pump and regulated it down. In full disclosure i haven't driven this car in summer heat yet and don't know if i'll have any problems with vapor lock. If i have any issues i will go directly to a electric pump with by-pass regulator and return line, wanted to try this first.
 
Its best to mount pump lower then gas tank if you can and as close to the tank as you can. Also today they make in the tank electric pumps for carb cars which is actually the best way to do it but I have run Holley pumps since the 70's with no problems at all. Myself I run the Holley black pump and regulator. My pump is mounted in front of my stock gas tank as its about even with the tank and has never given me any problems mounted there. Many just run braided line from the tank to pump and up to the front of the car. Myself I run a braided line from my tank to the filter and to my pump. Then I ran 3/8 aluminum line up to the front but I flare the end of the aluminum line and use a hose clamp on the braided hose. I dont use A-N fittings on aluminum line because they can crack the line after time so where my 3/8 aluminum line hooks to the braided line I flare it and use a hose clamp. If I was doing it again I most likely would just run braided line all the way with all A-N fittings but I ran my 3/8 aluminum line in place of the stock 5/16 line about 18 years ago and its still working good. Car dont starve for fuel and has run 10.70's @ 125 with this setup and my 850 carb. Good luck , Ron
I am I the process of replacing a car-length of braided line (rubber inside) that leaks like a sieve, with a 1/2 aluminum line, with A/ N fittings, to duplicate the setup (1/2 aluminum, a/n) that has lasted for thirty years on my other car. Also replacing a leaking holley blue, with a trick flow 140, again like on my other car.
The pump isn't quiet, or loud, just average, but I can't hear it when the engine is running.
 
I am I the process of replacing a car-length of braided line (rubber inside) that leaks like a sieve, with a 1/2 aluminum line, with A/ N fittings, to duplicate the setup (1/2 aluminum, a/n) that has lasted for thirty years on my other car. Also replacing a leaking holley blue, with a trick flow 140, again like on my other car.
The pump isn't quiet, or loud, just average, but I can't hear it when the engine is running.

Are you sure you want to use aluminum tubing (what grade)? Aluminium is softer than steel alloy tubing, subject to fatigue failure due to vibration and impact damage. A-N fittings are great but so is compression fittings (Swag Loc, or Parker Hanifin or equal). Don't think Aluminum tubing would be SAE and Government allowable???? for safety regulations?? Just thinking out loud....
BOB RENTON
 
Are you sure you want to use aluminum tubing (what grade)? Aluminium is softer than steel alloy tubing, subject to fatigue failure due to vibration and impact damage. A-N fittings are great but so is compression fittings (Swag Loc, or Parker Hanifin or equal). Don't think Aluminum tubing would be SAE and Government allowable???? for safety regulations?? Just thinking out loud....
BOB RENTON
Probably true... but the 1/2 aluminum fuel line I used on my car hasn't leaked a drop in thirty years. Sure can't say that about the stainless braided rubber hose I have been replacing every couple years. Using nothing but teflon hose for flexible connections from now on. I have finally learned my lesson.

20220317_144329.jpg
 
Going with electric just trying to decide what one. As far as new fuel line from pump to regulator on firewall what do most people run a hard line or steel braided runner hose. What's best way to mount pump just drill into frame
I've had a Holley Georotor pump on my car for 10 years now. It's quieter than the typical vane type pumps, albeit a little more $$. But I like it.
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I used Aeromotive products on both of my cars. The SS series is good to 750 hp. My 65 has 750 hp and the fuel system works fine. Like Bob Renton suggested, I went through the calcs previously to estimate the fuel required for 750 hp and the Aeromotive system meets the requirements. I use -8 braided hose from the tank to the pump and from the pump forward. I also used a bypass regulator and -8 return line rather than dead heading. The pump is mounted on the frame rail near the tank. I used a 1/2” pickup in the stock tank. The pump makes some noise but I don’t hear it once the car is running.
B235E11D-23EA-4289-8208-67CB97A1A7B5.jpeg
 
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I used Aeromotive products on both of my cars. The SS series is good to 750 hp. My 65 has 750 hp and the fuel system works fine. Like Bob Renton suggested, I went through the calcs previously to estimate the fuel required for 750 hp and the Aeromotive system meets the requirements. I use -8 braided hose from the tank to the pump and from the pump forward. I also have a -8 return line rather than dead heading. The pump is mounted on the frame rail near the tank. I used a 1/2” pickup in the stock tank. The pump makes some noise but I don’t hear it once the car is running.
View attachment 1256649
How is your return line routed? Out of one of the pressure sides of the regulator?
 
The schematic shown is for a dead head system. A return style regulator is needed for a return system.
 
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